Chewing Gum
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Posts posted by Chewing Gum
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Hiding to nothing:
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The weather forecasts these days give a good indication of what you are likely to encounter heading north from NZ, perhaps a little less so for the return trip, but overall allow an informed decision.
Max" went to Fiji early July and came back mid August (not the preferred times) and had the odd bumpy day on both trips but no problems.
"Katariana" has just arrived from New Cal via Norfolk Is - they motored almost the whole way from Norfolk to Auckland
Yet in other years boats have experienced dreadful conditions voyaging in these same times.
Yes Katariana were using Predictwind and stopped at Norfolk for a Southerly to pass through. A good call !
On a previous return trip they weren't so lucky and got a bit of a pasting. Lesson learnt - Use every resource possible for weather and have no time constraints. We did NZ circumnav 2 years ago with very little bad experiences or on the wind stuff for exactly the same reasons - watch the weather like a hawk and move only when it dictates.
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From Dow Corning:
Q: Can Dow Corning silicone sealant/adhesives be used underwater? We do not recommend our silicone sealants/adhesives for continuous underwater use.
Q: Will your sealants adhere to hard to bond to plastics such as polyethylene, polypropylene, urethane, acrylic or PTFE? Normally, no, silicone sealants generally will not adhere to these substrates; however utilizing one or more of the following adhesion improvement techniques (chemical treatment, roughing the surface, corona treating the surface) may help. Always keep in mind, that even though they may not have great adhesive strength to these substrates, there might be enough adhesion for a particular application. Test the silicone sealant in your application prior to use.
Q: Will silicones break down from UV light and ozone? Silicones in general demonstrate great UV and ozone stability.
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There are two points Chewing Gum, firstly, your windows are glass, and secondly I would guess not too big, so the sealant you are using is very suitable. Acrylic on the other hand presents difficulties with adhesion, hence the need for Sika 209 primer which then needs the 295UV sealant for comparability reasons. Also, expansion and contraction of acrylic is huge compared to glass so it really needs a purpose designed tape/primer/sealant system at huge expense - unfortunately.
No I our windows are actually quite large, would easily be bigger than a H28 and the sealant is very flexible. Not sure about the adhesion to Acrylic but I would be surprised if it didn't stick - would be easy to test it. It is not easy to remove the glass I can assure you.
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Yes most race yachts come straight back in say June or July.
It is often windier in September and October down this way
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You don't need tape or expensive sealant.
Our boat is 12metre Lidgard with timber rebates and windows are glass. All that holds them in is Black Sika Silaflex MS (a modified silicone that is nothing like ordinary silicone sealant which is a no no). I think it is about $25 a cartridge from Placemakers. We just use wooden sticks propped against the safety lines to hold the glass for a couple of days until the sealant goes off. This boat has done trans tasman, around the pacific and a NZ crcumnavigation and twice down the west coast. Approx every say 5 years you need to replace the sealant as the UV gets to it. In the meantime they never leak. We use the same sealant (white) for all above water fittings, hatches etc. It is much better than the Sikaflex type sealants as it stays more flexible and you can remove fittings without wrecking your boat. Cleanup with meths but I like to use heaps of masking tape to avoid the mess. Usually I seal the wood with epoxy resin before fitting the windows.
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We have a very simple dripless seal which would be very little longer than a standard gland. It never leaks, has done thousands of hours and needs very little or no maintenance. It consists of a simple oil seal mounted in a free floating white plastic bush (looks like nylon or something similar to the sheave material in some blocks) with the oil seal spring replaced by a neoprene rubber o-ring. The plastic bush has a short length of rubber hose clamped to it and the stuffing box. There is a small (10mm) cooling hose from the saltwater cooling pump to cool the seal and a stainless grease nipple which gets a very occasional shot of grease. I have replaced the lip seal twice in 12 years but only as a precaution - it has never leaked one drop so we have totally dry bilges. Not sure who made this particular seal (came with the boat) but it does not look like a very expensive piece of kit to make. Having used the old packing type seals on other boats there is no way I would change back.
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Not at all. What I am saying is that I believe they are fighting a losing battle and the measures they are attempting are totally useless (happy to be convinced otherwise). Therefore the sooner it happens the sooner they will go away and leave us alone.
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I posted about this re cruise to BOI in March. The harbourmaster dived on our boat in Assassination Cove (good name !) while most of the other boats in the bay up anchored and scurried off before he could check them. He told me if our bottom was fouled we would have to have a compulsory haulout. I was not happy. Fortunately the bum was clean but this left a very sour taste. Who the hell do they think they are. This heavy handed approach is such a waste of time as BP has said. Makes as much sense as the silly lifejacket laws etc etc being foisted upon us.
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Yanmars are great, our one has been brilliant, touch wood but like Volvos the parts are expensive.
I have heard a lot of horror stories about Volvos but that was some time back, maybe they have improved.
Kubota sounds like a good option.
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Gebo are one of the best and don't leak unlike many others. Not cheap tho but worth it.
www.technicalequipment.co.nz
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Bolts are probably silicon bronze. If they were brass it wouldn't last 5 minutes.
Brass has no place on a boat.
I have never seen corrosion of lead like that, I guess it could be tanalised timber as wheels says causing the problem.
Anode on the lead could be worth a try.
We do have all our through hull fittings bonded to the anode - seems to work.
That bolt seems very close to the top of the lead, maybe it is just securing the wooden keel stub ?
A longer bolt would probably be a better bet (either silicon bronze or monel - not stainless or brass).
You could possibly fill the hole with lead ? (Clean existing lead back to shiny first and undercut so lead stays put)
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Yes they like most stuff on a boat wear out over time and need maintenance or replacement, but so far we have had a good run out of our unit and they are very easy to operate. My intention is when it does fail to chuck it out and get another as repair of old stuff in my experience is often false economy. I agree they are not cheap but what is in the boating world !!
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You run the engine to take a dump?????
Yes we do. Sounds crazy I know but used to it now and not a big deal. Less of a deal than the alternatives talked about here I think. We have an older model unit and if the engine is not running the low voltage light comes up on the Lectrasan panel. The newer units are quite different from what I understand. Anyway at dump time the batteries and the freezer normally need a top up so not a problem.
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We have a simple activated carbon caravan filter and have never cleaned our stainless tanks and have no problem with tasty water.
https://www.burnsco.co.nz/shop/shop/water-filter-hanmer-carbon
Replace the carbon about every 3 years
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I like the lectrasan myself, have had our present unit for 10 years with no problems. It is totally maintenance free except for a yearly flush with diluted hydrochloric acid. Like the previous poster we run the engine while operating the lectrasan because of the long cable run causing a bit of voltage drop but that is no hardship. No tipping stuff over the side or leaving a bay to empty the holding tank and no smells.
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If it is aluminium ie a RIB you would need something without copper
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These whale foot pumps are brilliant - forget the electric:
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We have a Raymarine Autopilot about 8 years old with electric ram connected direct to quadrant. We have done plenty of miles and practically never steer the boat. It is very accurate and quiet and has been totally reliable with very small current draw.
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have you looked at the predict wind system ?
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We done that trip twice, both times via the west coast going south and return the second time via the the east and a long time previous as far as Gisborne and return. As always make sure the weather window is good and you will have no problems. We have stopped at Tom Bowling Bay, Spirits bay, Kaipara, New Plymouth on the west coast and Mayor, White island, Hicks Bay and Gisborne on the East coast. As others have mentioned places on the East coast are plentiful in settled westerly conditions.
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Wood is good but must be properly built and maintained. If fresh water has got into it rot is a problem. Our boat is built in 82 from 3 skin kauri with ply decks and has no rot at all but is well maintained ie lots of dollars thrown at it and built by the Lidgards who have a reputation second to none.
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Ocean Inflatables
in MarineTalk
Posted
Southern Pacific is the go - you won't regret it