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Jon H

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About Jon H

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  • Birthday 29/09/1971

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  1. As far as I know the terminals are standard. I’m not sure what the model number means but it is 85 A/H. It was used as a single house battery on a 12v system. here is a link that I think is the same battery although the branding is different - it has all the specs on here https://batterywarehouse.net.nz/shop/us24dc/
  2. This was on a boat that I recently bought. The previous owner said it was 2 years old. I’ve upgraded to a larger battery so this is not needed. Make an offer. Pickup from Westhaven or Titirangi Cheers - Jon
  3. It is difficult to run new wires to my house battery. However, the battery switch is easily accessible. It is approx 1m from the battery to the switch and the wire is heavy duty. Instead of running wire from the solar controller to the battery can I connect the solar controller to the live side of the battery switch - in effect treating it like a battery terminal? Thanks
  4. Warning heeded. I have returned the Renogy and bought a CTEK D250SE. Cheers
  5. Thanks everyone for sharing their thoughts. I have just ordered a Renogy DCC30S from Burnsco https://www.burnsco.co.nz/catalog/product/view/id/29011/s/dc-battery-charger-reg-renogy-30a/category/2/ It’s an MPPT and DC-DC charger so it should cover my needs of charging both batteries from solar and the alternator. It can charge different profiles of house battery and trickle charge the lead acid starter. Similar to the CTEK but a bit cheaper. And I can remove the exisiting relay that did the parallel charging before (on closer inspection the connectors on the relay had got hot enough to mel
  6. My original plan was to install a dual regulator. It isn’t described as a dc-dc charger but it seems similar in function. You program the house battery type so it can charge it correctly and it also trickle charges the starter battery which must be a lead acid profile. Votronic have had one of these for years and the EPever one I was considering is newer: https://aasolar.co.nz/product/duoracer-series-mppt-dual-battery-solar-charge-controller-10-30a-by-epever/ It is about half the price of a dc-dc charger. Any thoughts on the pros and cons?
  7. In order to future proof for the possibility of dissimilar batteries, does a dc-dc charger (instead of the VSR) also work both ways? My original plan of a dual solar regulator was because they allow the house bank to be specified for the correct charge profile and then trickle charge a lead acid started battery through the 2nd connection. If I were to upgrade the house bank at some stage then the dual regulator allows that to be specified correctly. But if I go the VSR path then both batteries have to be charged with the same profile.
  8. Hi. I have just bought a Carpenter 29 and I plan to install solar. It currently charges the starter and house batteries (both single lead acid) from the alternator using what appears to be a simple relay that connects them in parallel when the engine is running. I would like to charge both batteries from solar and plan to use a dual MPPT regulator such as the EPever Duoracer https://aasolar.co.nz/product/duoracer-series-mppt-dual-battery-solar-charge-controller-10-30a-by-epever/ Will it cause a problem for the solar when the relay connects the batteries in parallel whilst the engine is ru
  9. Thanks Wheels, that’s good to know. I like the idea of reshaping the key - simple, but I wouldn’t have thought of it.
  10. Excellent - thank you all for your help
  11. Awesome ideas everyone - thank you. I will look at brass shims first before cutting the gap as plan B. Plan C is the rebore and sleeve (unless I can find a 2nd hand one that fits better). Are keys something that can be bought off the shelf or are they made to order?
  12. It’s definitely the key in the tiller as I can see the tiller move independently of the shaft. Probably the slack in the clamp has caused the key to wear a bit which causes more movement in the tiller and more wear in the key etc. I like the sound of the epoxy. I will try that. My worry though is that if I can’t get the clamp tighter then it will put undue pressure on the key again and I’ll be in the same position soon.. If there is a way to increase the cut/gap where the ends of the tiller clamp meet I think that will help. Currently the ends of the clamp touch before any significant pr
  13. I’ve just reread my previous comment and I realise that of course there must be some movement in the key or nothing would move. I suspect it might be twisting in the slot though as it did feel like the width was reasonably tight. So 2 problems - it doesn’t clamp tightly and the key has some play in it.
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