mattm
-
Content Count
388 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Media Demo
Forums
Gallery
Calendar
Store
Posts posted by mattm
-
-
On 25/04/2020 at 1:28 PM, ScottiE said:
YNZ's focus has definitely changed so I'm not sure I entirely agree with you. Traditionally you are correct but a quick look at the history of constitution shows that since about 2012 YNZ has begun to alter its focus from what's percieved as "just Olympic classes" or racing, to include recreational boating "advocacy" as described on their website.
wrt to recreational boaties we have these two which look like they came in when the constitution was redrafted 2012 - "To represent and promote the interests of its Members; TO advocate for free access to coastal and inland waters for yachting and boating;"
Re-reading Dave A's comment on the 22nd, I think that I was wrong to include YNZ not lobbying, they at least tried to get our case across in some form.
Actually, I’d suggest the changes on the website and YNZ’s constitution were brought about by complaints from clubs rather than YNZ changing their ways.
The club here has had various discussions with YNZ over charging non racing members (maybe 5/6ths of membership) a fee for over 20 years now. It was brought to their attention, I think at a YNZ agm, that the people they claim to represent - launches and cruisers, were not mentioned in YNZ’s constitution at all, any where, even once.
Changing their website is fine, have they actually changed their behaviour? Examples?
I can’t see anywhere in DA’s speil where he has advocated to anyone on behalf of cruising boats. I only read ‘sport’ and racing related advocacy, mostly regarding dinghies. Not that I think we should necessarily be boating in level 3. I just think our national body should have a position on it. Maybe do what other governing bodies are and come up with procedures that would make boating safer at level 1 & 2 and provide those to Sport NZ, in the hope that gets boating the green light a soon as practical. I also think if they claim to advocate for a group of people, and charge them an annual fee to do so, then they should do it.
This is likely the absolute best opportunity they will have this decade to advocate on behalf of a somewhat disgruntled group of their membership, and prove they are at least trying to do something on their behalf to proved a path or some certainty to that part of boating, but they haven’t really lifted a finger. Have they?
-
1
-
-
10 hours ago, Sabre said:
The YNZ link on Deep purples post previous page is worth a read
Yeah I did real it. Before I made that post too. What did I miss (genuine question Sabre, interested in the discussion and open to having my mind changed)?
My take away from the YNZ release was, that YNZ have only considered and advocated for the sport of yacht racing, no mention of cruising was given. Which is sad. My local club is a boating club, not just racing. YNZ insist on all members, non racing yachts and launches included, paying the YNZ levy. They say they do advocacy work on behalf of these members. Although until recently pointed out the them, their mission statement was much like this press release, no mention of launches or cruising at all, and bias toward high performance and dinghy racing, rather than keel boats or general sailing. They also didn’t have a whole lot of examples of work done for that particular group of fee paying members that I saw. This would have been a prime opportunity for them provide an example of what they say they do, even though it would again, not likely change the outcome of no boating, at least those members might feel they had a voice representing their interests. This has been an issue for my local club and several others for quite a while now. Those members see the YNZ fee on their membership bill, and say, ‘I’m not a yacht’, or ‘I do not race’, I get nothing, why should I pay. Somewhat hard to argue....
-
Yeah good post Fish.
Kicking it is for sure the priority. I guess I just want the reasons they use to be as transparent as they claim their government to be. Using trumped up numbers to justify things make the sport look bad and creates bad will. I’d imagine the true reason boating is on the no go list, is just the general amount of to-ing and fro-ing it would cause across towns and cities, which seems logical and would be ok. But don’t say you can’t go for a few nights on your moored boat, well prepared, because your a liability and the coastguard won’t be there, as for the absolute majority of trips, that’s simply not true.
-
38 minutes ago, Fish said:
Sounds like a bad case of PR smoke and mirrors to me.
Personally I'm pissed off, cause that press release made it sound like there were a load of boaties out breaching the lock down, and nine of them got sick requiring emergency assistance and evacuation.
CG need to change their tag line from 'Saving Lives at Sea' to 'Saving lives on Waiheke..'
I hope this type of call out for CG isn’t used as part of their ‘we assisted x number of people last year’ therefore you shouldn’t go boating call.
-
That’s well out of order from CG. They shouldn’t be getting involved in politics, which is what I see this as. They are intentionally misleading people, as you’d easily assume those rescues were off boats, to aid their lockdown / no boating narrative. They should be more like Dr Bloomfield, rather than an MP. Facts, rather than spin.
-
1
-
-
Yep,I questioned him once and got black listed,was interested on a jack Cropp about 5yrs ago,didnt like my question
You mean the one that’s still for sale, as a Farr built in 1990, albeit for about Alf the original price?
-
I’ve had 3, brought them all from people who hadn’t used them in decades. Fresh fuel and they all ran. Still have a 5hp, a few years back we used it 3 days a week to go fishing - trawling for kawai in fact, would turn it off every time we caught one and restart it after. Never rowed home. Same old spark plug, never broken a shear pin either. They do need a heap of oil though, quite smokey. I might get it out today and give it a go if it stops raining.
-
Certainly seems like a case where buying it is the cheap bit, you would need a maintenance budge substantially larger than the purchase price suggests you can afford, at which point maybe the interior is not as comfortable as you could afford elsewhere.... Could be a hard sell even at what seems a very low price for that much boat.
-
I agree. As far as I know, and from talking to police, coastguard and firefighters, there were no injuries. Several people were treated for hypothermia on site, but most of the ones I saw treated got cold while sorting out the Thompson by the beach. No one was taken away by ambulance and all boats are fixable. The event in the past has seen many broken masts, capsizes, boats on the rocks or even sunk. The competitors know what they are signing up for, and most have been going for many of the races’ 26 years. There were about 50 boats out, who all got hit by many big squalls for about an hour, everyone was nearer the bottom of the lake when it hit, heading back to the top, away from any launching ramps, everyone made it ashore safely, all bar 3 with their boats, with those 3 all back by dark. The lake itself is exposed, but there are a few incredibly sheltered small inlets around the lake with launching ramps, that the boats went into.
The boat in the stuff pic is the one in my profile pic. Top speed for the weekend was about 17 knots.
-
a couple of minutes to choose most fitting pics for sailing story
to be fair the top pic probably came from a more recent story, perhaps even from someone in the race
stuff currently running fresher pics
Yeah Erice, I was on that boat, that pics from he event, but about 4 hours after the wind squalls that caused the issues. We were capsized by a huge squall, a Ross 780 was also capsized and the keel fell in. A Thompson 750 with canting keel capsized and righted but was swamped. I saw one boat with a broken mast, but by the time we got back to the main ramp, most boats had gone home, there were quite possibly more.
On the boat in the pic, We saw the squall coming, after watching a different one take out the Thompson, and started lowering sails, but didn’t have enough time. 3 out of 5 crew ended up swimming in the capsize, the waters about 10 degrees. We started getting picked up after about 10 minutes of sitting on the hull, one crew with potential hypothermia. Someone said they saw wind up to 60 knots, it was certainly over 40 where we were, hard to judge from an upturned boat after that. Spray was being lifted solidly over large areas of the lake, apparently stones were flying around in the car park. There wasn’t much we could do until the wind calmed down, and the boat was well out in the lake and holding position. We were dropped back at shore so the rescue boat could tend others. In the stuff photo, that’s about 4 hours later, the boat self righted with no one around, and was drifting toward the lee shore, slowly as the hull was partially swamped, but main still partially up. We came straight back when we saw it right, we got it under tow, tidied up the sails, bailed for about 2 hours. Boats back on the trailer, no hull, rig or foil damage, outboards running, slight rip on the bolt rope on the main, one rope cut and a drowned cell phone. We feel we’ve learnt more about the boat, and it will be modified more to reduce the likelihood if this happening again, and to reduce the consequences if it does. The work recently done along those lines is why it’s back on the trailer now though.
The Thompson got dragged on its side to the beach, aside from likely some gravel rash on the gunwale, it’s ok too. The Ross sustained some damage during the salvage, it was at the bottom end of the lake near the dam, the waves are big and wind funnels down there, but its back on the trailer also.
Aviemore can often be an unforgiving place to race. Forecasting is for the general south Canterbury area, predict wind, windy and all the other online forecasts had wildly different models. Some of which are what happened, not all, the lakes weather is known to be unpredictable.
-
1
-
-
Unless you have some training or decent experience, it’s not as easy to get right as it may seem. It’s also illegal to release the gas into the air. If you replace the compressor, you need to ensure the correct amount of oil is in the system. If you replace the compressor or the TX valve, you have opened the system, and should pressure test it with nitrogen to ensure no leaks. Nitrogen also helps pull any moisture out of the system, as even small amounts will freeze and block the TV valve, stoping refrigerant flow. After nitro test, you need to use a vac pump for at least 12 hours to empty the system of all nitrogen and moisture before re gassing, being careful not to introduce any air/moisture.
134a is very expensive now, as per IT’s link, about 70% govt tax to fund a program to have used gas destroyed safely, after its sucked out of systems with a special and expensive refrigerant reclaim machine.
Realcold refrigeration stock the TX valves, you’ll need the valve and an orifice to match, correctly sized for your system, it then needs adjusting once installed to make the system run the right pressures and have the right amount of flow. Don’t forget you need to change the drier and sight glass once you’ve had the system open.
Good luck.
-
Yeah available in both. Search Marlborough Sounds Cruise Guide. It was made by the council and launched maybe 2 summers ago to try and replace the old book of a similar name. It’s fairly handy, doesn’t replace the book imo, but still useful.
-
Quite often their why pay ‘x’, our price ‘y’ is a total have. When no one sells the item at x, and their price of y is actually above NZ rrp, let alone a good discounted price. As far as electronics go, and for the major brands, or B&G, Lowrance, Simrad, Garmin, they get no special pricing or buying power, other than buying bulk lots of end of line discontinued stock. I quite often check their prices when I’m quoting packages, and I’m astounded at how bad their pricing is.
-
The PDF you linked is from the 2014-2015 season, which is why it says the wrong frequency.
-
It changed to ch 18 last summer, during a bigger reshuffle of VHF frequencies.
I’ve always done it on my boat, and it’s always been done on every boat I’ve been through on. It seems smart to do, the opening is small, the current can be strong and waves suddenly much bigger, meaning you can spend much longer than expected getting through, and the ferries want it all to them selves when they go through. They will ask you to wait if your eta is close to theirs. They will also report you to the HM to be fined if you don’t call and are an issue.
-
1
-
-
The system on my boat is as you suggest IT, and it’s awesome. TP32, Vulcan plotter, triton instrument system, external compass and wireless AP remote. It drives the boat amazingly well, I can use the buttons on the TP or the full controls on the Vulcan to operate the AP, and the remote is great. It’s also handy to set it to wind angle, then set it to 0 degrees when dropping the main, doesn’t matter if the wind shifts, boat stays head to wind.
-
Being turned 90 shouldn’t matter, the tiller pilot doesn’t really need to know where north is, just a reference heading and weather it’s to port or starboard of that.
Shifting the connection further out the tiller will also make it turn the rudder slower, as it will need to extend further to make the same amount of change as if it were closer to the stock. Also, the turning circle being bigger, although I don’t see that as much of a benefit, but the ram will have more leverage. I’d think speed of turn would be a fair priority.
-
If your on Facebook, find the page called Picton online garage sale, on there, you will find a guy called Morris Burgess, he’s a local 2nd hand dealer, he normally has a selection of dinghies.
-
1
-
-
My boat has a new professional roll / tip finish. The painter had just moved to a new shed, they got in trouble after the first boat they sprayed as the shed didn’t have the correct air filtration. My boat was out of the water with the mast out ready to go in the shed. Rather than wait, they roll and tipped, with sanding between each coat. Must have added a. Sh1t load of labour to it. Fortunately they had quoted and stuck to their original price.
The outcome you wouldn’t know wasn’t sprayed, looks just the same.
Don’t pick an option based on it being cheap would be my advise though. To hand paint and get a great finish, you need good rollers, good brushes, good paint, the right thinners and plenty of time. There’s no cutting corners. To do a good wrap, you need to do much of the same prep, just like paint, the wrap won’t be better or last longer than what ever is under it. I’ve seen a few boats get wrapped thinking it just solved their issue of poor hull condition. Didn’t work out so well.
-
BOIGuy ????♂️
Is ‘Big Marine Electrical’ joining ranks with ‘Big Oil’ and ‘Big Pharma’?
None of the boat builders in my area have an electrolysis tester, therefore, don’t really know what is happening to a particular boat. Do the boat builders have electrolysis testers where your from? Do they go to the boat and test before lifting it out? And again a month or so after relaunch to see what’s happening? That’s what I do. As an electrician. The local boat builders seem to work on the idea ‘it’s all witch craft, and we’re scared or witch craft’.
You can’t make a proper determination just by looking at the boat once lifted, only a best guess, something major and obvious aside. You need routine electrolysis tests to get a thorough picture over time. Sure, if you have a major issue, you can pick it up with one test and fix it then retest.
Don’t need to bond the shaft? What if the only anode on the boat is on the shaft? Don’t bond the shaft, making the anode last longer, by allowing your engine to erode away? That sounds like a great option, new motors are cheaper than new anodes. Right? If only they made some small, cheap sacrificial metal thing to erode rather than the motor.
Electrolysis is already happening, flowing THROUGH THE WATER, that’s what it is. Bonding makes everything sit at the same voltage, like a battery with all the negative plates removed. No current will flow.
Winter, yip, that’s what I normally use. Bend it to have enough tension to make good contact, but not too much or they can scream when the motor runs. Check tension regularly.
-
You want him to remove the thing that pays the bills? ????
You seem to think if IT removes adds of currently paying advertisers, with products relevant to site users, that what, there’s a waiting list of others to throw money at him / crew.org? ????
More members will join because the advertising is irrelevant to boating? ????
Some of the suggestions, assumptions and correlations you make are quite left field.
Island time. While you are at it may I suggest that all boating advertising is not shown on small talk threads. It states "anything that is not boating related." I get sick off seeing boating advertising to the point I'm almost boating advertising blind and I think you will find you will get non boating related advertising on the site and probably more members joining, especially since the face book revelations . It is the only free website in the southern hemisphere with forums which included non boating threads. The other website is cruiser log which captures most of the worlds cruisers / boating owners, crew wanted and crew available for world sail / motor vessel ocean cruising, has a large Australian boating following.
-
I’m no expert in game fishing, no real knowledge at all. But why would you need outriggers when you have a mast?
Couldn’t you set up effectively flag halyard style lines up to the spreader tips, and the outrigger clips to the halyards, allowing you to pull them up to spreader height? I guess you would have less separation than actual outriggers, but less ugly and far less expensive.
Weather you could use reefed sails or not I guess would depend more on the wind speed, wind angle and desired boat speed, more than what’s easy to drop. Likely freely running slugs would be your best friend in getting the main down quick, and a furling head sail. Furling main too maybe for that matter.
-
Other than that it will have a recommendation of max battery capacity of about 150ah, assuming it has the correct charge rates for your batteries, nothing at all. The bigger one will charge faster, but in most cases that’s not very important.
Unless you want to run the fridge off the batteries while the boats at the dock, keeping the batteries full with the charger. Good chance that will stuff the batteries and the charger, after some time. But you have a power supply running the fridge, so no problem.
-
Simple answer lateral, the relay. At no stage is the 12v transformer output and the battery 12v feed joined. That’s what the changeover relay is for - it selects one feed or the other, and outputs that power only to the aux. socket Vic plugs his fridge in to. Wired up to prefer the transformers output when available.
What MCP suggests would work, as you as, as long as the changer is smart, and of sufficient size that the fridge cutting in does not kick it back into bulk / absorption stage, as that will damage the battery over time. The other issue, as I said earlier, is if shore power fails, the fridge is running off the battery, which will run down until very flat before the fridge cuts out. If you do the relay option, you can choose what side of the battery switch to wire the fridge feed to, if after the switch, the fridge won’t discharge the battery while the switch is off, if shore power fails.
If you own a transformer that can run your fridge, it’s a better system.
Boating now heavily restricted
in MarineTalk
Posted
From what I heard, 3rd hand, the guy was on the boat in the sounds pre lockdown. He remained in the sounds, on the boat, until he went home, to Wellington, where he and the boat live. He lives aboard permanent. Any issues with that?
Being that it’s a race boat, be hard to live on away from shore for as long as he did IMO.
Another non-story from NZ media, hence no fines / arrests.