[Replacing a internal diesel engine with an outboard]

Thanks folks, just had a bit of a go at it but not much time... The filter bowl was full of gunk but too tricky to remove today - will give it a clean out. I tried directly connecting the fuel lines to a plastic jerry can of diesel and it did seem to start a bit easier but then faded again after a few bangs. However, I suspect there is gunk elsewhere in the fuel system given there is no filter element and the filter bowl is full of gunk. 

[Replacing a internal diesel engine with an outboard]

Thanks both - great stuff! I did push what I thought might be a glow plug switch before starting but it didn't seem to do anything. I will check the glow-plug with a multi-meter. I will try a clean source of fuel as well. I think this must be the glow plug and the big red switch - the white push button starts the engine.

 

Start procedure from the manual is:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1621180/Petter-Ab1w.html?page=20#manual

I can't really follow these instruction with the panel/start button that I have though...

STARTER SWITCH OPERATION Fig. 4

(i) Electric starting
(i) Make sure that the decompressor lever is disengaged.
(ii) With the starter switch key in position (A) the circuit is 'off'. (iii) Turn the key clockwise to position (B). The circuit Is now "on" (iv) To operate the starter motor turn the key past position (B) to

position (C). When the engine fires release the key immediately The key is spring-loaded and will return to position (B) Leave the key in this position while the engine is running Do not operate the starter motor for more than 20 seconds at a time.

(v) If when the engine is running there is no charge current the red warning light will light up.

15. Cold starting (Fig. 3)
(a)AB1W.Attemperaturesbelow13°C(55°F)andif theengineiscold.it

is essential to prime the engine for hand starting, and advisable if battery power is low when electric starting.
Proceed as follows:

(i) Remove the priming plunger (P).
(ii) Fill the priming chamber with engine oil - NOT fuel.
(iii) Replace the priming plunger and press down.
(iv) It is advisable to keep a quantity of lubricating oil in a suitable

container for this purpose. (v) Start in the normal manner.

(b) Should the engine fire and then stop, prime again and release the overload stop lever (E) before attempting to start.

(c) AB1W and AC1W. At temperatures below 0°C (32°F) and if the engine is cold. prime the engine twice.

(d) If under cold conditions the engine does not run up to its rated speed after starting, operate the priming plunger again while the engine is running.

(e) To minimise cold starting difficulties, it is a wise policy to keep the engine under cover when not in use and to ensure that an SAE 10W viscosity engine oil is used (see Approved Lubricants).

(f) Below -4°C (25°P) rope starting is not recommen ded. (g)Below-9°C(16°F)consult FettersLtdortheiragentsforstarting

instructions.

[Replacing a internal diesel engine with an outboard]

Thanks Steve and Fish - great info. I will see if I can remove the fuel tank as it is just below the companionway door and give it a good clean out.

Here's a video of trying to start. I think I might need to find the throttle on the engine and see if I can rev it a bit when it starts - there is a bit of string attached to something that looks like it might be a throttle lever but it is very loose so can't see it doing much.

 

[Replacing a internal diesel engine with an outboard]

Thanks both - great advice. My plan is to do the transom mount and use my existing outboard (6hp Johnson) to start with (so I can do a bit of sailing on the harbour) and then start working on the diesel.

Do you know where i would get the kit to rebuilt the water pump? I have emailed the Lister Petter dealer but suspect this model is too old.

I might see if I can replace the exhaust pipe so that I can move the exhaust water trap in behind the engine so I can use that berth. I'd like to have room for both kids to stay overnight at some point so would like to restore the berths to working order. They originally have a canvas base that is tied onto the tubing around the edge of each berth - quite a neat solution to the lack of space!

[Replacing a internal diesel engine with an outboard]

Thanks for the info about the hose. I think the water pump is not going to hold out much longer by the looks... I have sent you an email about the electric motor.

Adding photo of what looks like a header tank at the top of the separate heat exchanger.

[Replacing a internal diesel engine with an outboard]

Thanks for the replies. Some more photos showing where that vertical hose goes to. Also close up of where the oil leak(s) look like they are coming from.

I had it started today and it ran for about 30 seconds and then died. Some water started squirting out of the back of the water pump - it is very corroded if you look at one of the attached photos. I can't see a filter between the stop cock and the water pump.

Looks like they might have added an extra heat exchanger on as well? (That is really in the way of one of the berths!).

Any idea what that coolant is doing?

@syohana, I'm tempted to try out the electric motor you have. Can you message me the install instructions?

[Replacing a internal diesel engine with an outboard]

Sounds like a good plan. I think the leak is fairly major as the previous owner said it was spraying oil around as it dripped and hit moving parts... I think a temporary outboard solution sounds best with the aim to get the diesel going at some point if possible. It will mostly be used for getting in and out of the marina and will just be doing a bit of sailing in the harbour on quiet days with no waves to start with.

[Replacing a internal diesel engine with an outboard]

Photo of the engine:

 

[Replacing a internal diesel engine with an outboard]

Thanks for all the great replies! I will see what I can do with the diesel. There is not much room in the cabin and the engine and all the bits take up quite a bit of room so would ideally like to get rid of it for that reason as well!

The inboard is a 6hp single cylinder Lister Petter AC1W.

The 'drop in' electric alternative sounds good (I'd love the idea of quietly motoring around on a still day) but my investigation was that it might be very expensive with the cost of the battery etc. I'd need solar panels as on a pile mooring. Also not sure how it would work with an old-fashioned stuffing box and potential for water in the bilge... @syohana - can you send me a link to more info? I was thinking if I did electric I would seal everything up (no holes in the hull...) and put a pod drive on the bottom.

 

[Replacing a internal diesel engine with an outboard]

Hi, I've just bought an old Van de Stadt Privaat (Buccaneer) that has an old diesel inboard that is unreliable and leaking oil. I've got a 6hp Johnson outboard and am planning to mount it on the transom and remove the inboard diesel. I'd appreciate any advice on the best way to so this. There is a swim ladder and chainplate for the backstay in the centre so I was going to mount it to one side using a rise and fall outboard bracket. One issue is that the design of the boat means it might be quite tricky to operate the outboard from the cockpit so it might need to convert it to remote control. Another option I've been thinking of is to replace the inboard with a pod electric system but this seems quite expensive compared to just using the outboard I already have (although would be nice and quiet!).