ricka
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Posts posted by ricka
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2 hours ago, waikiore said:
Because it is a lot easier to replace the cutless bearing with it on the bench and not having to let go the shaft and draw it, which can often be a problem (clearing the skeg for example) Multi skin Townson yachts are not always wet down there if they have been glassed. Yes I have worked on one or two...
Oh yer the skeg.
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I cant see why you would remove it. It looks like a timber boat in which case everything is wet in that area anyway
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How much anchor chain would Kaitaki carry?
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Any old used white sail wanted please foot length 3.2 minimum.
Pick up in Auckland region
Private message or mobile Rick 021 95 901
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Yes - Harry Harrison in Grey Lynn. Very approachable and excellent, considered work at a reasonable price.
Harry Harrison harrih@xtra.co.nz
Also I have known him for years and he has done work with me. That's the only connection BTW
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I have now setup a new website www.jorgensenboats.nz - a repository for all things relating specifically to boats built by Jorgensen and Sons of Waikawa Bay, Picton.
As owner of Peter (Pop) Jorgensen’s yacht Stormbird I am fascinated by and admire Jorgensen boats and I would like their history to be preserved in a publicly accessible form.
I am asking around for anyone connected to the yard by way of the people that worked there and past and present boat owners to contact me so I can include their information - pictures, anecdotes, technical information, refurbishment notes, present whereabouts of the boats etc. Contact details are on the website or PM-
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Does salt on and in the fabric make any difference to it being for marine or motorcycle?
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Bio Magic additive from Burnsco
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10 minutes ago, chariot said:
That was supposed to be 12 volt system.
18 minutes ago, chariot said:Why would you have an EWOF if you only have 12 system.
You wouldn't need one.
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1 hour ago, marinheiro said:
curious to know which marina asked you this?
There is a concerning trend of the marinas inventing all sort of rules that are not actually legal requirements. They are correct to ask for an EWOF because that is the law and they are responsible for you connecting to the power supply, but a gas certificate?
I would prefer the boat next to mine has, like mine, a gas certificate as well as EWOF
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Thanks Fish - good pics and explanation. Counts me out though as I don't have a strut.
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15 hours ago, Fish said:
Fairly sure we have had scale on the shaft under the cutless bearing. We put in a new shaft when we did the engine. We had scale on the taper, cause that wasn't mated properly when we changed a prop. I doubt scale would cause what you describe, but it could be a symptom. Scale under the cutless bearing is likely to accelerate wear of the bearing, once it gets sloppy you get all sorts of random noise. Generally just lots of noise and vibration. But you can get structure born vibration that makes very odd noise in other nearby parts of the boat. Before we last changed out cutless bearing, I was regularly looking in the lazarette locker for something that had come loose.... there was an odd rattle.
The other thing it could be is prop cavitation. Its unlikely, unless you've changed your prop, or have somehow changed or damaged the very tip of a blade. Cavitation is when the prop tip is too close to the hull, sounds like a high pitched 'pinging'. As revs increase you can't hear it, the frequency increases until its just more white noise... Can normally only hear it on clam still days at low to medium revs, i.e. its very hard to hear over the environment. If you are familiar with large pumps (water or wastewater) it is the same noise / phenomina as when a pump impellor is worn, or the pump is dead-heading (stalled but still spinning around).
I would change your cutless bearing first. A warn bearing causes all sorts of noise and vibration in the drive train. The brass ones are fine, the phenolics are cheaper but don't last nearly as long. We have a pulling tool if you want, and it fits your boat. We do ours between tides on piles. Takes two of us less than 10 mins from start to finish, and no need to drop the rudder, haul out and all that bullshit. The tool fits 1 1/4 inch shaft, 1 3/4 bearing. Pick up Whangaparaoa.
On the anode question, I understand why you want to avoid risk of over zinc-ing, we have had soft wood cut out cause of over zincing, (DD kauri with glass skin), but we now only have a zinc on the prop shaft. I know the classics banned anodes, complained a kiwiprop failed after 3 years, but no anode...
Ah huh - brilliant then that's the problem! and I will replace the cutless bearing. Last time I removed it with a slide hammer cutting a slot in it first with hand held hacksaw blade. The boat has the prop in an aperture which is a bit of a bugger cos to get the shaft forward enough to remove the bearing the engine has to be lifted and moved forward or possibly get away with removing the gearbox (uncharted territory).
Thanks for the offer of the puller might take up you up on that - the size is right. Would you be able to send a pic and I can quickly see if it will be of use due to the small prop aperture size.
The tip clearance etc is correct enough according to the prop guys.
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15 hours ago, Island Time said:
But you have. Fasteners, through hulls, shaft, rudder and shaft, prop, cutlass bearing maybe, rudder bearings maybe, all very unlikely to be the same.
Yes but all those are isolated eg there are no mixed metals in contact with each other under the water.
Fastners are isolated, bronze though hulls are isolated, s/s rudder shaft is isolated from bronze bearing at the lower end.
There is an electrical path with resistance from the prop shaft to the stuffing box and cutless bearing - not sure why except perhaps because they are close to each other and the salt water is conducting.
The only thing that isn't isolated is the prop and shaft which are dissimilar metals and the prop degrades over time but will last for 10 years or more and that works out at $120 per year minus the cost the cost of replacing anodes.
The boat was built 50 years ago with no anode allowed for
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Getting bit off topic here because what I would like to know is and my original question is .....has anyone seen scale/calcification build up on the prop shaft inside the cutless bearing?
But re the anodes rule - number one is don't mix metals under water - lots of info at Waitemata Woodys
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Wooden carvel boat.
Anode = even more trouble - its cheaper to buy a new prop every now and than fix the stern timber area from degradation
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The only other thing is that researching this I realised the cutless bearing has a brass shell part number which will be in contact with the copper stern tube and if it really is brass it will be breaking down. (5 yrs old) No anode fitted anywhere.
So will replace with a phenolic one and have a good look at everything at that time (now soon)
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Prop is fixed 3 blade. Prop speed in good condition. Recent water blast. As the noise goes away with use there is a variable. The only one I can think of is hard growth on the shaft bearing surface.
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Thanks for input..Checked alignment, deadwood cutless bearing= bronze tube with rubber bush.
The noise goes away with motoring use....
Is hard growth on the shaft possible?
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Is it possible to have scale/calcification build up on the prop shaft inside the cutless bearing that causes a vibrating/chattering noise from that area in forward and reverse that goes away with use?
Ok at low revs worse at moderate to high revs. Prolonged low speed use makes the noise go away.
Boat = 36’ timber yacht, 5 yr old / 150 running hour rubber bushed kind of cutless bearing with normal play and 2205 s/s shaft also 5 yr old, bronze prop, no anode, run in fwd and rev gear 2 x month minimum for 30 minutes
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Not all 12M berths measure 12M some can take a longer boat and not overhang which is what you need
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I had Ashbygas check and certify my system-recommended
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Thanks IT good advice and from others ..make the best of what I have. I shall get an expert to check the volts
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Opinions please... will adding another engine mounted charging alternator reduce the charging time by a significant amount?
What there is = yacht, 38hp engine, 1x120amp alternator, 130ah house battery, 80amp start battery, Next Step regulator, voltage sensitive relay.
The engine starts easily so start battery is always pretty full.
As a comparison if the second alternator was 120amp as well would full charge time be improved?
How much better would a 240amp second alternator be?
Cav 32 modifications for ocean sailing
in TechTalk
Posted
I have fitted a Fleming servo pendulum unit to the deck of Stormbird. If you would like to look at it to get some ideas PM to arrange. The boat is at Westhaven.