mattm

Seems to me there is a disconnect between the words and the intent. Other than the title of that section of rules reading ‘Steering and Sailing’, I can’t see anything that says the proper lookout excludes anchored boats. It says ‘all boats at all times’. So, if we accept MNZ’s ‘new’ interpretation, does ‘all boats ant all times’ also include boats on swing moorings? Pile moorings? Marina berths? Where does it end? Hardstand, trailer? That’s surely not the intent, but the intent is not spelt out even poorly, let alone well.

Unless he wants work done by a pro - gas or AC he can’t do himself, then it is far cheaper at a marina, assuming he can find a tradie who would come to his mooring to compare the cost too anyway - it takes much longer to get to the boat, to return for extra bits or tools, and it typically risks getting the tradies gear wet on the dinghy ride, which is unpopular.

You will have NZ laws and regulations to deal with also. You are not allowed to DIY AC electrical work, so will need to pay a qualified AC electrician, who will likely want to supply the parts too. Same for any LPG work. Also, any AC electrical item must be approved as complying to NZ rules. If no one has imported the exact item before, it won’t be complied. If it doesn’t have an NZ plug on it, it doesn’t comply even if the model has been approved with a NZ plug. Perhaps no one will check, so you will get away with it unless the item causes an issue. This applies to gas appliances also, so ag

One other thing to think about is power. Many of the boats in your budget will have very old electrics, does it need a rewire? Does it have an electrical wof for plugging in at a marina from time to time? Are there enough batteries? How will you charge them? Unlikely to get a genset, so you’d rely on solar and the main engine. How much space is there for solar? You maybe need quite a bit, $1k+? Would you need to have a solar arch built? +3k more? Then you’ll still need the main engine, standard regulator on factory alternator? That’ll need quite a few hours at idle, or even at crusing revs to

I have read some but not all the novels written on your various posts. I think your budget is way too low for what you want to do. And your ideas still seem very scattered for someone giving themselves 2 months to buy from your position. A boat in your budget will likely have many major systems on the brink. Any one of them could need half of your budget plus to remedy. You say you have more money to fix, I’d tend to be looking at buying the best you can afford, not buying cheap and fixing, which will cost more in the end for certain. Imagine two boats of the same design and age are for

There are only a few that meet the standard for marine installations. This rules most if not all of the cheap ones out. The only ones I’ve seen in NZ are Mastervolt, Victron and the more expensive Juice ones. There may be others now, I haven’t kept up lately. The main trait that rules the others out is that they need to sound an alarm before the battery management turns off for any reason. The cheaper ones have no output for this. The Mastervolt ones have an Ethernet output to connect an Easyview5, for example, that will sound an alarm, and also a high / low voltage output signal to trigger an

It’s a B&G, 508 model by the looks. 608’s look the same and use the same bearing, mast cable and base. The complete 608 unit is still available as a spare.

Agreed Screwball. Who ever said 13.8v kills them doesn’t know what they are talking about. Their own alternator supplies over 14v. Actually, reconsidering, maybe they do know what they’re talking about….

Your not suggesting that the east coast would be a good idea for the race are you? The navy have said their boats got bashed going round there to help. An incident requiring assistance (from a Provence in a SOE) would be a PR disaster for a race which has good PR and reputation, and for sailing / sailors in general. From Katana’s blog - hardly sounds like he’s in race mode. 4knsb Tue Feb 28 2023 The other advantage of going slow is to avoid damage if I hit a log. Just seen a few big ones. Had hoped 30nm offshore would be safe…mmm East Cape Wed Mar

Yeah, just call TCC and do as they say. They do heaps, and just get stuff done.

You think he’ll be able to calibrate it IT? Speed shouldn’t need it, but direction almost always needs a tweak. I’d be skeptical that he’d be able to calibrate the B&G wind via a Garmin display.

Agreed HT, but I read this as he wants to keep the boat on the tidal morning permanently, and the ‘further out’ mooring is until the beach legs are sorted? Is that the plan Finns? Are you hoping to have the boat naturally sit on the legs between every tide?

I like the Victron stuff to, but understand not wanting to spend so much in your circumstances. Just remember, in a 12v circuit, an mppt controller does not give its best efficiency (any/much greater than a pwm??) unless you have 2 x 12v panels in series, or a 24v panel. From a victron manual: Recommended number of cells for highest controller efficiency: 72 (2x 12V panel in series or 1x 24V panel).

Don’t have mine with me at the moment, but I can tell you there is also a 9v battery in the box. Needed to power the sensor during programming, so it’s not just connecting the wires. I’m picturing a small circuit board too, but can’t be sure on that at all.

The wired wind sensors and kits normally come with the GND10 IT, as the nexus output of the sensor does not plug into the displays, which are nmea2000. If you mean the wired one, and you have a GND10, you just network everything with NMEA2000 and wind will show up on the Vulcan. BUT, you can’t calibrate the wind sensor without a Garmin display of some sort at least temporarily connected, if not permanently in the system. I have a Vulcan plugged to a Gwind instrument kit on one of my boats, with the Garmin display still used, I will change it all out to BnG, the Triton2’s are a much nicer