mattm

There are only a few that meet the standard for marine installations. This rules most if not all of the cheap ones out. The only ones I’ve seen in NZ are Mastervolt, Victron and the more expensive Juice ones. There may be others now, I haven’t kept up lately. The main trait that rules the others out is that they need to sound an alarm before the battery management turns off for any reason. The cheaper ones have no output for this. The Mastervolt ones have an Ethernet output to connect an Easyview5, for example, that will sound an alarm, and also a high / low voltage output signal to trigger an

It’s a B&G, 508 model by the looks. 608’s look the same and use the same bearing, mast cable and base. The complete 608 unit is still available as a spare.

Agreed Screwball. Who ever said 13.8v kills them doesn’t know what they are talking about. Their own alternator supplies over 14v. Actually, reconsidering, maybe they do know what they’re talking about….

Your not suggesting that the east coast would be a good idea for the race are you? The navy have said their boats got bashed going round there to help. An incident requiring assistance (from a Provence in a SOE) would be a PR disaster for a race which has good PR and reputation, and for sailing / sailors in general. From Katana’s blog - hardly sounds like he’s in race mode. 4knsb Tue Feb 28 2023 The other advantage of going slow is to avoid damage if I hit a log. Just seen a few big ones. Had hoped 30nm offshore would be safe…mmm East Cape Wed Mar

Yeah, just call TCC and do as they say. They do heaps, and just get stuff done.

You think he’ll be able to calibrate it IT? Speed shouldn’t need it, but direction almost always needs a tweak. I’d be skeptical that he’d be able to calibrate the B&G wind via a Garmin display.

Agreed HT, but I read this as he wants to keep the boat on the tidal morning permanently, and the ‘further out’ mooring is until the beach legs are sorted? Is that the plan Finns? Are you hoping to have the boat naturally sit on the legs between every tide?

I like the Victron stuff to, but understand not wanting to spend so much in your circumstances. Just remember, in a 12v circuit, an mppt controller does not give its best efficiency (any/much greater than a pwm??) unless you have 2 x 12v panels in series, or a 24v panel. From a victron manual: Recommended number of cells for highest controller efficiency: 72 (2x 12V panel in series or 1x 24V panel).

Don’t have mine with me at the moment, but I can tell you there is also a 9v battery in the box. Needed to power the sensor during programming, so it’s not just connecting the wires. I’m picturing a small circuit board too, but can’t be sure on that at all.

The wired wind sensors and kits normally come with the GND10 IT, as the nexus output of the sensor does not plug into the displays, which are nmea2000. If you mean the wired one, and you have a GND10, you just network everything with NMEA2000 and wind will show up on the Vulcan. BUT, you can’t calibrate the wind sensor without a Garmin display of some sort at least temporarily connected, if not permanently in the system. I have a Vulcan plugged to a Gwind instrument kit on one of my boats, with the Garmin display still used, I will change it all out to BnG, the Triton2’s are a much nicer

No. No he’s not. At 14 knots of wind and 9.1 of boat speed on a 52’ boat? The jib sheet runs aft from the low friction ring. The line he holds runs to the foredeck hatch, likely to the kite?

As far as inverters go, a piece of toast will take a certain amount of energy to toast. It won’t matter if you have a 500w toaster or a 1000w, it’ll just change the amount of time required, with perhaps some difference to depth of toasted-ness. Same as a jug element for boiling water. The only way to save power would be to use white bread, not Vogel’s. I’d stick with gas for toasting.

What are you saying the issue is with the charge current to two seperate banks being unequal?

CD, the DBC type is one physical switch, that effectively has 3 switches inside it, so it’s for both house, start and parallel functions. https://www.bepmarine.com/en/p/772-dbc-ez

The old 1/2/both ones aren’t that good in my opinion(and most others). With normal wiring configuration your picking which battery does all jobs, there’s no separation of loads (there are other ways to wire them if you have more than one 1/2/b switch, but I think it’s typically unnecessary complication). The modern (3ish years old or less) Dual Battery Control (DBC) switches are good, operate similar to a 3 switch system but take less space. You’ll know the difference, the 1/2/b has 3 main studs on the back (some had 2 extra small ones for alternator field control), the DBC has 4. The Mar