mattm
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Posts posted by mattm
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I’d try a metal tube, big enough to slide a loop of something down the inside to stick out the end and form a big loop, long cable ties might be good, maybe heavy fishing nylon. Drop the tube down the dipstick hole, and try lasso the end of the stick. Cables ties could be done in a way that the loop tie could be tightened once the stick lasso’d, and the pipe pulled off to allow more room to pull the stick out the hole. Maybe a bit of 10mm hose with a bend in it to stir the tank round to find and move the stick. Could take a while, depends on the size and shape of the tank, but would have to be better than removing the motor?
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13 hours ago, Vivaldi said:
Thanks IT - I’m just wanting to replace a couple of old cockpit speakers -I think they are 6.5 inch but I’d need to check - one of them has stopped working. Based on Mattm recommendation I thought I’d go with JL (depending on price and availability of course 😀
Be worth measuring the hole you need to fill, and the overall size you need to hide existing screw holes etc. Also, if you have room to go a few mm bigger if needed. Not all 6.5’s are the same, and the way JL measures them is different to other brands - their 6.5” is typically smaller diameter overall.
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11 hours ago, B00B00 said:
The signature range fusion speakers are also very good. Can be brought at burnsco or marine deals. I have run them for a while and they pump out damn good sound. Haven't heard the JL ones but I'm sure these are comparable and likely a bit cheaper.
If I hadn’t heard JL, I’d probably be saying the same. If you haven’t heard JL, you may not miss the difference. The Signature stuff is certainly the best stuff Fusion has ever made. But it’s not the same.
Fusion has been brought by Garmin, so you’d possibly find better pricing from a marine electrician who is a Garmin dealer, than B or MD. It’s very seldom that either of their pricing is particularly good, except maybe on end of line / discontinued stuff at MD, otherwise, on electronics, a lot of the time their ‘why pay’ price is way above RRP, and ‘their price’ is often full RRP or sometimes even above too! If anyone wants to compare, I’m happy to oblige.
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Hard to go past JL audio’s marine speakers for sound quality. I’ve done several installs of JL stuff now, all you can do at the end of the install is choose a good song, set a decent volume, and stand in the cockpit smiling like a moron at how good it sounds.
From memory of the training I did with a JL tech from the US, rather than ‘marinising’ a car speaker (which are designed to sound good in enclosed spaces like in a car) they have started from the beginning and designed speakers that are made to be outside in open air, and without a specific sized box behind them. They sound amazing. Better even than the Bose marine speakers I’ve installed too, and a much easier install due to not having the box enclosure on the back like the Bose ones have.
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My (very modified) 830 has runners and split top mast on the same line into the cockpit - so they’re pulled on together. The clutch is about where the driver sits, so I can release, or someone sitting forward of the traveller can. They’re winched on when needed using the windward primary - I don’t have self trackers, and use primary winches on the coamings for jib trim. I can manage them while driving short handed. Let off and pull on to hand tight, then a bit of a winch if required once things are under control.
The way mines setup, I don’t have to worry about the mast falling down without them. I’ve raced a bit lately without having them more than hand tight to keep them out of the way.
Maybe time for a change to the rig setup?
Can send pics of mine if you like?
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Take the 3 screws out of the end cap and pull the cap off. Then take the 2 long machine screws out - they go right through. That will allow the end caps to come off. You should be away then. I’d not take the pole shoes out (the bolts around the sides), just mask off the ends well enough to survive sandblasting the rust off.
Make sure you back up the bottom nut when tightening or loosening the cable lug nuts.
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Thanks for the reply’s, I’ll keep them in mind. The drainage system looks pretty good, but from what I’ve been told, not perfect. I guess it’ll only be an issue on coastal races, as there’s no swell in Waikawa, and seldom waves that would seem big enough to be an issue.
Rats, I’m struggling to picture how you used the rudder bearing, maybe it’ll make sense once I’m looking at the setup.
Splat, Waikawa has a new boat that I’ll have some level of involvement with, yet to be determined, other than the delivery to start with.
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Whats the best way? Boat is a Thompson with a canting prod. What’s the best permanent or temporary solution for sealing the hole somewhat? We have a coastal delivery coming up, in which we may want to use the prod, then just in general?
I’ve seen various rubber boots, seem to be either stuck to the hull at the base of the prod, or a rubber boot that stays on the end of the prod. Are either of these suitable for a canting prod, what are they called and who sells them?
I haven’t seen the boat yet, so I don’t have photos or specifics.
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On 9/10/2021 at 8:22 PM, straycat said:
solidly built in GRP with no inside liningAgree there are some voids but you get that in older well used boats.
It is only cosmetic but does devalue the boat, and possibly let water in.
I cannot understand the rationale behind so much unnecessary hammering on what can be a fragile surface.
None of us were there to form a real opinion, and I’d be looking for answers if my boat ended up like that too. But, seen as you’ve asked, it’s easier for anyone to join either side. To play devils advocate-
You do understand the ‘delamination’ surveyors are looking for are bubbles which have formed within the layup, not between the hull and an internal liner?
Also, how does being well used cause voids in the layup? Are you saying previous damage and repairs have left voids in the hull layup? I’d want to know about that if I was buying your boat.
If it lets water in, it’s not cosmetic.
As there shouldn’t be such voids, the hull shouldn’t be so fragile. Other than by the stanchion, each hole seems to have a void behind it, which would cause it to be far more fragile than it should. He is looking for deeper blisters than just under the gelcoat, so can see why he’d be hitting hard enough to crack a layer of gelcoat with nothing / little behind it.
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24 minutes ago, Black Panther said:
I've often thought a good rule for any regatta would be "the whole crew shall sleep and take meals on board for the duration of the regatta. "
Then get rid of all the other silly stuff referring to accommodation.
That might exclude more people of advancing years, rather than boats with no ‘traditional’ accomodation. Plenty of space in a sport boat cockpit.
I’m also not coming to your Foiling Moth regatta.
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I’m not well versed in the politics of the NZTYA, but I think this apartment distinction of ‘sport trailer yacht’ somewhat muddies the water. My understanding is you are either accepted as a TY (and comply with the TY rules, including outboard size), or you don’t. Sure, some that are accepted are more sporty than others - the Elders, Thompson’s, The Boss, Unleashed etc. but they are accepted as TY’s, have a rating, and a required min outboard size. The rest, don’t/aren’t measured, so aren’t (currently) considered TY’s - they may be yachts that live on trailers, but TY is actually a class, with its own rules.
Aviemore does have a sport boat div, although it’s often only one or two boats. There has been a few different Shaw 650’s, last time there was a T870. Some years, a Noelex 30 has won the sport boat div, as it doesn’t (didn’t?) measure as a TY, so that was the only div it was allowed in.
I hope the apparent change of max width will allow more boats like T750’s and Deep Purple etc to comply and join in. -
3 hours ago, 44forty said:
That looks like a bi-turbo elder ?
It is an Elder, yes.
3 hours ago, Deep Purple said:That's very cool thanks Matt. New halyards are in process with a drop in size for the kite (sorry crew). Some good ideas there
Always amazes me how the NZTYS embrace the turbo elders despite their record of capsizes and sinkings but reject the north island designs of Shaw, Elliott and BBW (and probably others)
Then again if 2020 accounts and scarcity of published minutes are anything to go by it seems they do nought but spend more than they earn galavanting over the country.
Enabled by Yachting NZ to be sole arbitrator of the TY rules despite coming up with nothing in the latest regulation update, failing to address the void between similar boats racing in the same fleet under different sections or a growing movement and opportunity to cater for exciting boats that people want to sail. Can you imagine the NZ Multihull Club being the sole arbitrator of multihull safety regs in NZ with no oversight by YNZ? No wonder progressive TY fleets are leaving the NZTYS. Yet member or not, in order to race as a TY you have to succumb to their 40 year old rules and thinking
ooos thread drift
Having been well involved in the latest 2 Elder capsizing events, I can say they weren’t overly the boats fault. In the latest one, winds of over 60 knots were recorded. The boat had sailed through sever of such gusts at the point it was decided to pull the pin. The boat was hit by a further gust, side on, with both sails partially down, and no steerage. A R780 capsized, a Thompson was swamped, and a mast or two broken. 14(?) MOB’s. The previous capsize, the boat was hit with a 40+ knot gust, with someone with little experience briefly on the helm while other jobs were tended too (changing to a smaller kite 😬)
Never heard of one actually sinking though?
I believe the rules were recently changed to allow a greater max beam, which will allow many more of the ‘sport boat’ style boats to comply? Albeit, without trapezes, with minimum size outboards, etc
The performance trailer yacht scene in the South Island is in quite good shape in my opinion. Many boats have new, younger and enthusiastic owners.
I saw your comment on FB about the drive time from you to Aviemore. We’re you serious? Should be a good turn out of boats worth racing against.
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4 hours ago, Black Panther said:
Those bunks are kinda narrow.
You need to really enjoy the after party to find them acceptable to sleep on.
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Not sure how much help this will be. But here is the setup I had. Blue halyard is the jib and its fine tune. Yellow with black in the clutch under the cabin top is the main halyard. The black halyard only visible at the bottom right of the mast post is the kite halyard, running back to come out of the cockpit floor, with the pole out line. This was before the fine tune for 0’s. There is also a wire and winch on the post for forestay tension.
Hope you sort your problem 👍
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Different direction than your considering, but my previous boat, a sports boat, had all halyards out the bottom of the mast, just an open hole of ~1.5”, through a matching hole in the mast base, to turning blocks attached to the mast post. Main halyard stayed inside, other ran through exit sheave on the cabin top, and back to the cockpit. Could you remove all your mast foot sheaves and copy that? It also allowed for a fine tune on the jib halyard, and one for the kite halyard to tension code 0’s.
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2 hours ago, Bittersweet89 said:
Cheers, thanks for that, just looking for a used set but may be better going new, what thickness is good for strength, possibly offshore?
I doubt many people are pulling windows out of Easterly 30’s (or any other design) that are in a state you’d want to be re-using them. Especially, as IT says, as they are not that dare new.
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I’m in the process of replacing windows on a Noelex. I have taken them all out, and will take them to a place that deals with Perspex and have them cut a new set, then I will refit - using the right type of sealant, or possibly tape (fault with the existing windows - the wrong sealant was used and it let go and they all leaked)
If your not in a position to have all the windows out for several days, maybe buy a sheet of Perspex, remove, cut and refit one at a time yourself?
Unless your windows are glass, then I assumed you’d need to remove them and take them to a glass place to be copied?
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6 hours ago, Winter said:
Ordered one a day ago from Beacon, who had to work pretty hard to get Navico to admit that it was a real spare part. Apparently not anymore.
They sold me their last one for $200 🤬
Ouch.
I brought their ‘last one’ a couple of years ago too - that was dealing straight with Navico as I’m a Navico dealer.
It does seem very strange these are not a common spare part, especially as the TP’s are a current item. I might talk to them again.
I have subsequently found the plug, socket and cap from the original manufacturer, which are available as seperate items at comparatively very reasonable prices. They just need the power and NMEA wires soldered to them (could even do a devicenet plug rather than the simnet plug I suppose) - not hard. Sorry I didn’t see your post sooner.
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Hi s this for when you’re on the boat, or away from it?
Will the lower holes be at the very bottom edge to stop water accumulating between the sheets?
Depending how much you want, not sure that setup will allow much airflow, especially if there is no other opening into the cabin.
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The 4 numbers it gave are the % of the total height of the tank you entered (370), at which the tank is 20, 40, 60 and 80 % full.
So at 31% of the 370 deep, the tank is 20% full.
As for the operation, if you’re confident you connected and wrote the programming to the sender correctly - you should be able to connect and read your settings back off it, then you might need to start with a volt meter and check what’s happening at the relevant wires.
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Thanks DP. So it’s as simple as the horn toots when the button is pressed?
Yes HT, but my task isn’t related to what ‘real sailors’ might do. It’s to find a new horn / horn system for the new boat. Sound signals are quite useful, and I’d like the system used to be both loud, thus clearly audible from a distance, in a breeze, and no more taxing on the committee boat crew than reasonably necessary 👍
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What are the clubs using as start boat horns? Loud haulers? Chrome horns?
Anyone know of a club using something a bit smarter in terms of automatic 5, 4, 1 go signals? Such as the Autohoot, sailbot, Ollie Horn or Regatta Pro Start?
I’m trying to find the best option for a new boat being built for the club I belong to. It would be nice to find a locally available option for automated tooting.
Shy of importing something from the US or EU, or making a tone generator for a loud hailer myself, it’s hard to see a good option, other than just a pair of horns and a button.
If there’s nothing around, would there be much interest from clubs in getting something suitable & cost effective made or imported?
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As I understand, it was purchased by the developer. If you buy a section in the development, it comes with the right to access and use the wharf, which they have done a significant amount of work to repair.
I think there is also a council bylaw that says anyone is allowed to load / unload passengers onto any private wharf. If you were to do that onto the x Jorgies wharf, you’d have to walk down the beach to the road, as you wouldn’t be allowed access across the private land that was the yard.
Rudder Bushings - Labour estimate
in TechTalk
Posted
Ahh…. Right…..
So if you went to a business that had 20 staff, which might all get involved in a major project, but your job will require 2, would you like a rate for ‘his business’ services’ same as the job needing all 20 staff, or per person on your job?
If you think that meant he was ripping you off, I feel bad for him.