mattm
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Posts posted by mattm
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My boat has a new professional roll / tip finish. The painter had just moved to a new shed, they got in trouble after the first boat they sprayed as the shed didn’t have the correct air filtration. My boat was out of the water with the mast out ready to go in the shed. Rather than wait, they roll and tipped, with sanding between each coat. Must have added a. Sh1t load of labour to it. Fortunately they had quoted and stuck to their original price.
The outcome you wouldn’t know wasn’t sprayed, looks just the same.
Don’t pick an option based on it being cheap would be my advise though. To hand paint and get a great finish, you need good rollers, good brushes, good paint, the right thinners and plenty of time. There’s no cutting corners. To do a good wrap, you need to do much of the same prep, just like paint, the wrap won’t be better or last longer than what ever is under it. I’ve seen a few boats get wrapped thinking it just solved their issue of poor hull condition. Didn’t work out so well.
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BOIGuy ????♂️
Is ‘Big Marine Electrical’ joining ranks with ‘Big Oil’ and ‘Big Pharma’?
None of the boat builders in my area have an electrolysis tester, therefore, don’t really know what is happening to a particular boat. Do the boat builders have electrolysis testers where your from? Do they go to the boat and test before lifting it out? And again a month or so after relaunch to see what’s happening? That’s what I do. As an electrician. The local boat builders seem to work on the idea ‘it’s all witch craft, and we’re scared or witch craft’.
You can’t make a proper determination just by looking at the boat once lifted, only a best guess, something major and obvious aside. You need routine electrolysis tests to get a thorough picture over time. Sure, if you have a major issue, you can pick it up with one test and fix it then retest.
Don’t need to bond the shaft? What if the only anode on the boat is on the shaft? Don’t bond the shaft, making the anode last longer, by allowing your engine to erode away? That sounds like a great option, new motors are cheaper than new anodes. Right? If only they made some small, cheap sacrificial metal thing to erode rather than the motor.
Electrolysis is already happening, flowing THROUGH THE WATER, that’s what it is. Bonding makes everything sit at the same voltage, like a battery with all the negative plates removed. No current will flow.
Winter, yip, that’s what I normally use. Bend it to have enough tension to make good contact, but not too much or they can scream when the motor runs. Check tension regularly.
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You want him to remove the thing that pays the bills? ????
You seem to think if IT removes adds of currently paying advertisers, with products relevant to site users, that what, there’s a waiting list of others to throw money at him / crew.org? ????
More members will join because the advertising is irrelevant to boating? ????
Some of the suggestions, assumptions and correlations you make are quite left field.
Island time. While you are at it may I suggest that all boating advertising is not shown on small talk threads. It states "anything that is not boating related." I get sick off seeing boating advertising to the point I'm almost boating advertising blind and I think you will find you will get non boating related advertising on the site and probably more members joining, especially since the face book revelations . It is the only free website in the southern hemisphere with forums which included non boating threads. The other website is cruiser log which captures most of the worlds cruisers / boating owners, crew wanted and crew available for world sail / motor vessel ocean cruising, has a large Australian boating following.
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I’m no expert in game fishing, no real knowledge at all. But why would you need outriggers when you have a mast?
Couldn’t you set up effectively flag halyard style lines up to the spreader tips, and the outrigger clips to the halyards, allowing you to pull them up to spreader height? I guess you would have less separation than actual outriggers, but less ugly and far less expensive.
Weather you could use reefed sails or not I guess would depend more on the wind speed, wind angle and desired boat speed, more than what’s easy to drop. Likely freely running slugs would be your best friend in getting the main down quick, and a furling head sail. Furling main too maybe for that matter.
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Other than that it will have a recommendation of max battery capacity of about 150ah, assuming it has the correct charge rates for your batteries, nothing at all. The bigger one will charge faster, but in most cases that’s not very important.
Unless you want to run the fridge off the batteries while the boats at the dock, keeping the batteries full with the charger. Good chance that will stuff the batteries and the charger, after some time. But you have a power supply running the fridge, so no problem.
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Simple answer lateral, the relay. At no stage is the 12v transformer output and the battery 12v feed joined. That’s what the changeover relay is for - it selects one feed or the other, and outputs that power only to the aux. socket Vic plugs his fridge in to. Wired up to prefer the transformers output when available.
What MCP suggests would work, as you as, as long as the changer is smart, and of sufficient size that the fridge cutting in does not kick it back into bulk / absorption stage, as that will damage the battery over time. The other issue, as I said earlier, is if shore power fails, the fridge is running off the battery, which will run down until very flat before the fridge cuts out. If you do the relay option, you can choose what side of the battery switch to wire the fridge feed to, if after the switch, the fridge won’t discharge the battery while the switch is off, if shore power fails.
If you own a transformer that can run your fridge, it’s a better system.
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If he uses a relay, he can run the relay output to his existing aux. socket, and leave the fridge plugged into that all the time. This is the cheapest and best option. Only parts needed are a >$10 relay and a few crimps, you end up with an automatic system. 12v fridge suppliers such as Fridgetech sell this system as an option with their fridges.
The charger route does work, but with some potential draw backs. First if shore power fails, the fridge flattens your batteries before it stops working. Second, if the charger isn’t big enough, the fridge load may keep it from staying in float charge, which will stuff the batteries. MCP’s charger is certainly big enough to prevent this.
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You can use a changeover relay. Wire it so the 12v feed from the transformer does 2 things - 1 turns the relay on, and 2, feeds the fridge through the now closed relay contacts. When that feed is disconnected - ie. no shore power, the relay turns off, and falls back to the other relay contact with the 12v battery power. You don’t need to do a thing that way.
May sound complex, but it’s about the easiest job you could ask a competent marine electrician to do.
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Talk to Fridgetech Marine in Auckland. They can sell you the correctly rated insulation, in a variety of thicknesses. They can also supply it with a plastic layer on one or both sides, which can be used as the inside liner of the box, just cut insulation/plastic sheets to shape, glue together, seal edges, box made.
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Prop speed the shaft, but not the anode - it won’t work of covered in prop speed.
To make the prop speed stick, you need to key the surface, ie. make it rough by sanding the surface, which will be bad news for the nice shiny surface.
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Racetrack only has 3 on record. Oldsmobile which is raced still in a Waikawa, Prawn Broker, which hasn’t had a race recorded on racetrack since 2016 in Aucklald, and Positive Touch, which hasn’t raced recorded since 2009, in Auckland also.
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A few reasons I’d say. Primarily, they are part of a business, AIS installation would add to expenses with no return of profit, so why would they?
Another reason may be pushback. The harbourmaster discussed forcing all commercial boats in the sounds to get AIS. At the time, the HM had been making a lot of noise about boats including commercial, exceeding speed limits. The thought was the harbour master would use AIS to sit in his office and send out fines for speeding. The commercial operators wouldn’t do it. It’s actually a consideration for many pleasure boats too. It seems silly, but when over summer, there was a ‘zero tolerance day’ you start to understand their view - one day over summer, during the local regatta, I saw a guy hiding behind a sign on the breakwater, peaking around the corner with a radar gun. The HM boat was waiting out of site, just inside the breakwater. I talked to a guy I know who works for the HM office, who said it was a MNZ thing, they send someone to each region once a season, and enforce the rules with ‘zero tolerance’.
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So there you go. I hope it isn't just me that gets frustrated at the way bureaucracy is going these days. Basically they say "you have to meet this standard, but I can't tell you what it is".
Nope. The way standards nz works seems crazy to me also. It costs hundreds, likely into the thousands to buy access to the electrical reg’s for boats, but the time you by the standard and all the others it references. Then the rules say something along the lines of, you can’t print out more than 10% of the standards you own, any thing printed must be destroyed after 7 days, anything downloaded must be removed from computer within, I think, 1 month.
Astounding.
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Paul, I normally cut and heat crimp the wires near the sensor which has been successful for me.
They are very sensitive to water, the way the sensor works dictates that.
Some do seem to fail for no reason, normally after a few years.also, the sensitivity of the sensor is calibrated at the factory, it would seem with some variation. I’ve seen them where perfume sets them off.
If in a remote place, with a faulty sensor, you could disconnect the sensor from the back of the control, you link the G and B terminals to make the control ignore that input. Same as if you only use one sensor, the second sensor G and B are linked from factory, the link is removed if your using two sensors.
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The ones BEP sell have an over ride function for that issue Jon. From memory you hold the test button in for 10 seconds - after ensuring it is a false alarm. I’ve not seen the bep ones shut off without alarming, I’ve seen a heap die from being wet. In theory, the green OK light turns to an orange fault light, rather than the red alarm light. Not sure on other brands.
Only issue then is the electrical solenoid valve failing. May still pay to carry a backup on longer trips.
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So they refuse to honour gift cards, and sell a bunch of stuff with no warranty or returns at questionably ‘discounted’ prices, then do a rebrand, as part of simply one owner buying out the other?
I’d have thought that might loose them a fair amount of good will around the place and hurt the business for a while, good location or not?
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I reckon if some of us were out there on the boat, we would understand why towing it somewhere wasn’t an option. For numerous reasons.
Massive shame to loose an awesome boat for a crew with big aspersions. Pleased the crew are safe.
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They must have been cursing the runabout, it seemed their wake and not being able to bare away because of them we’re the issues.
What an epic run otherwise, defining the boundary of control?
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I’d say he means more like this wheels. Which attaches to the battery. This one claims to be lithium cobalt, 24000mAh, 1000a peak current. It also has USB and a cig socket, as well as a light, I mention this, as interestingly, the specs say it can fully charge an iPhone 10 times, or jump start up to 40 motors ????
My work van battery died a sudden and total death two weeks ago, starter gave barely a click, I jump started it with this four times that day, 2.7l petrol, as well as a customers 500hp diesel, with a battery flat enough it would crank only for a moment, and charged my phone for a while. The pack still showed 3 from 5 lights worth of charge. My work van started faster with the dead battery and this than it does a new, oversized start battery.
I wouldn’t use it as the start battery on the yacht alone, but I can hand start mine if I wanted to save weight that badly anyway.
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Oneup
in MarineTalk
Looks like a great idea. Maybe should inflate a little bigger? I like that it can be thrown, as long as the thrower has decent aim, allows for extra time between mob and getting a life ring to them or not.
I always wonder about the big hard life rings, if you think someone’s in trouble, throw one of those at them and make sure of it....
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Side note, if cruise ships are taking sea water to make up for burnt oil, they won’t be letting it out in Picton as they don’t refuel here. The only other ships we get are log ships, which arrive empty and leave full, be interesting to know what they do re ballast, I think I recall seeing ships pumping water out in Tauranga as they load? Either way, the only fan worm I’ve heard of here is from pleasure boats, I know the guys who do the diving and the head of biosecurity at the council, was talking to him about it last week.
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The photo isn’t zoomed in, that’s almost the full length of a bulb on a 50’ boat. I don’t think any fan would has been found where the ships dock in Picton, but I believe it was 150 odd found in the marina under this boat, and a handful at one other spot in the marina - this boat triggered a new search. They find a few on different boats each year, but at the moment it seems to be under control. They dive all marinas and mooring fields every 6 months. The council have taken the GPS track log from this boat, and are having all ares the boat went / moored inspected - luckily only a couple of trips out.
As the boat was hauled out (no one aware of the issue at that stage) you could see the worms coming out of the tubes and falling into the water.
The marina normally advise people of the new antifoul within 6 months or wash within 1 month rule for incoming boats, but this owner already had the berth so the marina didn’t know he was arriving (from Auckland). Boat was effectively brand new.
IT, having boats in your marina checked may not stop it being in the marina, but how about stopping it spreading every time a boat goes out? Is it literally everywhere in the Hauraki? I guess so.
Be a bit sh*t if it turns out to smother scollop beds or something similar. It must compete for food with the natives?
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What’s the battery / charging system like? Genset or just main engine as main charge source? All good having a big inverter, but you need to be able to power it. Have you got the battery capacity to realistically run it engine off? Or would 1500w be engine in only? If engine on, 1500w could draw 130A+, can the alternator hack that, or would 5 mins of 1500w mean 30 mins of engine run to recharge the difference used. Is that what you want? What would you need to run that would make you ok with that? Does the boat have a smart (3 step) alternator regulator - great upgrade if thinking of heavy 12v loads / long trips.
IT has a good point re power tools, but I’ve seen a couple of boats who have brought 12v power tools, removed the batteries and put a lead and cig plug on them and run off 12v also. Seemed to work well.
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Pm sent
Wanted… Dinghy, wooden/glass in Picton.
in Classifieds
Posted
If your on Facebook, find the page called Picton online garage sale, on there, you will find a guy called Morris Burgess, he’s a local 2nd hand dealer, he normally has a selection of dinghies.