Wear patch / chafe protection

[ab1974 1]

I have a couple of spots on the boat where I know I am either going to get or may well get some chafe on the paintwork from ropes.

 

Just before the boat went into the water I put some 3M mylar clear self adhesive plastic (same stuff used on the bonnet of cars to protect from stone chips) along some obvious chafe areas but this stuff is OK to protect against minor chafe but wont hold out long term.

 

Two examples than spring to mind are where the mooring lines fo over the painted toe rail and the other is where the mainsheet touches to top of the coming when it is eased out. I already have wear on the coming and want to put something on it to protect it. Trouble is it is wearing right it the radius.

 

I was thinking something like these:

 

http://www.nowearguard.com/index.html

 

What do you guys use use? Would I be able to mold / bend some 0.1 or 0.3mm stainless sheet?

[Murky 1]

Stainless is the old standby and will never let you down.

 

Some are moulding up carbon (or kevlar/carbon) strips as well. I think there was a thread here but it is probably in the archives by now - talk nicely to Rigger and he may be able to dust it off and resurrect it to Tech Talk, where it probably belongs anyway. Mike Pearce Boat Builders did a set for the new 88 a couple of years back and have since supplied them for a few other 88s.

 

Finally I think Cadillac Plastics can supply a range of self-adhesive tapes that are probably a bit gruntier than what you are using. My own experience is that any tape-type product will eventually get smudged off or cut through right when you don't need it (e.g. a long heavy-airs run or reach where everything rubs on the same spot for 10 or 12 hours).

 

Let us know how you get on.

[TimW 1]

We would use some PTFE release tape and stick it in ther area of the rubstrip.

 

Then layup a Kevlar or Spectra patch slightly bigger than you want. One layer is generally enough.

 

After it dries you can cut it with sharp scissors so all the edges and corners are nice.

 

Then remove the PTFE release tape.

 

The rub strip can either be epoxied or sika'd in place.

[ab1974 1]

Thanks guys, they were my two broad options.

 

Tim - any chance you could explain the steps in more detail. I have very limited fiberglassing (using only glass not kevlar) experience.

 

Do you form the patch in the position the rubbing strip is to go? Do you form the outline out of the release tape............? Confused

[TimW 1]

Lets say you are going to put a rub strip over the painted piece of toerail you talk about.

 

I'm not sure how long it needs to be , but lets say you decide to make the finished detail a 150mm x 50mm wide kevlar rub strip with say a 10mm radius on each corner.

 

draw out what you want to end up with on a piece of paper to use as a template.

 

put the template on the toerail in the location you want it, and mark around the edges an additional (say) 50mm.

 

this represents the area you will cover in PTFE release film.

 

You apply that to the toerail, so that the Kevlar patch will easily release, and the rub strip will be the exact same shape as the toerail.

 

then on top of the PTFE draw around your pattern with a Sharpie (permanent marker).

 

 

Cut the Kevlar piece around 170 x 70 or so to allow for trimming.

 

apply some resin with a brush, put the kevlar (dry) on top, and dab with the brush until its wet out.

You can use a thin layer of glass over the kevlar if you want.

 

Then you can peelply it (or leave shiny). We would roll it with a laminating roller.

 

After the resin has dry you can pop off the rub strip,

 

the marker will have left the exact shape you want on the inside of your rub strip so you can just cut it out to the exact shape with scissors. (it pays to do this before the resin gets super hard)

 

then remove the ptfe tape,

 

and glue your rub strip in place.

 

quick tidy, job done.

 

In some cases you may want to clear finish the rubstrip, in which case you would do that as soon as you have cut it out to shape.

[ab1974 1]

Tim, thats a great reply, thanks.

 

Any pros and cons for using kevlar / spectra / carbon for this job?

 

Say I wanted to make it smooth would I use peel ply? Is it the same peel ply used with fiberglass? When you say if I leave it shiny or use peel ply what will it look like with Peel Ply? What do I use as a clear coat - normal resin?

 

Do I use normal 4:1 resin with the kevlar / spectra / carbon?

 

Final two questions - where is the best place to buy a small quantity of kevlar / spectra / carbon matting and PTFE release film?

[Guest]

Tim, thats a great reply, thanks.

What he said, I've wanted to know that myself. Thanks Tim

[TimW 1]

Tim, thats a great reply, thanks.

 

Any pros and cons for using kevlar / spectra / carbon for this job?

 

Say I wanted to make it smooth would I use peel ply? Is it the same peel ply used with fiberglass? When you say if I leave it shiny or use peel ply what will it look like with Peel Ply? What do I use as a clear coat - normal resin?

 

Do I use normal 4:1 resin with the kevlar / spectra / carbon?

 

Final two questions - where is the best place to buy a small quantity of kevlar / spectra / carbon matting and PTFE release film?

 

As a rub strip your choices are:

 

either Kevlar, Spectra or Innegra, as all these fibres will not wear through.

Kevlar has a nasty habit of fluffing up if you need to sand it.

 

Neither Carbon nor Glass is "tough" enough to do the job you are wanting here.

 

 

Peelply will leave the surface "matt" and it will easily mark.

 

By Shiny I just meant raw resin, which in all honesty will degrade in the UV.

 

By clear, I mean you apply a few coats of UV inhibited clear finish Polyurethane.

 

 

The Epoxy Resin you use will be mixed at whatever ratio it says on its label of instructions (generally 4:1 or 5:1)

 

I think you can buy off:

SP High Modulus,

Burnsco ??

Sailors Corner ??

 

They may not stock the PTFE release film.

 

I don't mind putting together a kit of what you will need.

[Murky 1]

I don't mind putting together a kit of what you will need.

Fantastic offer. May as well assemble your first 20 kits at once, and make a mini video demonstrating what you have explained above, set up a website where people can pay by credit card and you will have a nice little sideline earner. No kidding, you could probably get your first half-dozen orders in the bag by morning tea time today. And thanks for sharing your expertise in this way.

[ab1974 1]

Thanks again Tim, great advice.

 

I will PM you but I think Murky has a great idea there!

[TimW 1]

I don't mind doing one on AB's boat, then I'll help you do the 2nd, then I can leave you to it !

 

Anyone else interested could come watch?

[SloopJohnB 322]

You could start a DYI pyramid scheme here, Tim.