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Aussie Sail GP find the weed too

Too many variables... Arev you carrying weed onboard or wrapped around appendages? and how much weed?

It would be beneficial to add a with/without weed option to the spreadsheet as well.

Predict Wind data hub polars are excellent in the app for routing, departure planning etc. but no good for actual polars. They’re way more complex, in ways that are totally over my head, but when I asked if we could export them it was explained, with absolutely no understanding at my end, that it wasn’t a useable format. On the plus side, it makes their weather routing almost supernaturally accurate. Just amazing!

Hi Splat, I am pleased to say that these worked fantastically during the Northern Triangle. I used the base data and then tweaked a little where I know we are a bit faster off the wind with a rather large A2 up. Having polar performance data continually showing certainly made both co-skippers keep working hard to keep the numbers at 100% or better. I may just put the Predictwind data hub on my Christmas wish list which will improve this continually.

Leg 1: Friday evening. Karaka Bay, Tamaki River to Chamberlains Bay, Ponui Island. Leg2: Saturday: Ponui to Bon Accord, Kawau Island. Bbq dinner provided. Leg3: Sunday: Kawau to Karaka Bay. Entries close Monday 5pm https://pybc.org.nz/

Of course. And therefore the sane logic applies to LTO 😜

I get your point but; You do *need* a bms for LFP if you want any credibility with insurance companies or over anxious berth mates. Or, you want to try and prolong the life of your LFP by a few cycles .Also not having one could suggest legal grounds for lack of safety provisions on *your* installation in the event of injuries. Strike one-diy, strike two -no bms. Or visa versa. My needs are piece of mind in terms of reasonable eventualities. Besides, data is cool.😆 Good bms’s are cheap ! Also I’m getting old and forgetful.

First time I have heard of LTO batteries, but they seem to be an advance LFP batteries which are pretty good anyway. I found a fire extinguisher for lithium fires, it has some kind of cooling gel extinguishing agent that envelops the battery and costs almost as much as a the battery at $1695+ GST

Well you don't *need* a bms for LFP either... It's there just in case... And there's zero point balancing if you aren't charging to atleast 2.75v / cell A fully charged LTO cell (eg 2.9v @0.02C) settles at around 2.88v over 24hrs - it's not like LFP.

I've heard it suggested that you don't need a BMS for LTO's just an active balancer, as you're not likely to get in the individual cell HV cutoff zone. 2.85x6= 17.1V, so charging at 14.4V would need a serious cell fault.( realising that back out of the knee, rested, is probably in the 2.6V (15.6V) area) Now I am out of the marina I may still pursue the LTO, but will have a bms with active balancing. I can see why your windlass was loving it, 14.4V with very little sag! Makes one wonder the limit V the SM/windlass windings are designed for.

Yep 6 cells in the LTO. I charged the LTO to 14.4v. Apparently this really stresses the glow plugs, but I didn't burn them out. I don't think that LTO is worth it on a boat. But if the price comes down and I can find some glow plugs it might start making sense. I pretty sure you still need a charge controller with I-term - if you just run the alternator at 14v I think that just like with LFP you will still overcharge LTO if you run for eg days on a long journey - but the literature is pretty light for LTO so I do not know for sure... I have a generic drop-in and I don't charge with sh

I have not really gotten to the bottom of it - there's a new (2022) AS/NZS standard which applies to Li batteries in habitable areas. Some people are applying the new 2022 standard to boats in Australia although from what I can tell it only applies to RVs. But the CYCA are pretty safety conscious these days so it's probably in some NoR safety regulation... That standard requires Li batteries be installed in vapor proof area that vents outside and draw's it's air from the underneath but also from the outside. Any cables must be through vapor proof cable glands. Pretty much the same as

Thank you for the information. Boat is no longer in Stillwater. I bought the boat about 1.5 years ago (old photo). I think I will wait for a new mainsail before playing with steering. The main is definitely not in good shape very stretched. The boat was lengthened by a previous owner thus moved the rudders about 1.5m backwards from original position.

So in theory should work with my Raymarine element display.....

Thanks Cam... good video

IT - have the regs/standards been updated now for LFP?

With all the effort to get to start line, having to swap out your LFP would be a mile too far! When are they going to wake up on LFP? 6 cells or five LTO ? " although the LFP was actually just fine", So you did try starting your motor off your house bank? What BMS do you have? (I think you mentioned way back, but cant remember.) I'm all set up to switch to house LFP for emergency start of motor with the three switch setup but never had the need. Unleashing the LTO (6 cells) on your boat glowplug circuitry as you said may result in dead glow plugs at very least. My 3GM

I put one in for the anchor winch as a trial, although the LFP was actually just fine, but the LTO ripped that anchor up faster than anything... then I moved it to the land cruiser which is 24v start and doesn't have glow plugs, it has a like a mesh heater that heats the air intake - it starts amazingly fine off a 12v LTO, better than it did off the 24v!!! Because the boat has glow plugs, I am not prepared to run an LTO start battery until I can find some compatible glow plugs - I have not really searched that hard... I am sure there's some available After a very fun SSANZ Northern T

So, you installed LTO? I delayed as start lead is still working. And insurance co scratched their head harder than on LFP.

Sorry LTO start/winch battery IT said "NO"

Normally Yachts use the B&G version - V60B. I've put lots of these on customers boats and had no issues.... If the display is too small for AIS and you have a MFD or Triton2 displays, they can do the AIS instead... via NMEA2000...

What BooBoo said. The amount of rudder blade forward of the pivot point is what provides rudder balance (ease of turning). Those rudders look like they drop down to probably fwd of the pivot point - it's essential that they lock down properly and cannot move aft in their cases - even a few mm makes a big difference. So the balance on the rudders controls helm load, but as Booboo says, the centre of lateral resistance v the centre of effort of the rig denotes how MUCH rudder is needed to counter any rotational forces. If you need a few deg of rudder to keep the boat sailing straight, then

I'd be interested to read of any incident with LIFEPO4 batteries being identified as the cause of ANY fire, ashore or afloat, BMS failure or not. LifePo4 batts are VERY hard to make burn (ABYC tried to do it and couldn't) - other Lithium chemistries have no place on a boat IMO.