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You set up your alternator/regulator pair for the Li and use the dc/dc to top up your start. So you can take your start battery to 14.7 while your Li is charging at 13.2... Or if your Li has topped out at 13.8 then your dc/dc will continue at 14.7. All numbers are made up and will depend on your setup but are realistic. Now you have 2 chargers. Your alternator, that is smart because of your mc612, and the dc/dc charger. The voltage from the alternator while charging your Li should be too low to charge a agm start fully.

Hay CD, in this example, how do you cater for the different charging voltages required for the lithium and the AGM start? the battery isolator outputs the same voltage doesn't it?

Also, Victron ArgoFET is the best splitter I have come across: https://www.victronenergy.com/battery-isolators-and-combiners/argo-fet-battery-isolators But in hindsight and thinking about it right now, I am not actually sure how these would cope with an alternator load dump/voltage spike which is your use case - maybe that is something @Island Time could comment on?!? Maybe a traditional diode splitter would be better just cranking up the voltage at the alternator to compensate for the voltage drop.

Yes, I'm talking to ivent. Their prices on line are ex GST. Currently $280 incl (pick up).

I got mine a year ago +/- from here: https://www.ivent.co.nz/product/category/951/12v 100ah deep cycle lead carbon battery/38317 I am pretty sure I paid $275 incl.. I note that site now says $275 and I suspect that that is excl GST, so maybe I got that wrong... although prices may have also gone up....

You definitely cannot charge any LA as fast as Li. You may be thinking that you can only charge so fast because of your alternator capacity, therefore it makes no difference - that's not correct either, because LA will push back on the current far far sooner than the Li will. Eg, the Li will continue to accept 100amps up to 95% capacity. While the LA will probably be down to 15amps at 95% capacity so your charge time is considerably longer to reach the same capacity. If you have a 100ah alternator and a 100ah LFP battery, you can pretty much gaurantee that after 1hour the battery w

Champion. $275 you say? I've currently found the best price at $280 each, but that is with a 10% sale via the Motor Caravan Association magazine. That gives me a 300 Ah bank, 150Ah working capacity for $840, and currently no other mods to my charging system. To do the same with lithium would cost about $2,300 ish. If the batteries perform as they say, I can charge as fast as lithiums, and wont have to worry about getting a full trickle charge on each use to combat sulphation. i.e. the partial state of charge will be fine, same as lithiums. If they don't live up to the hype, then they

Yes. Exactly that battery. Cost $275. The best value deep cycle around IMO. There's so many different ways to build a solution. You need to build based on the outcome you want to achieve. You'll only get as much current as the battery will accept. If it's fully charged it will be f.all and certainly not 12amps.

Use a splitter to charge the lithium and have it connected to the start as well. And use a cheap dc/dc from the Li to top off your start battery. You've already got the mc612, it's not what I would recommend for a greenfields installation but it's an investment you can leverage. Obs you need to set the right specs. Connect your current solar controller to your new Li and set it up for whatever Li charge specs you are happy with.

What are some of the other options? The charging current is a key element for me, specifically faster charging. I could get two victron DC chargers, 30A each, but $800. We only have a 70a alternator, but the current batts aren't supposed to charge faster than 23 amps, so I can easily double the charging rate (safely, if I get the right batteries). The other way to go is to change the start battery to the same chemistry as the new house batts. That may be cheaper than using DC chargers. Our anchor winch runs via the start batt, so I need to make sure there are no issues there (engine alway

Lithiums don't need dc/dc. But that is one of many options. I would recommend against dc/dc for lithium. One of the main benefits of lithium is the fast charge rate and you lose that with dc/dc. You raise valid issues but there's other ways to skin the cat... The MC612 can't measure current. It limits the output and that's it. I run my stock alternator at max output for a couple of hours and have never had any problems. The reality is you cannot charge two different chemistries (incl lead carbon) with one charging source. Their will always be a compromise.

Thanks CD, Is it the same Kijo lead carbon you have? Your explanation is logical, although not clear on the data sheet. We have an EPever 20amp solar controller. We have been investigating the exact issue you mention. Every day at sun up, the controller gives it 2 hrs of bulk charge, regardless of what the batt voltage was, then goes through to float. I had 180w solar onboard so it may have been getting 12 amps, but one panel shat itself (there is a theme here). After investigating a few things, I've just put a 20w panel on so I can float, but there is no risk of overcharging. I

I have one of these for the anchor winch and a backup start battery. The equalization applies if you are using it as a standby battery. It would sit on float for 6 months and then undertake a equalization charge. You're using it as a cycle battery. They don't provide a termination current but it's safe to assume 1amp. Charge to 14.7 volts at a max current of 20a when the current drops to 1amp switch to a float charge of 13.8v I don't float charge mine, I just switch off and let the battery sit. It's usually 12.9v after 2 weeks in winter. During summer it's generally

Thanks IT, This one is available from 2 local suppliers. Both providing 'support'. But so far they have struggled with a convincing answer on the above question, hence one is contacting / confirming with the manufacturer. He says they have good / responsive communications and is confident he can explain / answer my question. But that said, what are these other lead carbon's you speak of? My current thinking is to install 3 of the 100A/hrs in parallel to give me a 300A/hr bank. That will give a maximum charge current of 90a, and a recommended of 30a to 60a. We have a 70A alternat

Hmm, seams to me they have some issues in translation. Charge voltage and equalization seem to be reversed. Also the max Charge current of 30a is a problem for most charging systems. Normally battery internal resistance restricts Charge rate. I'd be cautious of this battery. There are local suppliers of lead carbon, 120a/r for about $600, with local support and neither if these requirements.

Hi Steward, for what what day you need the crew ? thank you

Attached is the product data sheet. I think the terms here may have different meanings to what we are used to. The supplier is asking the manufacturer in China to confirm my questions. I'm expecting a response on Monday, or early next week. Aside from that, what gear do you use for a normal equilisation charge IT? JPC12-100-DS.pdf

The definition of an equalization charge is a period of charge at a higher voltage. Insist on a product data sheet from the manufacturer. If the supplier can't do that, move on to another supplier. Lead Carbon does not normally need equalization.

How to make a bomb, and other battery charging questions. What equipment do you use to give lead acid batteries an equilisation charge? Specifically a charger you can accurately specify the voltage and current so you don't make a bomb? We currently have flooded lead acid batteries for the house bank, and they appear to have shat themselves, due to various reasons. We have never equalized them, despite the recommendation being to do it monthly. The main reason being all the other recommendations on how to do it safely and properly. I'm now looking at new house batts that require

I'm always afraid of commenting about a lady's, ah, attributes.

That sounds interesting. Should introduce him to Crew and he could keep us informed.

Well, I sold them to a guy building a carvel planked double-ender, so yup I guess so. Cheers.

Did the classic guys show interest in them?

Thanks. Will give them a call.

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