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Yourmomm

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Posts posted by Yourmomm

    Average annual swing mooring costs in auckland?

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Hi all. My northcote swing mooring (for an 8-12m boat) seems to be averaging a cost of around $1700 inc GST, every two years, to maintain and inspect. This seems very high to me, but i suppose theres not too many sanctioned engineers to choose from, and a lot of regulation. What are others' experiences of costs?

     

    Cheers

    Pelagic Autopilots, anyone had any experience with them

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Yeah needless to say I dont much like your input either, knot me. The original question pertained to which is better: raymarine or pelagic? I gave a simple answer, based on my experience: in my view, there's no competition. Pelagic survived the 'ruff bastard' treatment I gave it, with no issues at all, whilst numerous raymarines, on the same boat, (and with the same skipper), did NOT. And pelagic is a damned sight cheaper, to boot, so I'm not really sure what point you're trying to make in your contribution?

     

    If you dont believe me, rather than attack me, for "using the wrong tool for the wrong job", how about you try opening each of them up, and comparing them, as I have actually done? You'll see build quality on different ends of the scale: raymarine uses plastic gearing, which WILL inevitably eventually shear under load, (and frankly, looks like a child constructed it, out of stuff they got free in a box of cereal), whilst pelagic does not (or did not, back then, I'm not sure about now, I havent checked).

     

    FWIW, I have a raymarine again, now, (st 4000, on a 25footer, that came with the boat, and is ALREADY playing up, being overloaded in gusts, even when under full reefing). Guess what I'm NOT going to replace it with? But feel free, to buy raymarine, if you like, as your experience may vary. Just dont suggest that the reason I think they're crap is because theres something wrong with me, rather than because of the cost-cutting efforts of the company, to pass off increasingly worse-built products as "technological advancement" of previous iterations, (with increasingly weight restricted limitations), whilst other companies dont put similar weight restrictions on their products, and charge a LOT less to boot...

    Pelagic Autopilots, anyone had any experience with them

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Better "pants" than just Y fronts! :-)

    Wasn't going to wade through the manual but the separate drive I think is only "seatalk". You need the AP controller to operate it and that uses N2K. Typical "gaymarine". The trouble we had with Lusty Blunder over our ST1000 which incidentally I solved the problem, their tech in Akl couldn't. They wanted about $300 for a new board as the nmea0183 didn't work. I looked at the circuit diagram and saw there was a mosfet optocoupler. I said rip one off a old board and solder that on, now works. When I looked inside the ST1000, was surprised how shoddy the thing was. The case lugs fracture too, a problem they have since fixed. A shame pelagic have no agent here and don't do N2K.

    Yep it was the rubbish cheap plastic drive cogs shearing under load causing raymarine failures as I remember....but I could be wrong. I've heard that vintage raymarine tiller drives were built more hardily.

    Pelagic Autopilots, anyone had any experience with them

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    If you're still interested in the original question, I burnt through 3 fully integrated (and bloody expensive) raymarine st series linear drives in short order, sailing in heavy weather in the english channel, in a heavy displacement long keel wooden boat, which was built like a tank, and weighed a bit more. Finally learnt my lesson, and replaced with pelagic. No problems from thereon in. Well, no problems until the boat sunk on its moorings after a nasty electrical fire. But the pelagic STILL worked, even after this!

    Proper butyl bedding tape supplier....?

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    I bought mine from the USA. Got half a roll left after doing the toe rails. Is that enough to be useful?

    Yep that would help me complete current watertight repairs, for sure! PM me phone number and how much you want for it/payment details, and I'll organize payment and pickup :-)

    Proper butyl bedding tape supplier....?

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Hi you helpful lot.

     

    Anyone know who supplies this unctuous stuff in nz?(see photo)....its not the self amalgamating sort electricians use (coax seal) nor the foam-backed, or net-carried stuff that cant be moulded into any shape or form...its just the stuff like blu tack, but WAY more sticky...

     

    I can get it for $50 (NZ) a roll from USA, including shipping, but only if I buy 4 rolls. Seems a bit steep. Anyone know a local supplier?

    20170809_124402-01.jpeg

    Can anyone tell me what this bowsprit part is for?!

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    In Norway and the Baltic, they park bow to the shore, but the shore is entirely rock. Not rough rock around like around here, but smooth, rounded granite. They almost always moor the boat to the rock with pad eyes on the rock, or pitons (rock spikes). I haven't worked out what they do with the back of the boat (never paid any attention to it), but believe they use a conventional anchor.

     

    The thing on the bow is so you can climb over the pulpit and onto the land / rock. Even if you take a dinghy, you can't get ashore, cause you need to scramble up a nicely curved, smooth piece of rock.

     

    This look just like one of those.

     

    refer picks of Baltic style mooring.

    Nice. Makes a lot of sense. The boat in the photo was based in Norway...and mine hails from that part of the world as well.

     

    I actually saw a guy do this on urupukapuka last year, so should have realised...thanks for the clarification. You'd need to have great faith in your stern anchor not drifting, though, moored that close to the rocks!

    Can anyone tell me what this bowsprit part is for?!

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    If she's an overseas vessel then I would say an aid to boarding when on the marina. Many European marinas just have the main pier and poles - no finger pier.

    Aah I'm sure that's it! Yes she's an European boat. That would explain why someone's removed it from my boat here in NZ, and I didnt even notice, until I recently removed the bowsprit...

    Found! Instructions for getting epoxy to bond well with stainless. Anyone know an easier way?

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    This from the smooth on website:

     

    1. Degrease with trichloroethylene.

    2. Etch with concentrated hydrochloric or muriatic acid for 15 minutes at room temperature or with a solution consisting of 90 parts water, 40 parts 96% sulfuric acid, and 0.2 parts Nacconol NR (National Aniline) for 10 minutes at 150° F. followed by 10 minutes at room temperature in a solution consisting of 90 parts water, 15 parts 70% nitric acid, and 2 parts 48% hydrofluoric acid.

    3. Rinse in hot distilled water and dry with hot air.

     

    Does anyone know if just rough sanding and cleaning with acetone will work well?

    Problem discovered under bowsprit, fibreglasser recommendations?

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Fitting a strongback from the deck plate to the keel would help. I'm wondering why the bobkin isn't taking most of the strain.

     

    As freedom said, the stress on the deck should be minimal where the planks bolt through the deck. It looks like its either been hit or the forestay has pulled the bobkin up? Check the sprit metal work for any bending.

     

    Yes the previous owner left mooring lines over the bowsprit, which bent it, badly, (in a way which very much looks as if the sprit has collided, head on, with something), and I guess this deck damage may also be the result...

     

    I don't know though...this damage looked older to me. Mebbe it's just all the crud making me think that, though...

     

    There is currently no backing plate to the deck bolts, here. I will address this, but i dont just want the backing plate to then rip out a (much bigger) hole in the deck, if it's not laminated strongly enough!

     

    The bobstay turnbuckle was at its maximum adjustment for contraction, (ie, so it couldn't be tightened any more), but it seemed very hefty and taught to me: I did notice that when I loosened the forestay, that the bobstay became much looser, but I assumed this was to be expected. I also noted a very slight deflection to starboard to the bobstay plate at the waterline (at most 3mm), but it may have always been there, for all I know, and didnt look bad enough to me, to warrant attention. I'll try to upload pics later.

    Problem discovered under bowsprit, fibreglasser recommendations?

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Did someone sail this boat all the way from Sweden?

    Yep. It did a few transatlantics before that, too...

     

    Needs a lot of work, though, before I'd even take it out of auckland harbour, tbh...

     

    Under that bottom plank (hidden) is a thin stainless sheet, which is bolted through the deck (the damage was under this). Not sturdy, by any stretch...engineers will be having a look, to see if they can strengthen the sprit itself, although with this mess to sort i'm still toying with the idea of constructing something wooden from scratch...

     

    Any ideas for strengthening/fixing the deck/hull, to support the old sprit though?

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