10ft mini musto skiff

[Guest]

www.lightskiff.de

well i think that answers my fordeck question...

thanks M.C, maybe next saturday before racing?

[Guest]

yet another change of plans

was studying the production 10ft musto and i have decided that a starling rig is too small. maybe a splash rig or a 3.7 rig with 500-ish-mm cut off the top??

[Guest]

yet another change of plans

was studying the production 10ft musto and i have decided that a starling rig is too small. maybe a splash rig or a 3.7 rig with 500-ish-mm cut off the top??

 

You really need a carbon rig. A 3.7 rig would be perfect and there are plenty of sails around to cut down to get started, Or you may get away with a moth rig with extra support and a bolt rope track.

Starling mast will last all of 5 minutes.

 

You would save a lot of time and money modifying a 3.7 and be a lot faster. Or just race it in standard form against other 3.7's and have some resale value.

[Guest]

yes, i did think about buying a 3.7 and putting a genny on it but building my own yacht would be much better and i really like the musto design but a)cant afford a real one, and b)im too light for a full size musto. and 10ft is about the right size for me to be able to get it on and off the trailer by myself and be able to drag it up and down the beach alone.

[Guest]

build starts tomorrow

[Guest]

custom wood building frames all ready to be cut out tomorrow

[Guest]

all frames cut, going to be faired with the power plane tomorrow. now i just need to find some lumber for the building stock

[Guest]

here is a custom vang i am going to need to make for the modded 3.7 rig.

red dots equal pivot points and the red cross is a double hinged gooseneck

[grant 40]

couldn't you have a fixed length rod between the mast and boom with your gooseneck on the mast and a sliding track along the boom, where the purchase would pull the track back towards the mast?

[Guest]

bt the upward pull on the boom would push the car along the track towards the mast by itself, unless the vang rope goes back aft along the boom then for'ard

[grant 40]

bt the upward pull on the boom would push the car along the track towards the mast by itself, unless the vang rope goes back aft along the boom then for'ard

 

ahh, just had another look at your drawing, I was assuming the boom was roughly at right angles to the mast, if your boom is angle upwards that change the geometry somewhat.

 

Although at some point along the boom the fixed rod would work. If you drew a curve centered on the vang attachment to the mast that touched the boom at the boom most horizontal point (maximum vang tension) one the side nearest the mast the vang would be ineffective (as you noted) but would work on the outer side if where the curve touches the boom.

 

if that makes any sense

 

as to your original drawing, i just wonder whether your pivot length (between the red + and the red dot) has enough travel to give the boom as much movement as you would want.

 

great work anyway

[Marshy 30]

Thats how 49er vangs are. Just make sure you put a set of "Chicken Stays" or lower lower stays to stop the rig popping where the Vang pushes against the mast, Dont underestimate how much the vang will try push the rig forwards upwind, or sideways power reaching...

[Guest]

here is where i am today. the frames still need to have a common point measured and cut but here they are resting on the building stock

[DrWatson 372]

I'm TOTALLY digging this thread

 

I can't wait to see the finished thing.

[Guest]

Great to see a bit of just do it kiwi attitude. keep the pics coming Jordan.

If you get stuck anywhere just pm me or post the questions here

[w44vi 17]

Its good to see someone who wants to try something different and not just pay lip service to it

Keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming

[Guest Dry Reach]

couldn't you have a fixed length rod between the mast and boom with your gooseneck on the mast and a sliding track along the boom, where the purchase would pull the track back towards the mast?

 

Yip like the Bethwaite boats!. the lever is a sail wrecker & weight up high.

 

the other problem with these kicker arrangement is the bend and loadings on the mast. and this area is the masts most vulnerable part. convetional kickers only load up the bast base.

 

don't try to outsmart youself here just to do something different JH.

 

as said above, that arrangement will not have enough range/ movement to give you the range of leech tension you need.

 

Also if the mast does not rotate with the boom you will get big side bend and sheer loadings on the mast fitting.

 

look at the 505 website. these guy have tried everything and have evolved to the best systems.

 

http://www.int505.org/index.php?option= ... &Itemid=83

 

And...

http://bethwaite.com/designs.html

[Guest]

It's hard to tell from the photo, but I hope that isn't MDF you're using for the frames. At least not for anything you leave attached to the boat.

 

I'm quite interested to see how you go with this.

I've been toying with the idea of building a new 3.7. The only thing stopping me is knowing the cost of finishing would be similar to what I payed for 333 - which is already one fast hunk of bloody wood and it would be sad to let either boat go.

 

 

Regarding the rig - starling masts are the best option - for starlings. If you carry a spinnaker they wont cope.

(I don't know why starling $parents$ want to go $carbon$, but thats another story)

 

You have mentioned a 3.7 rig - but second hand these are hard to come by. I would suggest modifying a windsurfer mast - you simply glue a plastic sail track to it.

 

As for the vang, I think you would be better with the standard under boom setup as it will not get in the way of the sail. Boats that use the setup you described have sails that are made to fit over it.

 

If you really want this setup, this is how the 29er vang works: It isn't as complicated as the 49er and burnsco stocks all the parts needed... Simple is always better and you will have less breakages.

[Guest Dry Reach]

It's hard to tell from the photo, but I hope that isn't MDF you're using for the frames. At least not for anything you leave attached to the boat.

 

I'm quite interested to see how you go with this.

I've been toying with the idea of building a new 3.7. The only thing stopping me is knowing the cost of finishing would be similar to what I payed for 333 - which is already one fast hunk of bloody wood and it would be sad to let either boat go.

 

 

Regarding the rig - starling masts are the best option - for starlings. If you carry a spinnaker they wont cope.

(I don't know why starling $parents$ want to go $carbon$, but thats another story)

 

You have mentioned a 3.7 rig - but second hand these are hard to come by. I would suggest modifying a windsurfer mast - you simply glue a plastic sail track to it.

 

As for the vang, I think you would be better with the standard under boom setup as it will not get in the way of the sail. Boats that use the setup you described have sails that are made to fit over it.

 

If you really want this setup, this is how the 29er vang works: It isn't as complicated as the 49er and burnsco stocks all the parts needed... Simple is always better and you will have less breakages.

 

The customwood frames (Jig) are not part of the boat but only there to form the ply around prior to glassing and turning over to insert ply bulkheads.

 

Hey JH, don't forget to level up the hull firmly to the floor!, once turned over, so as not to have a racked hull and issuse of difficult bulkhead installation and chainplates that are not even or level etc.... sure you are on to it...

 

Nothing worse than a leaning rig and uneven chain plate hieghts...

[Atom Ant 0]

JH's ol' man is a boat builder so I'm sure he's getting some good info, but keep on it JH - looking good!