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Bogan

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Posts posted by Bogan

  1. Problem with Whangateau is the lack of good anchoring space.

     

    You can follow the channel by following the line of moorings, but there's not much room left for anchoring except a small area right up at the tip of the spit on the west side - which isn't very sheltered.

     

    Tides aren;t an issue for most of the boats that moor there. The water's really clear and you can see the entrance channel pretty well from deck level.

  2. For most of us on this board, racing gives you long periods of time with boats that close around you, and often in some pretty difficult situations.

     

    In that situation, no problem.

     

    We just assume that other sailors have some racing experience and will be comfortable with a controlled overtake of this type. This thread shows that might not be true.

    • Upvote 2
  3. I've seen two boats pull directly towards each other, and once I've been one of them. Weird, but it does happen occasionally.

    I'm still not comfortable with how close Auckland boaties are happy to anchor to each other ( and to me!)...

     

    Maybe once people have had the odd bump while racing they figure a light tap in the night isn't going to be a big deal?

  4. Does anyone else use the "drop your anchor between two boats transoms" rule?

     

    It's what I was taught many moons ago and then, no matter how crowded the bay, no boat should be over your anchor when retrieving it (not you over theirs). Probably even in the situation just described by pacifier. In which case nobody has any idea where another boat's anchor is.

     

     

    Pretty much what I learned through watching my father. But in this case your anchor can easily end up under one or other of the boats depending how they are laying at the time you anchor.

     

    And more commonly the issue arises as more boats come in and start filling the gaps.

     

    But I've never personally seen or experienced two boats coming together at anchor - except when one of them is dragging.

     

    I jumped aboard a dragging launch to hold it off on one occasion, and had a launch drag back and collide with my anchor rode on another.

  5. An anchor marker might seem a good idea, but you're just going to piss people off.

     

    Boats can anchor much closer than full scope circles would suggest without hitting. We've frequently had to wait for boats to swing out of the way when raising anchor, but never had any feeling that the boats would swing into contact.

     

    In the commodore's lounge at the squadron there's a photo of mansion house bay in the early 1900's, taken from the shore, with boats very close together. In discussing it with some more weathered folk their impression is that the wind tends to channel between boats at anchor and keep them apart.

    • Upvote 2
  6. Here: Electricity (Safety) Regulations 2010 - http://legislation.govt.nz/regulation/public/2010/0036/latest/whole.html#DLM2763782, Section 60 (1):

    But reg 3 states that nothing in the rules applies to ships, except to pleasure vessels which have a connectable installation.

     

    Connectable installation is defined in s7 as one which is designed or intended for or capable of connection to an external power supply that operates at a nominal voltage between 90V and 250V AC.

     

    How does this apply to a boat that only has a 12v system?

     

    The argument that seems to be behind the present push enforced is that the electrical cord, and 12v charger is a part of the connectable installation.

     

    But with this interpretation, every boat is "capable of connection" to an external power supply - whether it is actually ever connected or not - arguably whether is even has an electrical system (it has conductive parts that could be connected to an external power supply.

     

    I can't believe that this was the intention. The clear issue that the rules are intended to cover is safe AC power distribution systems.

     

    Under the OIA we can request background information and advice Worksafe have on this interpretation. If they have made an unsupported or incorrect decision it can and should be challenged through a judicial review process.

     

    The cost of eWofs over all of the boats concerned is massive - it's not enough for the marinas to say that this is our problem. They have the resources (through the large fees they collect) to challenge this.

  7. I have rolled it on (white on my transom board), and brushed it on (clear gloss on a floor board).

     

    It's hard to get a completely smooth finish but the foam roller did a pretty good job. You get pretty thin coats and use up a roller head with every coat.

  8. "All batteries must be installed securely in adequate battery boxes. The bottom of the box must be above the level of the cabin sole. Battery boxes must be  acid proof unless all the batteries are fully sealed units."

     

    I'm installing a new start battery. Anyone know what is an "adequate battery box"?

     

    For me this just looks like it will get in the way of properly securing the battery.

  9. They're 12v batteries. They will settle to a little over 12v - so there's nothing wrong there.

     

    They could well be stuffed. The test of that is how much the voltage drops when the battery is asked to deliver a reasonable load and what their useful capacity is now (which is hard to measure without actually flattening them - which is not something you want to do).

  10. I agree with the last answer. The collision/time doesn't vary by speed, but the collision/journey does.

     

    Think of the extreme case: a boat that bobs around forever will eventually be hit.

  11. Bogan, those are not a bad unit, with lots of the sensors combined - GPS, Heading , WInd, Temp, Pressure etc. However, they are not inexpensive, nor are they recommended for yachts or small vessels. The stability of data is not good enough on a vessel that moves a lot/quickly, or rolls thru more than 30 deg. See www.airmartechnology.com/uploads/brochures/pb200.pdf

     

    It also used a rate compass, with software to compensate for pitch, roll and yaw. The latest and best way to do that is with a solid state compass, with 10hz or better heading outputs, also compensated for pitch roll and yaw. The great thing about these is that they are almost completely immune to movement, and give extremely accurate headings for APs, and for True WInd calcs, therefore currents, drift, and leeway. Both B&G and Raymarine are using these now.

     

    This is why, at this time, none of the high end race yachts use these. Yet.

     

     

    Yes the Airmar unit. Not that much more pricey than a typical wind unit. The pitch and roll compensation actually seems pretty good in practice - I believe it is based on accelerometers in the unit.

     

    They don't market them to sailors, but if you search the web you will find plenty who have installed them and been impressed.

     

    One thing I wouldn't trust is the GPS speed over ground reading from the mast head. That is completely unreliable in waves due to the amount of movement at the masthead. But it doesn't use that for any calcs anyway if you have a suitable log sensor. And your MFD can use a more accurate GPS signal from deck level.

  12. I have a PB200 ultrasonic sensor. Works at least as accurately as the Navman unit it replaced. NMEA2000, and 0183, and can operate as a translator/gateway between the two networks.

     

    One thing I can say - it's a tough little unit: in one round waiheke race it came loose early on due to poor mounting of the aluminium mounting stick (that I mounted it on) to the mast. The combined sensor and stick was like a little club hanging by the network cable. It spent the whole beat back in 25 knots up the outside of waiheke hanging from its cable and bashing against the mast. Remounted it afterward and no issues.

  13. If it's a 120 sail drive then the prop has to come off to change the anode.

     

    Can be done pretty quickly, eg: on the floating dock when getting a scrub down.

     

    The time is in taking off the prop and cleaning that up, and putting it all back together well.

     

    Make sure you tighten the two screws that hold the anode on real tight - you don't want the anode coming loose.

     

    The guys at the floating dock are pretty experienced and will likely give you a hand.

  14. My understanding of osmosis is that it results from the weakness of the chop strand layer. CSM doesn't have any shear strength compared to a weave - only the resin stops the fibres pulling apart or moving around relative to each other. This lack of strength means that gases produced by water molecules migrating through the shell, reacting with the resin are able to blow up little blisters.

     

    It's used as the first layer on production boats to stop any weave pattern showing in the gelcoat.

     

    A good osmosis fix involves grinding or planing off the CSM layer and then refairing - the CSM layer isn't figured into the strength of the boat, so no need to replace it with anything other than fairing compound. Only good woven glass cloth layers left, so no osmosis.

     

    Hopefully any decent boats these days aren't CSM all the way through?

     

    Anyone want to correct me?

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