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Cantab

Sailor
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Posts posted by Cantab

  1. I agree IT but the question regarding 500 ton refereed to actions required under the collision regulations of which there are no specific ones.

    The article refereed to did well to point out the poorly worded responses from a number of people who are paid to do better. This stuff ends up in the courts and possibly the coroners court, following advice that is wrong would not make a good defense. Dying to defend your rights may be noble in some circumstances but in these situations its probably called something else.

  2. The control head deals with everything, wireless remote included. Just note these pilots do not interface with your GPS etc, they will take a specific wind sentence in nmea 0183 for steer to wind. It also takes a bit to get your head around the adjustments, but if your setup is pretty standard the latest version will work straight out of the box. PM your email address I can send you a manual.

  3. I have just received an email from Firefly saying they wanting to expand and are looking for distributor for their Carbon Foam Batteries. Not my game but would be keen to buy one if someone was bringing them in.

    Maybe someone on here could look at adding them to their existing business? PM me for info if you are interested.

  4.  

     

    At a basic level, they've designed a submarine, with the crew and all systems downstairs, designed for the water to go un-impeded over the top. But the submarine is designed to fly above the water... Rationalise that.

    Designed for the air to go over the top too, stick your head out your car sunroof at 30knots and you will get the idea.

  5. The Pelagic is worth looking at, I got one and am astounded at how well it controls the boat off the wind. More than happy to run spinnaker or gennaker with it under control in good breeze with waves. Lets you trim while the pilot steers. Couldn't do that safely before with the old tiller pilot.

    Wireless Remote Control with 2, 10, 25 and 95 degree course change, can steer to wind too but I haven't got that set up yet. Adjustable response to course, and boat yaw response plus overall gain adjustment.

    Not much dearer than a tiller pilot and in another league for performance. Very good email support from manufacturer, you can talk to them on the phone too if you need to - that's the people that actually develop and make them. 

    https://www.scanmarinternational.com/pelagic-autopilot

    Website a little bit confusing, would pay to email them about what you want, the remote is essential.

  6. The problem is that it is now illegal to "do it yourself" and fixing up an old system suddenly activates the new rules.

     

    I went to two gas suppliers and two sellers of gas system components and equipment asking for the labels legally required on gas bottle compartments, none of them new what I was talking about.

     

    Unfortunately in realty there is no way near enough gas fitters in the country to ever keep up with making boats compliant, let alone ones that will come work on a boat. Seems that regulators aren't required to consider the practical implications of their new rules.

     

    I also recall two very significant blasts in the last year that by shear luck didn't kill anyone, both on recently installed certified systems, go figure.

     

    Like a lot of things in this country now, you do your best and hope nothing goes wrong or someone complains about you, its dam near impossible to be compliant at everything and actually have any money left to feed yourself.

  7. almost exclusively from non boat owners....

     

    Maybe they need to ask the non boat owners how much they are willing to pay to keep my boat clean, or even better tell them how much it costs and that they will be charged for it and see how they feel then.

     

    It is very rare that costs are allocated by a government or council to those that want the change, usually the cost is on those forced to change.

     

    Its not decided yet so we need to keep submitting and informing, the points have been well made in the submissions, the summary touches on most things well but the executive summary is definitely presented with a bias. You could take the same statistics and make a good  case for keeping things as they are or cutting back a bit.

  8. Here's the link to the summary of submissions on regional pest management strategy for the upper North island, worth a read.

     

    When you have four options to choose from on a question and 63% choose something other than option 3 but option 3 is presented as the preferred option you know the either the writers have no idea about statistics or they were directed to present a certain bias

     

    "The preferred option was Option 3 (go even further and make rules for other pathways too; 37%)"

     

    https://www.bionet.nz/control/marine-pests/marinepests/

     

    You will also note a very consistent significant difference of opinion from the Northland submitters, they are the ones actually experiencing some of what is proposed.

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  9. Just got a letter explaining the NRC continued failed attempts to eradicate Fan Worm in Opua, and that they are going to have another go.

    If you can't eradicate in the fully enclosed, clear water Marina at Marsden Cove, what are they using to justify continuing in the murky open waters of the Bay of Islands. I guess its not their money so there is no limit. Watched the effort in English bay, 6 on board I think, all getting paid, big boat too, you couldn't see 1 foot below the surface. 

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  10. I have made a few of these in the past, some pretty complex, some just a pipe into an elbow. You definitely want to inject the water further back, it needs to be well mixed (the arrangement is referred to as a mixer in some documents) before it hits the hose.

    Inserting the tube into your first elbow after the flange and pointing down the pipe a couple of inches would be good, pays to have something to encourage the mixing, maybe even a solid bar the water hits just after injection.

    If you have room you could add a length of pipe to what you have made, cut your tube off back to the elbow and put a deflector of some sort in front of it, the pipe will get very hot but will handle it, you may want some insulation on the metal bits to stop heat affecting nearby parts.

    Sorry I didn't say anything sooner, I saw your picture of the parts before welding and assumed you were going to insert the tube vertically down through the first elbow with the tube finishing along the first nipple, was pretty impressed with the simplicity at that stage.

  11. Thank you, I do understand the different types of corrosion. I think you may have finally realised my point about paint being an isolator.

    As to  stray currents, if you have them and then bond an otherwise isolated prop / shaft or anything else  to the item that is then immersed it is not going to be good. Get rid of the stray current, don't go and pass it through an otherwise innocent part.

    I would like your opinion on what to do when you have an isolated shaft / propellor with one anode that is obviously overprotected, the current i.e.induced by the anode is way more than needed. 

    I think that blindly advising people to bond it all together an stick an anode on is a liitle bit dangerouse and certainly has caused many problems that might not have been there in the past to many boaties, as you may realise, there is quite a bit more to it.

    https://www.anodeoutlet.co.uk/symptoms-of-over-cathodic-protecting/

    https://littleshipclubcanterbury.wordpress.com/2015/05/21/mysteries-of-electrolysis/

  12. Electrolysis is already happening, flowing THROUGH THE WATER, that’s what it is. Bonding makes everything sit at the same voltage, like a battery with all the negative plates removed. No current will flow. 

     

    So if I bond everything together I wont need an anode because everything sits at the same voltage? Not a very good explanation me thinks.

     

    In order to have electrolysis you need an anode a cathode and an electrolyte, if you remove one (think insulation) you dont get a battery. If you have no battery and add a zinc you will have a battery

     

    With out proper testing, we continue to speculate on what was happening.

  13. Wiring the two coupling halves together can work however it will tend to cause any currents present to flow through your gearbox bearings which is can be a bit of a problem. 

    Pretty sure painting a zinc will stop it working, try making a battery with the anode and/or cathode sealed with paint. Think of it as preventing contact with the electrolyte. 

    With out proper testing, I am quite happy to speculate on what was happening.

  14. Did the Anode last longer with the grounded shaft?

    My shaft isn't grounded, I painted my shaft and prop put a new anode on and got problems, the paint blistered off, the anode disappeared real quick and I got Oysters growing on the shaft and prop. Bit of research led to the conclusion I was over protected, these were all the classic signs. I left the anode off and all is now happy, the anode actually made a very nice battery and caused more trouble than it solved. Two boat builders I spoke to at the time also suggested leaving the anode off. I was a bit nervous initially but a year later, with regular inspections to ease my mind, all is well.

    Years ago I worked with a consultant who specialised in anode protection of boats, he often mentioned problems caused by over protection ( too many  anodes), there are some good papers on the subject. I think having the prop and shaft well painted my help too, lack of surface area for electrolyte to work on. I actually suspect its a factor in many stories of real expensive propspeed applications failing rapidly, the current induced by the anode "lifts" the paint off. The accepted wisdom of needing an anode on the shaft sells a lot of anodes and the fact you are sticking them on a dissimilar metal guarantees some action which is then presented as proof they were needed, nice little racket.

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