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Tazzy Devil

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Posts posted by Tazzy Devil

  1. Take the end bits off, measure required ID and call Kilwell in Rotorua, they often have carbon tube sections for cheap as. I got my carbon spin pole off them for less than an alloy section, was a mast section that had a blemish which was cut off when we cut the section to size.

  2. Love my B and g Vulcan, can network it to receive and display wind, heading, depth, stw etc. also expand to take radar and fish finder later. If you have Simrad TP you can control from the display.

     

    On my network it gives me more info than I will ever need including lay lines, wind history, sail steer, tides etc.

  3. That looks like a pretty good.

     

    I’ve had a chat to an engineer and will try to use what I have.

     

    Retracting would be good as 1.7m out the front makes the LOA closer to 12.5m which is a hassle for berths etc.

     

    I have the tubes now so I guess beefing up the anchor locker and reinforcing the big tube to take the loads with some margin will be the go.

  4. This was Pork Chops move...

     

    Wow quite a move.

     

    I want to stick with a J -keel if possible and stay around the 2.3m draught so will probably stick with the current keel for now but maybe a project for the future.

     

    Have conatcted and engineer re. the Sprit setup.... It feels doable for now. My keel leading edge sits directly below the trailing edge of the mast which looks a bit different to your original setup too?

  5. Keel job is probably a future task (big$$$) and I sail in shallow harbour so the T-keels are probably a bit to deep.

     

    Forestay tension is no biggie the rigging is 7mm Dieform and the bobstay is 8mm, both are strapped done hard. the forestay is fixed quite high on the mast so the backstay off the boomkin really tightens it up.

     

    The rig itself is a bit of a beast. with the A-frame the weakest link by far.

     

    The thinking is to laminate the carbon tube section super strong so it effectively extends the bow out 550mm then have a retractable sprit section in side it.

  6. Is there a reason why you cant change it back to standard like the other 10.5’s?

     

    Chain plate on the stem and then a nice tidy prod?

    That is an option, but I think the set-up is to balance the rig out and carry more sail area as the chain plates were moved to the gunwales, preventing the use of  overlappers.

     

    She can be a handful reaching sometimes so suspect that was to reduce the rounding up that can happen.

  7. Can anyone help with a basic carbon engineering question.

     

    I've got an Elliott 10.5.

     

    Current set up is A frame alloy sprit which holds the forestay out 55cm with a bobstay to the knuckle (see pics)

     

    I then have a carbon selden sprit to run the FR0 and Gennakers off going out another 120cm.

     

    I got given a (Thanks BooBoo - bloody legend) a section of 120 OD x 5mm wall carbon tube (probably around 120cm of usable length.)

     

    So my questions are:

     

    1. will the tube support the forestay/bobstay in compression?

     

    2. If how would you reinforce inside the boat, is this a over engineer it and DIY job? I'm comfortable working with glass and composites but not vacuum bagging etc?

     

    3. I'm thinking with the reverse sheer the tube will need to be merge into the deck.

     

    The selden sprit can then slide up the middle of the bigger tube to run the big sails.

     

    What are your thoughts? 

  8. Nothing as exciting as that...

     

    I bought the boat about a year ago straight after a so called boatbuilder had redone the keel (and charged the previous owners quite a bit of money to replace keelbolts etc).

     

    Turns out they had no clue about what they were doing (look out aucklanders if you are getting keel work done)

     

    Keel was faired pretty similar to what a 2 year old might make out Plasticine, warped and hollowed out with a trailing edge curved off to port (probably why we were 4 degrees better on one tack and the boat rounded up at random occassionally.

     

    So the plan was to refair the keel but once sanded back we noticed the dreaded red weeping. Turns out the trailing edge had been sanded through (probably trying to get it remotely fair) and then water had seeped in and run along the base plate.

     

    Fortunately the deadwood is solid cedar not ply and there was a filler "Dam" so the water didn't seep up any higher. given saltwater in oxygen free environment are not a great idea we took out the section and now the pros are involved fixing it. Guessing shape some high density foam or wood then glass it in.

     

    Pretty gutting but very pleased I found it now!

     

    Interestingly there is a cavity with a whole bunch of lead shavings and some balck tar type stuff in it. Only around 5kg of shavings but random to find.

  9. My boat has a track that runs harken external slides, about 40cm above boom height there is notch cut so you can feed a trysail with slugs internaly. Clever system. I went for 3 reefs in the main and the 3rd is very deep, but nice to have a trysail just in case (blown main or mast or something.

  10. I have vivid on my boat, it’s not a true hard antifoul but it’s excellent stuff. Hard enough to stand up to scrubbing but soft enough that it falls off when spent.

  11. I did a bit of gamefishing in my younger days -35 ft Shark cat of the west coast and 15 ft centre console in the Indian Ocean.

     

    You can catch fish in a yacht but I wouldn’t say they are great platforms- it takes a while to stop the boat, clear the gear then you need to back down (nightmare with a keel).

     

    Rigging everywhere restricting movement, stuff in the cockpit etc.

     

    You need to pull at 9 knots, ideally directly into the wind, circle fish sign and when a 200kg plus blue hits you need to react quick.

     

    Can you catch gamefish under sail from a yacht ... yes, and i’ll He towing a small jet head around this summer cruise just in case a yellow fin has a chomp.

     

    Would you seriously set up for it? Nah.... buy a Vindex.

     

    Also under around 8 knots you’ll loose tonnes of gear to Mako’s.

     

    If you want go Sailing buy a sailboat. If you want to go fishing buy a fishing boat.

    • Upvote 2
  12. I think it’s worth rethinking and moving past the whole wheel thing for your needs.

     

    1. A wheel takes cockpit space where you will spend a lot of your time

     

    2. Tillers are nicer to feel your boat. They make it easy to fit affordable self steering, including the ability to drive with bungies or sheet to tiller.

     

    3. Practically no performance 35ft yacht has a wheel.

     

    4. In the 30-40 ft range the advantages of tillers pretty much annihilate the advantages of a wheel without the hassles of mechanical linkages.

     

    Deal with your wheel envy and you have a tonne of great options available.

     

    The smaller wheel steered boats i’ve Looked at have tended to be poor retro fit jobs.

     

    Tillers you have boats by Wright, Young, the Cavs, Ravens etc, Townsend, Stewart’s etc.

     

    My 35ft Tiller steered boat is planning on going Way North and if I sold it today would be close to your price range ( I won’t sell her for twice that though as I have way to much sweat capital and $$$ in her now for that). That’s boats!

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