Jon 360 Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 I bit the bullet 3 years ago and it was the best choice I have ever made re boats We had a 18yr old Volvo 2003T that was hard to start and had a smoking disorder. I wanted to stay with a named brand for resale one day and a new Volvo 40d and saildrive fitted strait in with front mount adapters and a little glassing of the front of the bed. Did the job myself in 7 days from picking up the motor to commissioning . Getting them to commission it gave me full warranty. Have now clocked up over 700hrs and never missed a beat Also the Volvo is heaps quieter than a Yanmar, Have had 3 different lots of friends onboard over the last 3 years that have yanmars and they all ask if the engine is running. Link to post Share on other sites
Cameron 74 Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Beta is a Kubota conversion so parts and service should be no problem. Cameron, why do you say that resale would be better on a Volvo or Yanmar? Beta are relatively unknown here at the moment, but seem to be making steady sales and plenty of satisfied overseas customers. List pricing between Volvo and Beta is not streets apart. It's just that EVERYONE has heard of Volvo or Yanmar. I hadn't heard of Beta previously (although I have heard about Kubota) If I was buying a secondhand boat I would definately have a preference for a "name" brand. When pricing is "not streets apart" why would you choose a brand that is "relatively unknown" here ? Interestingly when Steve brought Hard Labour about 18 years ago his preference would have been for a Yanmar. However if you asked him now I'd pick he would choose a Volvo. Why ? Nothing major going wrong plus numerous friends with Yanmars having to rebuild or replace motors. Hard Labour has the Volvo 2002 18hp (same as the MRX's...and we all know how they get hammered). Other factors are the Saildrive looks more hydrodynamic plus it's greater stroke / cubic capacity over the equivalent Yanmar means it has much more torque and has proven to motor faster while using less diesel compared to sisterships. Also alot of Yanmars have a reduction for reverse gear meaning you have to rev them to go anywhere backwards. The Volvo has the same gearing in either direction. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 I think a cruising boat has a slightly different criteria. Because Volvo and Yanmar are both known and popular brands they are well represented by service agents in most any country. Admittedly the Volvo agent in Dumfakistan may not have intimate knowledge of your particular model but they will have quality advice and support from their parent franchise at the end of the phone and this can make a huge difference in repair time, parts procurement etc. When I was Volvo rep in Fiji I was able to order parts (the right part, not guess work) and have it in the shipping system within a few hours. If I encountered an oddball problem I could call the parent company service manager and he would drop everything to help me. Same goes for Yanmar. I don't know of a single Beta agent anywhere in the South Pacific. Link to post Share on other sites
Absolution 7 Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 I know what you are saying Cameron but in NZ I don't really think most yacht buyers expect to get the choice. Once you have found a boat that ticks your boxes for size/class/condition/systems/sail wardrobe etc I think most buyer will be happy with any "proper" marine engine with low-hours that has been properly installed and maintained. Will the brand of engine change what someone is prepared to buy/sell the boat for? Probably not. Personally I chose a new Beta engine for Fineline because I have a lot of confidence in kubota based engines, I belive that the parts are reasonably priced and they are well supported by Andy @ The Engine Room. Given the choice I think most of us would rather have a new engine that is a known quanity rather than an old "brand name" engine with lots of unknowns around its maintenance and operating hours etc. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 I tend to agree with Fineline. People are a lot more aware there are a lot more options than the big names these days so tend to be less wary/more happier with the knot so known names. Besides many know the crossover between a lot is huge and getting more so. But then Pete does have a point...to a point. Knot much you can't get to anywhere in 3-4 days on DHL/Fedex these days after one phone call. So I'd be thinking if extended distance cruzing is the target go a name for the reasons Pete said but if just local go Bada maybe. Admittedly the Volvo agent in Dumfakistan may not have intimate knowledge of your particular model That's only because it's his part time job. He spends most of his time sending out 'I loves and want to marry you' emails to the world under the moniker of Sasha. He's also the man to see about Camel rustling. Link to post Share on other sites
Bogan 8 Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Like I said, I'm keeping the Volvo 120 saildrive and gearbox. Drums of time must have been fitted with a second hand engine - present beast is a Volvo MD7. Gearbox and drive is in much better nick than the engine. "Relatively unknown" because they only recently signed up an NZ distributor. But the distributor is keen, likes the engines, and seems to be pretty well regarded. I'd be very surprised if they stay unknown for long. Apple Ipods were relatively unknown until 2002.... Link to post Share on other sites
Farrari 4 Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Like I said, I'm keeping the Volvo 120 saildrive and gearbox. Drums of time must have been fitted with a second hand engine - present beast is a Volvo MD7. Gearbox and drive is in much better nick than the engine. Just a heads up you may want to get your saildrive looked at when you replace the motor. Apparently they are well know for twisting the spline on the input shaft as the old ones like mine were directly connected. Mine was modified with a rubberised coupling to take the shock load much like the latter versions. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Like I said, I'm keeping the Volvo 120 saildrive and gearbox. Drums of time must have been fitted with a second hand engine - present beast is a Volvo MD7. Gearbox and drive is in much better nick than the engine. "Relatively unknown" because they only recently signed up an NZ distributor. But the distributor is keen, likes the engines, and seems to be pretty well regarded. I'd be very surprised if they stay unknown for long. Apple Ipods were relatively unknown until 2002.... Cough cough, I thought this was Bimini Babe's thread. My responses were pertinent to those who cruise or intend to beyond NZ waters. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 My Volvo 2002 18 HP hasn't missed a beat in 11 years in my Farr 1020 apart for a fuel pump failure. The new fuel pump was in stock though. It's got about 2000 hours on it now. I get great support from Ovlov for general service parts for preventative maintenance. Gaskets, inpellors, zincs, belts etc. Just changed the shaft seals in the sail drive last weekend and they always hold all these parts in stock. Zincs are held in stock by most hard stand operators in NZ, probably around the world as well. Probably the same for Yanmar. But I reckon the Volvo is hard to go past. A $20 part becomes a $200 exercise if you are remote location with a little known brand. Link to post Share on other sites
smithy09 50 Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 Apparenly it's still at the boat builders???!!! VERY odd clue... I'm guessing it's probably not another boat though. and the whole bloody issue was driven by a wheel ah humm tiddy bum , ah humm tiddy bum ah hummmmmm I know that song. Very rude indeed. BB has been quiet though so maybe you are onto something?? Link to post Share on other sites
smithy09 50 Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 Volvo parts dearer than Yanmar parts???? Really???? Hmmm ... wouldn't have thought so. You may want to have a chat with Smithy09 about the prices of Yanmar parts - he's just recently had an eye-opening experience. Un-ferkin-believable prices for common spares. Also won't sell you a service manual as Grinna says.. Not impressed! Engine is still going well though (touches wood) with 1700 odd hours on it if I remember right. Link to post Share on other sites
Grinna 2 Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 Engine is still going well though (touches wood) with 1700 odd hours on it if I remember right. Yeah, the engine goes well, but it does use a bit of rum from time to time though Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 Yeah, the engine goes well, but it does use a bit of rum from time to time though Yeah but you might be able to get away with feeding her the lower quality Rum. Would she notice?? Link to post Share on other sites
Bogan 8 Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 Also won't sell you a service manual as Grinna says Andy sent me a service manual for the Beta when I was just looking. Link to post Share on other sites
Bimini Babe 0 Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 Think I've now narrowed it down to either a Beta or a Nanni. Prices seem much-of-a-muchness when you consider the extras, i.e. Nannis you need to pay extra for the gearbox linkup and custom engine feet that come as standard on the Beta, but with Betas you need to pay extra for a bigger alternator and gauges that come as standard on a Nanni. So in the end it could theoretically come down to which colour I like best... That said... while I've been comparing 20hps, Beta also do a 25hp that is only a couple hundred bucks more than the smaller motor, and only about 10kg heavier. Would there be much sense in taking the extra 5hp, being that we're taking the boat offshore, and the more power we can have the better? Or would it really be overkill on a 29ft boat? Link to post Share on other sites
Farrari 4 Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 That said... while I've been comparing 20hps, Beta also do a 25hp that is only a couple hundred bucks more than the smaller motor, and only about 10kg heavier. Would there be much sense in taking the extra 5hp, being that we're taking the boat offshore, and the more power we can have the better? Or would it really be overkill on a 29ft boat? Having too big a motor can sometimes be just as bad as having a too smaller one. A diesel motor needs to be worked hard on a semi regular basis because otherwise the bores glaze up and bad things start to happen. Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Pope 243 Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Go for the extra 5hp, remember that all things attached suck Hp. If you have a large alternator (90 /100 amps) (or fridge comp) (or water maker) that will drop you down to a nominal 20/22 hp when it is charging, it will come back up after raising the batteries to their normal level. Remember that 20 or 25 Hp is only at full revs (3600) when you are cruising maybe around 2500 rpm and not at full revs you will be only using about 15Hp / 18Hp. That extra 5 Hp could make all the difference between being able to push the current when entering a coral reef pass in the pacific or not. Re the glazing, if operated correctly that shouldn't be a problem. Link to post Share on other sites
rigger 47 Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 check the if you will need to replace shaft, prop ....... if you go with more HP Link to post Share on other sites
Atom Ant 0 Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Agreed on the extra hp. provided you are using it then grab it. I have a Kubota (which is what Beat or a Nanni started life as) 22hp. Well it's rated as 27hp peak and 22 hp continuous. When I got the boat it had a 40 amp alternator on it and I have since changed it to a 80 amp alternator. Top speed is premanently reduced by about .2 of a knot and when the battery is low the top end speed is noticeably reduced by around 1.5 knots. Not normally a problem though, but provided your gearing is ok and prop pitch/diameter etc is right then grab the extra 5 hp. Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Ha, that reminds me AA. Had a guy that I repowered his engine from 120 to 180Hp and then he replaced his 65A Alt to a 220A Alt. I was thinking, well that blew your xtra Hp. Link to post Share on other sites
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