2flit
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Posts posted by 2flit
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On 2/07/2021 at 3:45 PM, Fish said:
it may be cost effective to truck your boat somewhere and paint it there. I.e. a random industrial building or farm shed.
Can't truck an 8 meter wide boat, its a shame!
I'll give Shawn a call
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On 3/07/2021 at 8:46 PM, marinheiro said:
given that you are almost painting 3 boats the $47k quote is not unreasonable.
Not really, we are very low freeboard, the amas are more like painting a 10 meter canoe than a 10 meter monohull. They also taper to virtually nothing at the transom I would estimate 1/3 the surface area? So 1/3 +1/3 + 1 = 1-2/3 a normal 40' mono with very low freeboard. Catamaran tower above us when they pull alongside!
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On 3/07/2021 at 11:48 AM, Island Time said:
Hibiscus Marine Coatings are reasonable. They quoted 25k for Island Time. I’ve had other quotes up to 80 odd.
it is a lot of work to do properly. Haul out is a big issue. To be sure of a time frame, a shed is needed, or a frame and wrap. Unless you can find a waterfront property with suitable beach, and friendly owner (with a tractor), build a trailer, and do it all yourself (maybe hire a painter if spraying, just to paint after prep is done) it will be difficult to do on a budget.
Hibiscus can't get our boat hauled because our beam is 8.02 meters
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15 minutes ago, darkside said:
Can I ask why you are repainting? If it is to sell the boat, no point spending money on a poor outcome.
We knew our boat needed a repaint before we set off on a 5 year cruise. I touched it up with single pack with a brush and didn't have to get too worried about the odd canoe bumping up against the hull or whatever.
It cost us $50k or thereabouts to paint it at Robertson's when we got back, but that was 2005
We are repainting for ourselves, plan to have the trimaran for over another ten years.
I'm already into the spot repair zone of topside paint life. It's time to do the entire job over. The paint is 20 years old and getting thin and ready to morph into a HUGE job if we don't get after it in the next couple years.
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1 hour ago, Island Time said:
Hibiscus Marine Coatings are reasonable. They quoted 25k for Island Time. I’ve had other quotes up to 80 odd.
it is a lot of work to do properly. Haul out is a big issue. To be sure of a time frame, a shed is needed, or a frame and wrap. Unless you can find a waterfront property with suitable beach, and friendly owner (with a tractor), build a trailer, and do it all yourself (maybe hire a painter if spraying, just to paint after prep is done) it will be difficult to do on a budget.
Is the time frame issue as related to having a 'shed' an issue with rainfall and/or morning condensation (we have only spent time in French Polynesia and Tonga where this is not such a big issue) We are able to leave the boat there and have them take allot of time but the hard stand rates I see are very high in Vuda... otherwise we would not mind if it took a long time (say even three months to complete).
We are 100% sure we don't want to do any prep work other than stripping/unbolting ALL of the deck gear.
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2 hours ago, Fish said:
At the prices you are talking about, it may be cost effective to truck your boat somewhere and paint it there.
Hey Fish, ... That's just it... these prices are jaw dropping out of the ball park too expensive for us and we can't spend this kind of money on the repaint. I think that I am strictly asking about Fiji (or another labor cost effective country). New Zealand has basically ruled itself out for this particular job and moving an 8+ meter wide trimaran around the countryside just is not in the cards.🙃
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10 minutes ago, Black Panther said:
Shop around. The variations I got in prices were insne. Definitely call Carla at Hibiscus Marine coatings.
If all else fails I'm told the guy at Vuda Pt is highly skilled.
Thanks BP,
We got a second quote from a local contractor but it's still the better part of a years income at $47,000. I'm truly not feeling encouraged... considering we are stripping and replacing all the hardware. I've contacted Vuda marine but have not yet heard back from them... it seems several people paint in that facility?
There is a fellow with the first name "Willy" who set-up uin Fiji about 22 years ago and is very skilled... I don't have any contact info...?
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We have a 12.2 meter Trimaran we need to have a complete repaint done on. We got quoted an astronomical $85,000 locally in New Zealand.
So... We are now looking at doing the work in Fiji. We would remove and replace all the deck hardware and deck 'structures' but leave the prep work and paint to a contractor.
Anyone have any experience doing this in Fiji?
Thanks, John
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We have a mixture of Teflon dust and epoxy as a final coat on our dagger board, worked the charm on two trimaran dagger boards owned so far.
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32 minutes ago, madyottie said:
but it seems all the class forums have disappeared?
Or am I looking in the wrong place?
I
Yep... I had the same question about where the 8.5 Multi page went... wrote the Administrator and have not heard anything back?
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I have read that as many as 44 plans sets were sold for the F36/39 Farriers, But I only know details of a very few..
If you can fill in the blanks here or are sailing one, I'd like to see a list started. See attached .xlxs WExcel file for the complete list.Boat Name AKA Current Owner(s) Ravenswing Greg Carter (Mex) UnconditionalLove ?? Nehenehe Max-Q John Mottl (NZ) KISS MartyStill, Precision Wind Tech (Aus) FRAM Henny van Oortmarssen Noreen Gary Mulder Enough Rope ?? HEI MATAU ?? Jam Today ?? Screech Hecla Jeff Lebesch >>> Sold to?? YellowFish Dr. Gary Gelbfish Adrenalax ?? ??? ?? ?? ?? ??? Dallas Babineaux Alice's Restaurant Howard & Alice Greenwald Freedom Konrad Hilpold -
The Captains of that boat appear to have been previously well seasoned:
https://sv-footprint.blogspot.com/
Lots of cruising since 2008, did loose one previous Cat that Jack-Line insurance made a 100% cover on when winds reversed on them at anchor and waves developed when anchored in 2.5 meter depth in Itally, boat washed ashore and was deemed a total loss. They have done more long distance sailing than we have and their experience covers a wide range of territory. They had the experience to have know to avoide this so the back story to why they left harbor would be of enormous interest to me.
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16 hours ago, raz88 said:
Looks cool - what does it weigh?
It weights allot for something like this. The prod itself is an aluminum tube and (it could have been built in Carbon )and the stainless strut is extremely thick walled. I could estimate the weight of the prod at 12-15 kg and the strut at an additional 5-6 kg. The design is straight from the plans built exactly to Ian Farriers drawings for the prod and is original to the boats year 2001 build.
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... and ours 'folded' at the marina ...
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Other prods and prod hardware that my friend builds then anodizes...
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Our Prod is about 2 meters long and has a stainless bobstay so that it is supported without any halyards attached. I'm almost 90kg and can climb out to the very end and it remains supported. I'll post pictures of another prod too...
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Rangiroa
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If you can't get someone to loan/rent you out the tool... I used the manufacturers ratcheting crimpers for about a year until the tool broke. I then learned.... You can use most KLEIN brand 'soft' Single crimper jaws at their respective (Yellow, Blue, Red) settings. A soft jaw is one with oval/rounded outer edges, I've done this for 20 years and 1,000's of connections without any issues for 'Name Branded' 22-10 AWG size connectors from "Quick Cable", not sure about your metric sizing and metric tools and connectors but I would at least give it a try on a few test connectors.
Crimp them, inspect the heat-shrink plastic for damage that cuts thru to the tin coated connector; if none... heat shrink it and check again; if none.... put the connector in a vise and pull HARD on the wire to check break-out strength (often breaks just outside the edge of connector body). If the wire does not pull out of the fitting, I SUGGEST YOU ARE GOLDEN.
I used only Class-K wire tin coated with name branded Connectors (not cheap unlabeled potentially China knock-offs)
Here is a video that shows a 'soft' jaw single crimper... https://www.ancorproducts.com/en/309103 This one is ratcheting and the brand tool I started out using.
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We can't find anyone with a Snomaster 40 liter freezer see: https://www.snomasterusa.com/product/classic-series-bdc-40-stainless-steel-acdc-fridgefreezer/#tab-description target=_top
Any suggestions for a very efficient model this size (less than 40 liters) for a portable 12V freezer? We heard great things about the Snomaster.
We intent to install it semi-permanently aboard our Trimaran and are solar based (No shore-power) so the unit needs to be very efficient. We don't want a drop-in Danfos unit because of the cost to build and fair in the box.
Picture of the area it goes in aboard the Tri... on the right in front of that bank of drawers, partially under the brown squab but sticks out another 20cm. We have a maximum size ″ 600 W x 420 D x 620 H mm’s
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15 hours ago, funlovincriminal said:
A lot going on in that space!
Very clean engine bay, something we are a ways from at present. So if you are running your motor and using hot water (say a shower) at the same time, does the cylinder keep up with demand or do you end up with water that gradually loses its temp?
Sooo... At the top of the tank there is a tempering valve (has a black knob on the left hand side). Don't set one of these up without one because getting scalded is a real possibility.
On the lower left is a Tn'P valve (Temp & pressure release) plumbed to the outside world via the cockpit drains. My old system used to routinely blow and reset that valve so I recommend an "Industrial" rated Tn'P valve which cost 3X as much but will reseal properly 100% of the time. But take all this with a grain of salt because I don't like problems and breakages aboard and do the very best possible 'damn the cost' That Tn'P valve should be at the top of the tank, but with a tank this small (round and on its side) it doesn't matter that much and it didn't work out in the real plumbing world.
The rest looks so damn tight because that is a truly tiny tank you are looking at.
I have no idea how running the engine would effect things because we hate to run the engine, Engine is 21 years old and we have 990 hours on the engine with full time cruising for the last four years, so we would never run the engine just to take a shower. However… Starting from a cold tank it only takes about ten minutes to have hot water and 15 minutes to have super-hot (in need of the tempering valve )water; so running the engine would make a big difference with a 15 minute shower and would extend the run time. Our tank stays hot enough overnight to take a full shower the next day, again… not enough for my wife’s showers.
I would NEVER install a tank this small again, never, never. I was an idiot to think it would hold enough hot water and I rue the day I installed it every time wifie takes a shower. It has plenty of water for me but not my wife with her super long hair and longer time in the shower. I truly wish I had the space for a tank 50-100% larger but “Nehenehe” is a trimaran and there is a dearth of space for these sorts of amenities. In fact, I have overloaded the poor girl with this first world stuff.
Hope this helps!
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We have one but don't run the engine enough to have hot water often enough.
My only takeaway advice is to pay attention to the R-Value, or it's inverse U-Value of the insulation on the tank. This makes a huge difference. I think it's worth paying more for a well insulated tank. I put a picture in of our current install
I also had one of these on a converted OSTAR boat and it worked great. That one had extra spray foam insulation heaped over and around it, a bit of a mess but worked very well.
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After a raucous sail up the west coast with over 6 meter seas and 45 knots of wind, boat speeds above 16 kn hitting 20kn, tired after logging our first ever 300+ mile day....We decided to haul-out in Whangarei at Oceania Marine. They had the very best rate for the haul-out and also if we paid them to do all the anti-fouling... so they were almost the most competitive priced of all the yards that had a travel lift for our beam. (Their Travel lift is 10+ meters wide so easily accommodated our 8.06 meter beam.)
In the last four year of world cruising with two major refits and three bottom jobs.... I would say that I am the most satisfied with this yard for quality of work, friendliness of the staff, and overall ability to get the work done just like I wanted it. This in my experience... is a rare thing to get when you are not doing everything yourself. They did an outstanding job and I am more than 100% satisfied.
We are hanging in the slings now ready to go back in the water. April 23, 2021.
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1 hour ago, wheels said:
If anyone is considering buying a new Anchor, this is a good point to suggest considering a design like the Excel. And it's not because I am biased. There is a very good environmental reason. The Excel came about due to restrictions imposed in Austrailia. Because they have large areas of Sea grass and other rather sensitive seafloors, they are now restricting the tye of anchor one can use to just the plough type designs. The designs like Sarca, Spade, Rocna etc cannot be used in many areas. There is murmor that this could become a thing in the future for areas of NZ like the Sounds etc. The designs like the Sarca cause too much damage when they are lifted from the bottom. The plough designs cause the least amount of damage. So Anchor Right went about redesigning the plough style and came out with a top notch performer.
In what Australian anchorages is the Rocna forbidden?
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Anyone here have a Boat Repainted in Fiji, how did that go for you?
in TechTalk
Posted
We would wait at least until next September, could wait longer...