Tazzy Devil
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Posts posted by Tazzy Devil
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Take your pick on any mid to late 80’s kiwi cruiser in the 35-40ft range for that price...
Not sure why you wouldn’t go for a tiller on a 40ft boat but that’s a personal thing.
All keels are solid, all boats heel. Some more than others granted but you get used to heel quickly.
Plenty of Cavs, Raven 31’s etc on TM. Choose one you like, get a survey and buy it.
It’s all a compromise with boats. Light,fast,roomy, comfortable you won’t get it all. Pick what matters most.
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Hi all, this has now been sold
will deposit appropriate donation to crew.org!
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Just realised it’s all on my old phrf:
I= 13.61
J= 4.15
Luff length: 13.14
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Around 13 metres I plan to drag it all out and measure it properly once the weather comes right.
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Selling my Facnor Flatdeck (tape) furling unit and complete foil. Just removed from boat
My I= 13.61 J =4.15 so luff length around 12 metres.
Foil has lots of adjustment and can be cut to suit if needed.
Only selling as I don't need furling anymore.
Unit is in good condition.
Also have 9 month old Technora single taffeta Lidgard furling #2-3 jib, vertical battens and UV strip.
Off a Elliott 10.5 but would suit a Young 11, 1050 etc
Reasonable offers/ swaps/ trades before it goes on trademe.
Looking for beachcat, Air deck set up, 4-6 hp outboard especially.
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I’d be looking at some of the townson/cav/pacific 36 boats before something like that Beale. Loads cheaper and will get yo where you need to go. All old boats will need work if you can get something for 15k that only needs a few little tidy ups you’ll be better off. Then if you are keen buy your dream boat and go. You won’t care if you have to give your older boat away ( which if you want a quick sale you will have to do.
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Just another thing to think about.... you have health concerns. If it gets worse and you can’t stay on a boat you have something that will cost you $3-10k per annum at least (maybe more) that could take a year or more to sell and you won’t get capital gains.
For boat number 1 there is sense in buying a coastal cruiser- say a d28 or Stewart 34. Loads of boats around in the $25-30k price point. Lot’s simpler for diy maintenance. Cheaper to park and insure and if you lose 50% of purchase price no biggie. If you get desperate $1 reserve and you will have had a cheap adventure.
Chartering for a week or two offshore makes more financial sense sometimes.
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Big difference is Mangonui has a sheltered harbour
Whangaroa would be another option
Whangaroa would be great, start off kingfish lodge. Stunning backdrop and makes it worth the Aussie’s coming down a month or two earlier.
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I have a fair bit of load on mine and ended up going for a rope eye as the tack line kept breaking the plastic fairleads. Works great. Expensive though.
I’m using a Selden sprit and 2:1 tackline that runs up to the middle of the sprit then turns around 30 degrees to the rope eye. I had trouble with the tackline lifting off the deck too due to a pretty aggressive reverse sheer and a gently sloping cabin top.
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There’s a Newick in Whangarei that i’ve Looked at, very tidy. Not sure of performance but it’s a cool looking boat. On TM still been on for a while so possibly negotiable.
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Great, sound like it will be fine then.
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Cool! How did you reinforce the deck or was backing plate all you needed?
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I’m getting a code zero to run off Selden Carbon sprit.
Will be putting the sprit out around 1.1 to 1.3m.
Loads will be taken by the luff and a bobstay to the knuckle of the bow. 2:1 tack line to ease compression on the tack line
The Selden sprits are nice units but the weak link is the Wichard copy folding padeye which is all that anchors the unit in compression. This is anchored through the deck by 3 m8 bolts. The padeye is rated to 2tonne.
If I run 1 tonne of luff tension i’ m calculating about 1 tonne of compression.
So question for those that may have done this,... for a FRO on a 10.5m 4 tonne boat, what’s the luff tension likely to get to? In the real world.
Been advised the forestay runs around the 2 tonne mark.
I’ll use high density filler, plywood and stainless backing plates to reinforce the fitting.
The sprit itself, bobstay and fittings will be plenty strong.
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Yes. But a nice carbon main would be better.
I’d go for the mainsail.
Kiwigrip on mine- definitely treacherous up front.
I just did a full deck repaint and coated the kiwigrip on thin but re- rolled it quite aggressively. Theory being it will wear quick and i’ll just need to recoat it every year or so which will only take an hour or two.
I’ve seen that EVA stuff look awful on some boats and bloody hard to remove.
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Was given "vivid" last year so tried it, garbage! No copper as its for alloy hulls so has some other biocide in it and loads of barnies after only 6 months.
I use Vivid, you just need to clean it- Barnies release easy but it’s not designed for people who want to ignore the underside of their boat. As a bottom paint that is regularly cleaned it’s great easy to clean and lasts a season.
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Aluminium ends. So could i just grease up the ends coat in filler and stuff them in, once set tthe ends should be able to be pulled out (it's only a couple of millimetres rattle room so acetal sleeve wont work. Icre cream container shims might though.
Fixings- are Monel rivits x 4 fine to fix it all in place?
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I’ve got a lovely carbon tube in my garage that needs ends put on it.
The tube ID is 78mm, pole ends are 76mm.
Any advice on the best way to pack it out and attach the ends?
Anything wrong with high density filler and glueing them in place, maybe a couple of Monel rivers?
Not sure on this one. Don’t want to wreck the nice stick!
An
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So have I got this right.... I could get a tonnage survey ($500 odd), pay £153 and i’m good to go to Fiji?
If so why would anyone pay MNZ and go through CAT 1?
Any down side to doing this?
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Can’t find the wait list, missed out due to work stuff and am trying to get on it. Anyone have a link:
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I spent the longest time figuring out why my fancy names 2k compass was 20 degrees off then realised that when I did the spinning around then take off in a straight line calibration it was calibrating for true north but the instruments were interpreting as magnetic. Changed my gps and displays to true and it was fixed. I could have omitted the straight line part of calibration and it would have calibrated to magnetic.
Hope that all makes sense. Garmin compass.
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The problem with this event only getting coverage on social media is that it is preaching to the converted. Sailing as a sport is not really growing. If it had mainstream media coverage at least you are putting it out in front of potentially new people to sailing.
True, but is this a race to inspire newbies into sailing?
Cold water, no sleep, broken sh*t.
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How much for the spinnaker? Is it .75oz?
Very keen!
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At you price point you have options- there was a big leap between the mid 70’s and mid 80’s boats in performance.
In you size range cockpit space matters. A boom tent is way more useful than a few more inches of galley space.
Another thing to consider is that the cruiser racers are often more efficiently laid out. Less cupboards and draws and cabinetery that holds stuff you never use and more scope for getting the boat how you want it.
Storage space is a bit overrated. I’ve got loads on my current boat but it just ends up getting packed with crap.
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I think the SR 26 and the Ross 780 look like fun but a bit smaller than I think will suit my needs as I want to do some extended cruising. The Lotus 9.2, the Young 88 and the Whiting 29 are on my list. There are a couple of other possibles but it seems fairly hard to find much information online for older NZ boats.
SR 26 is pretty roomy inside. Little Tardis sone of them. Good cockpit for a boom tent too. Whiting 29’s are nice boats
Something sensible, Hauraki Gulf, east North NZ, while we save for Cat?
in MarineTalk
Posted
6-10 knots in a 50k boat that’s roomy and has wheel steering.... um not likely!
You can’t have everything!
Tillers are dryer than a wheel usually too as you can drive from the gunnel (or anywhere in the cockpit).
Open transoms are good for fishing.