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Island_Moose

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Everything posted by Island_Moose

  1. Perhaps "something NOT found on your boat that is found on others"? Wires...
  2. Hello, Who in Tauranga builds biminis for yachts? I have a dodger, but I'd like to have a bimini built that extends over the entire cockpit of my 30 footer. I realize they are all different, but are biminis a $1000 proposition (do-able), or a $3000 proposition (buy a hat).
  3. The Nonsuch 30 Ultra came with two keep options, a 1.5m and a 1.2m shoal draft (ballast is identical, the shoal draft has a "foot" with a flat bottom). The only difference is about 3 degrees of pointing ability and somewhat greater leeway when hard on the wind. Drawing 1.2m allows me to anchor a LOT closer to the beach than most other boats, and has allowed me to get into Whangamata relatively-close to low-tide. I guess my point is that the performance issue is only an issue if you are racing, or if you like pounding into the wind, the rest of the time shallower is better.
  4. A yachty mate of mine said to me last year..."I realize it's been well-designed, but I'm just not comfortable putting my trust in an unstayed aluminium spar".... The next day he boarded an Air New Zealand flight to Wellington... It's been a long time since they put wires on planes. The cool thing about an unstayed cat-ketch or cat-schooner (?!) is that conceivably you can heave to, which you can't do on mine. I don't get the bowsprit or the the staysail between masts though in this design...as I understand it you either go unstayed or you don't...you can't have "some" stays..
  5. I love the rig...but I'm biased.
  6. Thx, You might have seen the boat, she lived at the Bayswater Marina for several years. John
  7. Bilge painting going well, but it might be the worst job ever physically. I should have poured a gallon of paint in and gone out on a choppy day. http://www.kiwiboatowner.com/
  8. Hello all, Within a month of buying my Nonsuch 30 my wife announced we were expecting our third child. As a result of this I lost my crew to pregnancy (not a common occurance). This is my second yacht and I've done a lot of sailing, but I am getting no practice at all handling the yacht under power at the marina (Sulpher Point). As a result I am still a bit stressed about getting her in and out by myself with the family onboard this coming summer. I was hoping there might be an old salt who wouldn't mind helping me get the hang of the thing this coming spring, it's got wicked pr
  9. I've settled on Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Primer, followed by a basic marine enamel. The Zinsser primer's claim-to-fame is that it "sticks to all surfaces without sanding", including fibreglass, ceramics and even glass. You clean the surface with sugar soap or TSP, then one-coat of the primer and you're done. Follow up with a coat of enamel to give the gloss and further waterproofing. At $38/litre it was 1/2 the price of any marine primer, and was the only one I found that didn't need ANY sanding beforehand. Sanding the mat in the bilge was a non-starter. John
  10. I am suddenly less-convinced about the gray bilge...I think it might be gelcoat...the ribs might just be painted, but I'm starting to think the bilge is gel-coat. This changes things. Isn't Durepox a 2-part paint? I'm worried that this will ruin the current coating, which I am reasonably-convinced is some sort of enamel over the factory gelcoat. I say this because it goes up onto the timber ribs that hold up the sole. I don't think they would have sprayed the timber with gelcoat, and 2-part epoxy paints wouldn't have been around in 1987.
  11. For interior work that looks good without breaking the bank I would suggest a satin polyurethane from Bunnings or Mitre 10. Satin because gloss will highlight every imperfection on the surface. No point using marine varnish inside because what makes it expensive (UV protection) is irrelevant. 3 coats with a light sand with 320grit between coats. You can get stain/varnish now, which is nice if you want to deepen the colour at the same time. Otherwise go Danish oil or Briwax, just remember that you will have to keep it up. Not hard, a bit of a hobby...but not "spray and walk away"
  12. I thought about this before I applied the wax, but then I considered the same question with respect to varnich or polyurethane. Imagine sanding off 4 coats of varnish inside a boat...you'd have dust everywhere. You have to be reasonably-sure before you start, if you go into it thinking you may change your mind down the road, you should stop and re-consider...whatever you do you want to be happy for years. I like wax because when I applied it I went down to the boat with a can and a couple of pads, no cleaning brushes, no masking, no sanding, no drips. I suppose if you did decide to r
  13. Isn't Durepox a 2-part paint? I'm worried that this will ruin the current coating, which I am reasonably-convinced is some sort of enamel over the factory gelcoat. I say this because it goes up onto the timber ribs that hold up the sole. I don't think they would have sprayed the timber with gelcoat, and 2-part epoxy paints wouldn't have been around in 1987.
  14. Ditto regarding basic household floor finishes: http://www.kiwiboatowner.com/2013/06/cabin-sole-re-finishing.html
  15. If there is already a coat of something reasonably-stable on your joinery then why not consider wax? It's a lot of work, but done right it has a finish that is not gloss no satin...just amazing. A lot of people will say "wax has no place in the marine environment", but if you get salt water splashing on your interior joinery you've got bigger problems. http://www.kiwiboatowner.com/2013/07/interior-woodwork-refinish.html 4 coats of Briwax clear applied and buffed with synthetic 0000 wool over 27 year old satin polyurethane. No sanding-no dust. I'll work up to 8-9 coats over th
  16. Good day, My bilge needs a spruce up while I have the cabin sole removed for re-finishing. It currently has a grey enamel coating over the factory gel-coat and timber floor ribs. I would like to go with white, and use the same product to re-finish the interior of my cabinets etc. If I were back home in Canada I would run down to West Marine and buy a gallon of Pettit EZ Bilge or Interlux Bilgecoat...but I'm starting to get the feeling that nobody in NZ has ever re-painted their bilge (I know this isn't true). I have had people suggest various products that are used to coat bare
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