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Diesel controls Give and take


shanson

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So here's the give...

 

I have the old style twin lever morse controls, My biggest problem over the last few years has been the throttle dropping back to idle when motoring, many trips to the local dealer and getting the hard sell on brand new kit. I would end up buying the cheaper alternative, a new set of friction washers.

 

One day, I decided there must be a better way, I searched the net and found this on Sailboatowners.com...

 

Our throttle backs off while motoring. We're using a bungee strap to hold it down. How do you increase the friction drag on a MV2 Morse Control?...

 

Morse makes a "J" clamp specifically for use on their cables. Morse Part Number 044386 cost about $16. This was recommended by the Yanmar service tech. Suppose to be better than the "crusher" types.

 

I ended up using a cable crusher type (i had one on hand), works like a charm! and took about 5 mins to install. I expect to get another few years from my controls!

 

Here's the take....

 

Now the only problem I have is that I don't have an idle stop. that is I can easily push my throttle past idle and kill the engine, this makes manoeuvring in the marine quite fun sometimes! :problem: With the design of engine I have there should be a spring that kicks in around idle. So when I push the throttle back, the spring kicks in and I have to push harder to kill the engine.

 

Does anyone have details and/or pictures of what they have?

 

Cheers

 

SHANE

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Does the lever itself not stop somewhere.

If it does you could set the cable length accordingly.

Sorry if that's far too obvious an option.

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Thanks Slacko

 

The lever stops itself well past idle so the engine dies.

 

If I adjust the cable then the lever will stop at idle and I have no way of killing the engine.

 

That's pretty much the way engine kill switches work (I think) , they pull the throttle past there the lever stops, however you need a proper spring mechanism on the diesel pump and my engines never had one.

 

SHANE

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Ohh right, no seperate stop lever.

Maybe a solenoid connected to where the cable connects to the pump lever. Other end of solenoid connected to the cable.

When the solenoid is engaged, it shortens the linkage killing the engine.

It would only work when the lever is in the idle position.

It would mean the solenoid would move with the lever, but it wouldn't need much power so could be small.

 

Go the All Whites!!

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Hmm not a bad idea, use a linear solenoid. :think:

 

I still think it would be simpler to use a spring that tensions after idle, just not 100% sure how to set it up!

 

Yep go the All whites! :-)

 

SHANE

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Hmmmm, an "interesting" setup. So do I get the picture that the way you have stopped the throttle moving on it's own is to "grab" the cable?? Not quite how I would have gone about. Surely there has to be a better friction material or means to adjust that part.

You kind of need a "safe mode" of what happens if cable breaks. Does the throttle return to idle. You don't want to have the engine locked in full power.

So OK then, you could have a Rod link. As the throttle on the pump comes forward, it then pushes on the rod.

A solinoid is easy to do. But don't qo buying the proper thing. They are a couple of hundred and you can get similar versions from the wrecker. I am sure I have a spare one here somewhere, so if you did want to go that route, yell and you can have it for nothing. That way you can set up the stop with a push button or micro switch connected internally on the Morse control.

Personally I would rather have a seperate stop control so no mistakes are made. But mostly, it means all you eggs are not in one basket. If your throttle cable breaks, then you also have no way of stoppign the engine.

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I've got a seperate cable going to a stop lever on the injector pump.

I've been thinking about changing it to a solenoid as the cable is not the best.

I spent $90 getting it properly rebuilt by Melbar Cables in Wellington, but it is still very tight. Probably due to the corners it has to go round and the length (3 metres).

There isn't an obvious location for it closer to the engine and I like having it within reach of the tiller anyway.

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Standby slacko. I think I have a brand new Morse cable in the shed you can have. PM me in a day opr two if I haven't got back to you. It just means I forgot. I don't have a memory like sieve, it's more like Chicken wire.

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Wheels

 

Yes you are correct it basically Grabs the cable, this is how Morse recommend it for my style of controls, the only difference is that I used a cable clamp rather than the official Morse part, The cable is well oversized for the engine so is unlikely to break, but if it does it will most likely be on the control side of the clamp meaning that the engine will continue at the rev's it's set, most likely not a big deal as I can pop it out of gear then kill it pretty quickly.

 

I also have an emergency control setup using rope available if need be.

 

I can't really see how a solenoid would work in my setup as the throttle will basically be held in place by the lever. In other setups I have seen there is basically two throttles, one to adjust the rev's the other to pull the rev's back past idle and kill the engine. This is a function of the diesel pump that my engine does not have.

 

The alternative I've thought about is a large butterfly type valve on the air inlet, it looks like space will be an issue.

 

SHANE

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