Glsssbead

New battery tech headlines always sound great - but seems as if this one is still a long ways off... "Now for the bad news: this technology is still a decade or so away. The demonstration battery produced by the scientists still needs pure oxygen in order to charge – not something many of us have a ready supply of – and there's still the risk of the battery exploding due to the dendrites (spindly lithium metal fibres) created during the charging process. Eventually, these issues will be dealt with, but it's going to take a lot of research and experimentation first." http://www.sciencealer

Good thing you only tried this coming back from the race - attaching the pole to the stanchion base is not allowed under the racing rules.

I made a new rudder last winter based on the Jefa racing design - http://www.jefa.com/blade/blade.htm. Made templates based on their shape and profile, built a cedar block around my old stock, shaped and glassed up w/plenty of carbon fiber uni. Been real happy with the result. Nicely balanced, plenty of control, stiff as. I also have a spare rudder with an outdated design, and plan to rebuild it at some point, so am looking for another design to try as well. Old rudder looked great on the outside and had recently passed survey, but on 1st haul out, noticed a small weep mid length. Drill

Here's the press release and full report. The report is a quite interesting read: thttp://www.volvooceanrace.com/en/presszone/en/2618_Vestas-Wind-grounding-report-Why-And-what-next.html http://www.volvooceanrace.com/static/assets/content_v2/media/files/m36616_team-vestas-wind-inquiry-report-released-on-9-march-2015.pdf I'm posting this on a new "general" thread as opposed to the existing older VOR/Vestas thread, since I'm thinking this has broader interest, but am fine if it gets moved to the existing thread.

Deaker is consistent with my reaction to the matter, though I readily acknowledge all I know about this is what we are reading. A few uninformed musings though: - I don't buy off on the view that Dalton is necessary for the fundraising. Might he instead be a liability to the fundraising at this juncture? - I wonder what his contract says? Could TNZ be stuck with a contract that financially handcuffs them to Dalton at this point - too expensive to break? - If NZ public opinion is important to their success and brand name (and I sense it is), it seems to me that this might now push t

Uh-oh - my thread has been hijacked as an advert for celox.....and, no, Celox is a classic Logan mullet boat that recently joined rainbow warrior up at the Cavalli's... I do keep several packages of celox around the house, in the car and on the boat, and luckily have not had to use yet....only a matter of time.....

Does anyone know what's happening with the mullet boat that sank at the Cavalli's a week ago? (See earlier "lucky bugger" topic for background)

I wrapped my 9m yacht myself about 6 months ago after watching some youtube videos, and am pleased with the results + can't beat the price. I bought my wrap from Vvivid in Canada on eBay for NZ$500 including shipping. Amazing technology! http://www.ebay.com/itm/VViViD-White-Gl ... 4e&vxp=mtr

If one of the reasons for using carbon is to save weight, then I'm not sure why one would add the weight of a coating? I have 25 year old carbon sheet countertops and they still look great - no scratches. Certainly glad they were never coated.

Really? that would be cool!

Thanks everyone. After looking at python and aqua drives, I don't think it is either of these. Consistent with Idleboat and Island Time's takes, seems like two standard CV joints welded together. Seems to work well as I don't have much vibration, and I don't see any signs of wear, so back together it goes. I did figure out how to correctly reassemble - there is only one way that it properly rotates

I took my drive shaft coupling apart today to inspect, and am now not sure how it goes back together.... Can someone identify the name of this type of coupling and/or who makes these based on the attached photo? The coupling consists of two sets of six ball bearings which ride in slots between two outer rings and cones, and held in place by a retaining sleeves. The attached photo shows one set of bearings, not fully pressed in place, and the second inner cone without the bearings or outer sleeve. It all gets sealed together by a rubber boot. I'm sure there is a name for this typ

I just updated lights on my "previously compliant" boat. Had to de-rig the boat to take the pulpit off to weld tabs and route wiring. Seemed crazy at first, but realize that there will be a lot of us still out there after dark that night, and no moon so it will be quite dark so think the inspectors are right on this one.....

Thanks all for the feedback. Please note the following in respect to various points raised: The batteries I referenced are lithium iron phosphate (LiFePo4), which from everything I read, are very safe. I'm not aware of any substantive basis for fire scare stories with respect to this type of battery, however unfortunately this seems to be a common misperception being perpetuated. Note that lead-acid batteries are not without risk - see http://www.yachtingmonthly.com/plus/530 ... o-avoid-it The SmartBatteries are more expensive than the LiFePo4 batteries sold by AA Solar, but I also do

I've got an 80's racer/cruiser with an 80's regulator and not so old, but tired house battery and alternator, and am thinking about swapping out to lithium as follows: Replace my existing start and 100 amp house batteries with two 50-amp smart batteries - see http://www.lithiumion-batteries.com/pro ... n-battery/ Lithium regulator from http://www.markgrasser.com/regulator.htm Dual charge monitor - http://www.victronenergy.com/battery-mo ... 0bmv-602s/ Keep the alternator for now, but watch it closely in case the lithiums overload it - hopefully the new regulator will manage thi