Crazyhorse
-
Content Count
869 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Media Demo
Forums
Gallery
Calendar
Store
Posts posted by Crazyhorse
-
-
Again I warn about use of synthetic oil. Read my previous posts. A bit of bog paper and your dipstick tells you a lot about oil quality (I think I forgot to mention its best done soon after stopping a hot engine, wipe the dip over the paper and look. It's not an exact science but will give you some idea of dirt). You don't need to go paying for analysing oil unless metal other than normal wear is appearing in it.
This running your engine to stop rust...the oil film left on bearings, cylinders etc doesn't evaporate of dissapear over time, it remains unless removed by someone (desludging). There is NO NEED TO RUN AN ENGINE TO MAINTAIN IT. Going down to the boat and running the engine an hour or so is simply adding wear to it. As I have said, if you are laying up for winter or long periods or winter, get the engine hot, shut it down, remove the air cleaner and shove an oily rag in the air intake, also in the crank case breather. Remember to put a note near the starter to let everyone know not to start the engine! A small amount of oil in the rocker cover, remove the rags and put the air cleaner back on and away you go again.
-
I have always been amused at the use of mA for such things when it should really be A. They simply want to make the thing look impressive to the many that would have no clue what an A or mA actually was. 20,000 of them sounds really impressive, where as 20A not so. Although 20A is still a fair bit of wack, it just doesn't sound as impressive.
Reminds me of the Getto Blasters that have figures of 2400WPMPO. Wow!!! Sounds impressive.
"Candle power" is the same when it comes to some Chinese light makers claims!
-
.....or some banana skins if you are trying to sell the boat..
-
Found this..interesting.
https://www.kc-synthetic-oil.com/toilet-paper-oil-filter.html
I know the Aussie made filters fitted to a Mack 500hp "super coolpower" engine did an AMAZING JOB. There were two and they held several bog rolls each and about every week we would simply unscrew the stainless steel tube, take it to bin, tip it in and put new rolls in, run the engine a few minutes then top up with oil. These primies were doing on average 2000km a week, some more.
Synthetic is certainly the way to go with automotive engines (the blue smoke should dissapear after the engine warms up and oil thickens) but NOT in most marine diesels. As I understand it, the difference is in engine heat. Some marine diesels are designed to run a lot cooler and some turbo chargers also blow their seals with synthetic oil. Going by grade is not a good idea on its own. The manufacturers know. Whitings said to me no synthetic oil for our 2GM20.
-
Looks like an overgrown hemorrhoid.
Never seen One!???:-:
-
A lot of the accepted norms from the good old days are not relevant anymore and It’s pretty expensive and environmentally irresponsible to change your boat engine oil excessively. I suspect average engine use on a yacht that’s cruised seasonally or even regularly raced during the year would not amount to much more than 50 hours, probably far less. For most yacht engines you could probably change the oil every 2-5 years or even never if you used synthetics and just did a filter change bi annually with a top up. They don’t break down anywhere the same as older gen mineral oils and as far as the the acid build up is concerned, to make an acid you need water and to build up water in an engine don't get it up to operating temperature repeatedly. Perhaps the best way to deal with moisture apart from making sure the engine gets hot every time you use it is getting a bypass filter installed as suggested which will remove excess water.
Be very careful using synthetic oil. Ow (?w) is a great idea on modern automotive engines as it is basically "water" when you first start up and lubricated quickly (where most engine wear takes place) but it will start leaking out of your seals on some engines which are designed to run on standard 30 weight mineral oil. I ran synthetic in a Isuzu 2.8lt turbo and was very impressive the amount of blue smoke it blue on startup ("mate..I think ya engines phukd"). As it heats, it thickens and never had a problem but was told never put synthetic oil in yanmars. One Mack CH I drove had synthetic in it and it needed big end and crank case seals replaced. Check with your engine manufacturer first!
While on this subject, what ever happend to the "lady scott" toilet roll holders? In the 70s, a bright spark in OZ made a filter system that used drop in toilet rolls, lady scott for some reason worked best and Bellway in W.A. fitted all their trucks with them. I remember everyone in the workshop was amazed by the clean oil.
-
Crazyhorse I agree 100% with every thing you said, Except this one comment.
Constant RPM will not cause glazing. It is running long periods with no load that does that. Think of all the engines that run constant RPM driving things like Gensets, Haydraulics, Pumping water, etc etc. All will clock up huge hrs with their life being all at one set RPM of Full throttle.
True, got confused it does something to the cylinders over time which from memory it scores the liners as coke builds on the rings. Most (most!) gensets etc don't run 24/7 anyway, mostly on demand. I was told change your throttle settings every few hours.
-
Going to be a lot windier in Invercargill and Stewart Is !
MORE than 223kts!!!!???
-
I posted this a while back as this topic pops up again.
No dramas about starting and engine after a long time of not running. Been a truckie here and Oz and the worst Worst WORST thing you can do is shoot down to the boat and run the engine a little to "keep it lubricated" every now and then. Just leave the dam thing! It's not going to hurt it one bit. You will soon spot those who do, look for clouds of blue smoke. One thing you should do is stuff a rag into your air intake and sump breather when laying over for a while, do it when the engine is still hot then forget about it. The engine itself will be fine. Once had a chaff cutter on the Grampians Station that had an old flathead Ford V8. Would spend 11 months under a tarp with starlings nesting in it and then would start first time off a bettery. What kills engines is not warming up fast enough under load and reving before the oil has properly lubricated, particularly turbos.
A foot note. Oil over time costs a lot less than rebores, rings and valve grinds so when it's getting dirty, change it. A bit of bog paper, wipe the dipstick over it and you can soon see its getting soot in it. Idling engines, particularly diesels is a killer, under running is not good either. If you need to run under full throttle run at full throttle from time to time, clears coaking on the valves. Never run your diesel for hours on the same throttle setting, will glaze the cylinders. Hope that helps?
-
Going to be a (very!) cold windy day in the Bay!
-
Combined with decompression leavers (if you have them?)
-
Wind dying now finally but was biblical in BOIs today. 57kts. R Tucker Thomson in here at Assassination Cove along with loads of others battening down the hatches.
-
Most laptops require 19v DC to run (chip set and CPU power) and as others have stated, the best 12v DC conversion is to run a simple switch mode power supply to get 12v to 19v. Inverters be it pure since wave or square won't create a problem when using a laptops 240v power supply as the filtering is able to handle the ripple but if you are power conscious, go a direct DC to DC converter. Basically it's a oscillator stepping 12v up to 19v using a transformer so better conversion than inverter and converting down.
The Chinese are now producing laptops that are true 12v. However the wattage will probably be the same as a 19v unit (more amps) so no real gain.
We have gone down this road and there are now USB (5V) PCs available that have dual processors and capable of 1080p HD resolution. They have USB ports so mouse and keyboard can be plugged in and externally powered hard drives run OK. All you do is plug them directly into a HDMI port on a monitor and there are 12v monitors about that can run these. 2ah!
-
A couple of extra solar panels are much quieter than a wind gen, no moving parts either. Another way is to have a belt driven alternator running off your prop shaft.
Alternators won't start to produce power below 2000rpm so work out your pulley ratio. Wind gennys are great when a cyclone is about, all other times a lot of noise and nothing at the other end so SPs are the way to go and good storage for rainy days.
-
A still...hooch rocks!
-
homemade weedeater 12v mini generator - YouTube
-
Yep, this is the trouble, they don't exist. Even looked at model aircraft engines that run on distillate but noisy as he'll (would cure the problem of giant wedding cakes that like anchoring on top of us!). YouTube has lots of ideas with small brush cutter engines powering small alternators and that's the direction we are heading in.
-
Amps x Volts = Watts
Watts / 745.7 (one HP) = Electrical HP Produced by the Alternator
HP x 15% Efficiency Loss = HP Loss
HP + HP Loss = Total HP Used
I have no problem with that but your are talking an alternator with powered exciter?
-
230 Volts through invertor when main engine charge drops to 40 amps. Genset in low speed at about 40 amps 12 volt invertor charge output
This has me confused, sorry Brien but 230v through a inverter!? KABOOM! I think you mean FROM an inverter? Inverters are inherently wasteful and the idea is to not have to step up or step down any voltage but straight DC. All (unfortunatly) portable generators are 230 240v unless you go 60hz 110. To make use of that requires a battery charger which is a great idea with "set and forget" but a simple(?) small engine running a perminant magnet type 3 phase alternator and then a rectifier regulator should work? I am talking the tiniest of engines, 22cc 4 stroke, 3.2kg weight and I would expect about 20 amps output at 14 plus volts?
-
The issue is that every 60 odd amps of alternator takes a hp to drive. The really small engines simply are not powerful enough to make it worthwhile.
Thought the same but then wind turbines would have to fall into that category too, like the one you sold us!? How much horse power is required for the silentwind to put out 20ah? 40?
-
Googled 4 stroke brush cutter generators and lots popped up. Have been thinking of a permanent magnet alternator hooked up to one of those? All little portable generators are 12/ 240v so a waste trying to charge up batteries but a straight 12v....?
(Sorry if hijacking thread!)
-
Just a thought Muz. Have you run the TP "standing still"? That is, having it powered up, AP engaged and have it somewhere where it doesn't move? (Away from metal objects). There will probably be a little movement of the drive shaft as fluxgates are not accurate but it shouldn't move more than a few cm and return to its orriginal position or not to far back and forth from its orriginal position.
Put a mark on the shaft with a marker pen to see how far it travels. Make sure the shaft is half extended before engaging the AP. Get yourself a magnet and try moving that around the fluxgate, the shaft should move to compensate then return to the position you marked on the shaft when you take the magnet away. If it fails any of that, it's probably toast.
-
bright orange antifoul is likely Petit Vivid. I could be wrong, but that is the only AF I know that has bright colors. It is real expensive and good for Boot topping, but not the greatest performer IMO.
The only AF I have come cross that was thin enough to spray was Hempels, Real easy to roll on too.
Was given "vivid" last year so tried it, garbage! No copper as its for alloy hulls so has some other biocide in it and loads of barnies after only 6 months.
-
Old model so no interface. Be Careful pulling it apart as the screws will likely snap off the inside screw threads through age. Once apart, that lumpy bit in the case houses the fluxgate. I use graphite grease but check for movement by tilting the bottom section around a bit. The gimbal should keep it level if not, work the graphite in using a tooth pick and free it up. Don't use CRC! It will effect the varnished windings. I think the button push sequence is the same as the old TP10. Find the instructions and try recalibrating it before surgery!
Oil change frequency
in TechTalk
Posted
If you DONT see dirt on the bog paper there is something wrong! Oil pump not working properly, blockage, clogged filter, capillarising of the oil lines where heat and pressure turns oil into sludge then crystalises. The oil lubricates, cools and also removes dirt (coke) from valve guides etc but a keen eye can work out how much is in the oil and when a change is needed. Water cooling rises faster than oil temperature, so the viscosity of the oil doesn't change as fast reach its full lubrication until the engine and oil are hot. The biggest wear is on startup, so the more you start an idle engine the more the wear. There is no benefit in doing it Wheels.
Anyhow, said enough on this subject. Believe it or not. 45 years driving and repairing trucks, I seem to know nothing.