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mattm

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Posts posted by mattm

  1. I have already had a ticket. I was swimming from the inflatable, getting a couple of Paua if I recall. Was about 5m from the beach and I got back into the dinghy from standing on the bottom (say 1.7m deep, I'm about 2m tall). Guy on HM boat said I would 'get a letter from the HM regarding not carrying a life jacket in dinghy'. A month later a fine showed up. Had I still been in the water, no problem. A mate that was with me in the dinghy had a wetsuit on, he didn't get a fine as 'that's a grey area'. Was a tad annoyed.

  2. Marine grade coax cable and connectors are available from Pacific aerials, or anyone who sells their stuff, which is likely to be every marine electrician in the country. I have several rolls of coax and a box full of connectors, IT is likely to have the same if you are Auckland based....

  3. Also explain what they are going to sail? There hasn't been a new trailer yacht on the market that has sold decent numbers in years. Maybe even decades. The issue will be an ageing fleet and lack of supply. Boats may become give always, but because they are unusable due to age and neglect, not due to lack of demand.

    The younger market may want fast cruisable boats, but there isn't a perfect option, nothing with a useable cabin will beat a sport boat without one, and no real sport boat can really be cruised by a family....

    I have a sport boat now, but am totally open to the ideal of a Noelex 25 or Ross or Elliott when I want to be able to go cruising as well.

  4. Hmmm. A tricky situation then, most of the trailer yachts in NZ are 30 years old. Including the Noelex 25's, the NZ built ones were 80's boats, there are maybe 2 Australian 90's built ones in NZ, but you would expect them to be at the more expensive end of the scale. The decent trailer boats - Noelex, Elliott, Ross and Farr, in the 25 foot range have all held their value ok, maybe due to being factory built class boats, but a tidy one will still be 25k +. 15k does kind of put you in the middle of the better condition less common not so great boats and the older, rougher, less kit, popular boats. If you buy a rough popular model boat, you may decide the motor isn't reliable to get the family out of trouble, +$2k, the squabs are a bit stuffed and not good for sleeping on, +$2k, the sails are a bit done, +3k, the halyards, sheets, jammers and clutches are had it, +$2k... You will need to be particular, lucky and quick to buy a good popular boat that doesn't look 30 years old and won't require $$ soon, close to your budget.

  5. I like this system, always used it in trailer boats, never tried it on a bigger boat. One thing that did bug me on light days was the extra weight on the boom when your trying to open the leach for flow, I took the pole off the boom on light days because we didn't have a boom topper - which would also solve the problem.

  6. The Noelex 25's hold their value because:

    They are roomy for their size, practically laid out, have heaps of storage, some have 'pop tops' which allow lots of head room inside while cruising

    Not too heavy for thier size

    Sail properly, - no bad habits, nice hull shape, good fun to race, can beat much bigger boats.

    Simple to rig and sail

    Offer class raving and good national champs

    Well known and proven

    All but 1 I know of have a factory finished interior, rather than a home handyman botch job on some trailer yachts.... Or one off weird layouts on others.

    More family friendly (not quite as fast /powered up) as a Ross boat.

    Any others?

    There are a few now that have been ok boats that have sold inside your budget, they may not have had fancy race sails etc, but I doubt that to be a concern to you at the moment?

  7. Not really a fan of his description saying it's worth $60k when fixed, when his attempts to sell it for that much before it became a wreck prove it wasn't. He obviously knows it wasn't worth $60k, because he reduced the price at least a couple of times, and it still didn't sell. Just seems somewhat dishonest. He's basically asking for someone to help him out by buying it, but lying to them in the process, or at least, misleading them by $30k~

    • Upvote 1
  8. You may notes to heart wheels, but he idea the adobe warehouses not correct. I have a friend who brought one from up north, knowing nothing about boats, didnt get a survey against all our advice because he read on the Internet that surveyors don't know what they are talking about re FC,, and didn't inspect it himself either, not knowing what to look for and having read a post like your son the Internet, thinking the bad ones were gone and they are cheap to fix. A couple of friends (commercial skipper and marine engineer) helped him bring it down the coast. They hit some moderate rough weather, and had numerous failures of engine, electrics and rig due to poor amateur build and fit out. A couple of weeks after it arrived, it came out of the water. Water blasting made several holes into the hull, including one about 12" long and 5" wide into the hollow and open to the hull keel. The owner found someone who knew FC to help him fix it, they started to chip back to find good steel but could not, it was all rusty and the hole was getting bigger . They twisted the new steel around the old as the could not weld to it, bogged it and put it back in the water. Every time it came out it was bleeding rust from many places. Inside and outside the hull. Never found good steel on repair. My friends were lucky to make it down the coast without major incident. After a few years, the owner had learnt enough I think it started to scare him so he sold it. Yeah the repairs he did didn't cost much, but were they reall repairs? Or just delaying the outcome...

     

    On another note, I know the owners of a nice FC boat in the marina here, I'll ask them who they are unsured with as the marina must require it.

  9. I don't disagree Madyotttie, in fact, I would likely choose a n22 for myself, but for racing reasons than cruising - they are faster and have OK class racing. Still think the Farr is better for cruising. Agree on the layout effecting space also, the Farr has narrow side decks, so they don't cut in on head room, and at 6'6" I found the Farr ok, can also lay flat in the fore peak, which I though was amazing for a 6m boat, it doesn't always happen on a 10m boat.

    I would say 8hp would be nice for cruising a f6 in the sounds, you will (almost) always get home. 4 is a bit small. My boat has a 5hp, it weighs less than a F6, and has less windage, there have been a few occasions where with all sails below deck we have been barely making head way. Although when that's happened, it's been 'quite' windy.

    The boat in Nelson sure would be a good place to start.

     

    Cordia Turbo - nice.

  10. The boat will weigh around 900kg ready to sail, with all normal sailing equipment. Many of the Farr 6 trailers were alloy rather than steel, so lighter and no rust or galvanising to worry about. So all up boat and trailer weight say 1200/1300kg? Plus your food & clothes etc. Happy to be corrected by anyone re weight? Another plus with the Farr is the pop top- the cabin top lifts about 30cm to give 1.8m ish of head room. They are quite roomy inside for their size, more so than the Noelex 22 I think.

    As a kid we would holiday for a month in the Able Tasman over summer, family of four. Was great. There were about 30 or 40 other boats doing the same, mostly n25, or Farr 6 or 7.5's I don't think you would do it in the young. Another possibility would be the Bonito Aquarius 22. I don't know a lot about them but they seem popular for cruising. There are a few bonito's in Waikawa you could look at, and I think there's still an old Farr 6 in the back compound. There's also a N25 and a few others you could look at to get an idea of size etc. there was a young, but I think it's gone, same with the N22.

    Check this out for the Farr6

    http://farrtraileryachts.org/farr-6000/

  11. Hi Damien?

    I grew up sailing on trailer yachts in the sounds, a Noelex 25 to be precise. I still race a trailer yacht here now, more on the sport end though (which I towed with a WRX for a while). I'm a member of the Waikawa boating club, and on the sailing committee. I can arrange a ride on Tuesday's, also Thursday is the adult learn to sail night, doing both would help you learn fast, if time does not permit, maybe Thursday's to start. Tuesday's are hard to learn because of time pressure on the race.

    I would think about this http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boats-marine/yachts/trailersailer/auction-1126287050.htm

    There was a fully done up one for sale here about 6 months ago, new sails, new squabs (comfy foam and covers) new cabin lining, new carpet, new cooker, all new electrics incl re-wired, good motor, good trailer, new Windows, you get the idea... Was for sale for a few months starting at 16k, sold for 13.5k. I only say this to suggest you should be able to negotiate this one down a fair bit too. I think the Farr will be more seaworthy in the sounds than the young, also has more space to sleep 4, the fore peak of the young looks small for sleeping even children. The Farr has a big fore peak, and a double can be made in the saloon, or just use the two big singles. There is a reason the Farr's and Noelex's are so popular.

    Anyway, if you want to meet, send me a PM.

    We are even sailing today at 1pm if you want to come for a ride...

    • Upvote 1
  12. After watching Gloriavale on TV this week, I know this was 'gods will,' restoring balance to the world.

     

    He just sent a selfie to the 3 wise men, sitting on a cloud some where with a smug look on his face, reading #Fixed it - one boat, one hull ????

     

    $20k does seem hopeful, was thinking the mast might still be good, but after reviewing the way it had to be removed in the pic in the first post - maybe not.

  13. Paul- I got a Gennaker prod from Ctech about a year ago. I asked for clear coat and they said they don't recommend it as the carbon won't last as long, and gave me a choice or black or white.

    I clear coated a mast a few years before that and was recommended a Carboline product as providing the best uv available in clear, sold the boat before I really got to find out, seemed pricey also.

  14. I guess like me Dambo, your at your keyboard working so you can afford to go sailing in a manner you consider safe, rather than going out there in a old run down boat, without much knowledge, skill or safety gear, and expecting others to help you or put themselves at risk for nothing, be it doing deliveries or fixing the motor... I'm still wondering what happened to the mullet boat.

  15. Erice and exTL, he is actually real, and everything his posts seem. I met him, on his last boat he made it to the South Island. Some foreign chap had helped him over the straight from welly, He was on a mullet boat with a sloop rig (in his profile pic). Last I saw he was leaving the marina (port company told him to leave as he couldn't afford to pay?) for nelson I think. He was paddling the mullet boat as the old outboard was stuffed (someone got it running in welly for him but it only lasted a few days), and had a friend in a dinghy trying to start a 2 horse, which also didn't run that I saw. He said he had some responses to his ads on here, but people that showed up to help would tell him he needed liferaft, flares Epirb etc. which he could not afford. His plan I recall was to have people sail with him until he could, then trip around nz living on the boat. I found and still find it a bit scary...

     

    Shane, what happened to the mullet boat?

  16. IT is right. Sorry wheels but you have misunderstood the operation of a VSR. When either bank gets to 13.8v (13.4 for the new DVSR) the vsr turns on. It stays on as long as the voltage stays above 12.8 (any charging stage will be above this) Once the charge stops, and the voltage falls to 12.8v, the VSR turns off again. The new DVSR also has a overcharge/high voltage cutoff and warning light. So the secondary bank won't also get damaged by the primary bank being overcharged.

    The next step 2 is a great reg. It needs to be installed 100% by the book, which is very specific. Yes if the field output jams on, the alternator will go full output. Would happen with any reg , internal or external. As IT said, there are a heap of them out there, one failure does not mean they are all bad. Between the people on this site, we could condemn every product from every brand, and likely every boat from every designer if one failure or issue was the thresh hold for such action.

    Ctek chargers are 4 to 8 step (essentially there are 3 charging steps and several others for analysis, recond, desulphation etc. and I think they are great. No made up marketing, just sound research and a good product. Very low failure rate good warranty period and support.

  17. If the VSR doesn't say dual sense, it's not dual sense. If the VSR was on with only the solar charging, either the VSR is sensing the house bank (possibly the alternator is connected to it also and not the start bank?), or the VSR didn't turn off since the engine last ran, the voltage has to get down to 12.8 for the VSR to turn off. I would just use two DVSR's (new digital model, dual sense). Anything can charge anything, gives redundancy if you have an issue, also means solar will keep both start banks up.

  18. hi, i was talking to a guy today who is fixing up a cherub his dad built in the 70's (I think). Trouble is he has the original wooden mast and 70s sails. Can anyone out there help with some more modern gear? maby even a genniker? I dont think it needs to be carbon or kevlar, a good alloy mast and some more modern dacron sails would be an excellent start. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP!!!!!!

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