nagy592
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Posts posted by nagy592
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Haha, the question is, is the light fitting will survive?
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Yes, I was considering it but I'm not sure if I can apply enough force even for a short time. By experience, if that part is missing, VHB doesn't work very well.
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Any suggestion for bonding aluminium extursion, to fiberglass? Anodized light fitting to the cabin top. Not much load on it apart from it's own weight and it also will support the 3mm thick PVC foam hood lining on the middle, that is bugger all. I was thinking to use MS, or just epoxy with 404 compound. The thing is would be great if it could be removable in case if it needed.
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Indeed. Also as the space is smaller, it feels even stickier.
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I'm slow... stripping the hull took longer than I expected. However I have some progress with the anchor locker, the first two piece already on place. The reinforcement for the mooring bollard. Initially I was going to add this behind the chain locker bulkhead, but I found it was in bad shape due the very poor installation. So the plan is to close add another bulkhead where the shelving is finished and close the bottom (the black lines on the hull shows the final shape. Also the capstan comes between the two new bulkhead, approximately 1200mm from the bow roller.
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Thanks, I have a one piece heavy wall stainless steel tube so I don't have to worry about alignment too much. I also tending to use dry ice to fit, in that case I don't even have to press the bearing according to the calculator. Have you tried this method yet?
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Right, I'm finally on the point when I can think about the rudder bearing, after a very busy week behind me on the boat yard. So the question is, is there any backside of a longer rudder bearing? The existing one is 100 mm long and I was thinking to increase by 50% plus add a flange to the end let say 10mm for further support. Simple reason to spread the load, reduce wear and so on. I have plenty of space so that isn't an issue. Based on the Vesconite calculator not much difference in terms of sizing, apart from the press fit force. So any opinion on this?
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Great question and I'm surprised the lack of response, especially because it could be lifesaving. Just look at the Golden Globe fleet. Those people spent years for preparation, I guess they asked the same question, and I guess they had to make compromise on things, some of them made a bad call as it is already proven. So the real question is, what do you really want. Do you want to comply, or you want to be able to cope whatever coming up and than you could determine the amount of tools and spares, also to find a spot for them. The other theoretical question is, how capable you are, and how much you could contribute to extinguish an emergency situation. I seen boat with top notch toolkits stowed perfectly and the skipper had not a clue about the use of half of them. So the real "waste" to take anything what you couldn't use or don't know what it is. Again it is theoretical and just a general comment. About storage... I'm just clearing out everything from the boat and found "secretly" placed spares and tools what I had no idea they are on board. I have to screen them before put them back as most of them very specific spare for gear which is not on board anymore. I guess I will save a couple of hundred kg...
Anyway if you seeking a short answer, take anything what you think, lave everything behind what you don't think you need then ask your cat inspector if he wants to see more. I guess it wasn't much help but this is a "crousers" point of view.
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This is an upcoming job for me.
Look at a glue called Cantac. This looks like the glue I am going to go with.
As far as the lining, I am putting the Burnsco stuff on top of 20mm closed cell foam in an attempt to minimise condensation and keep the boat reasonably warm in the winter.
I have other more important jobs to do on the boat first, but when I get to this job I will try remember to post the results.
I had lining without insulation and that was enough to stop condensation, however if you have other concerns about maintaining cabin temperature, the extra foam just help.
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Other threads I found didn’t address what I was after, which is general advice on the topic from the community.
Anyway, awesome reply, thanks. Really encourages relative newbies like myself to post questions here
I don't think you should take it wrong, it seems the suggested topic covers all your questions. Anyway doing this job pretty much depends on the capability of the person who does it, just like everything else. In the other hand nothing impossible and you could save a lot by getting your hands dirty. Giving general advice, tips and tricks... not easy, the best if you buy some samples and make a small(ish) test piece, even with different material and then you may have question to ask. I'm sure the answer will come.
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Is the cutlass bearing with grooves? They (in Hamilton) have prefab for standard shaft size. I hope I don't have to deal with that just yet, the previous owner replaced not long ago.
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I remember someone said 'nothing can move water faster on a sinking boat than a man with a bucket.....'
Is the sentence finished like "...for a while."
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Just had it replaced after about 5 years. $1100 including 6 hours labour at 95 plus gst.
I can see where the time gone... I considering remove the engine from the engine bay to pry the bolts out.
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Nice job mate!
Damn, if you were up here maybe we could swap some work.
My tig skills have left me, can only stick weld now.
Gotta make an arch, going to stick tack it and then get someone to tig.
Cheers, trust me only my day job hold me back, otherwise I'd be up there, or even further up...
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$750, GST and shipping inclusive. I think two set of rudder bearing and about six pulleys. I planing to make halyard pulleys from the white one.
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Here they are. Anyway, is there anyone used Vescolite Hilube for halyard pulley? In theory will be fine.
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Thanks WM apart from I'm based in Lyttelton and would be some logistic difficulty, I wasn't planned improvement in this magnitude. I'm sure the difference would be great, I stick with the plan for now. I was looking Jefa's system earlier and I agree, they offer probably the best rudder bearing solution at the moment.
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Right, as I don't have the sample in hand, I couldn't make the proper flange, but I have enough excess material to shape it. Also I put a socket for the water intake, rather than a hosetail. I think it will do the trick., somehow I couldn't attach pictures, so here is an external link https://photos.app.goo.gl/qSy2Wy7HTJUPzNjM8
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Well, the external tube shouldn't be too hot unless the water is not running. The external one, which is for the exhaust it could be hot and the flange as well.
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Apparently I don't have leak, but the rust murk telling me it wasn't always like that. I did not planed to do too much with the engine, apart from oil change and anodes, but I have to deal with this for a couple of reason, #1, I don't need any water leak, #2 if I going to get folding prop, I need every single HP out from the engine, so worth it to clean the soot at least. I already started to make up my version for this out of stainless steel, I'll post some pictures about the progress. Not as difficult (obviously the welded version not the cast). When I checked the suggested sources I decided to give it a try.
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Holger at Norsand said they have some in the paint store. Thanks ladyhawk. Theres another product we are looking at 'liquid rubber'? $56 a litre. Might be better?
This one probably not the best for sole, I don't think it has a very good wear resistance.
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Oh what a coincident, I just checked my one yesterday... I shouldn't have. One more thing on my list. I think I'll make it from S/S tubes, TIG welded and purged. I might make two just in case.... It will be a mission to remove it.
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Feck yes. I got some for my beast and nearly had to sell one of the kids.
It machines well but do it very carefully. Not the biggest fan of heat so when I drilled a big hole I had lots of water running over it to keep the heat down. Too hot and it melts...too hot is not that hot.
I've got the "bushing" type, so I don't have to drill it, however I have to be careful with the speed. Too expensive to screw it up. A few more thing to be sorted beforehand , so I'm better to get into it.
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Thanks IT, to use gold would be cheaper... However it is on it's way now.
Stack-pack Sailrite kit vs source parts locally
in TechTalk
Posted
Here is version 2. different boat, same problem so I ended up to purchase a more solid sewing machine, and got into it. I've learned from the first one ( see earlier in this thread) and tried to improve it, it's come up very nicely. Again, thanks for all help and advise they were a great part of this success. I guess time will tell if I have to change anything on version 3. apart from the small things what I already noticed, and I will fix it when I take it of some point.
My answer for my own question in the title, source it locally.