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Tazzy Devil

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Posts posted by Tazzy Devil

  1. Navico advised against going wireless as the mast is 15.6m and the receiver couldn't easily mount on deck as it's all a working surface - when I spoke to them. The plan was to avoid having to run the backbone into and out of the mast display bracket as that would involve two splices and more holes in the mast plus fishing wire through - doable but the Garmin option was easier as I could hook the blackbox to a drop off the backbone at the mast base and leave only the one cable (backbone) going into the mast bracket.

     

    Only have to manually enter the MHU offset (which I have the number - 2 degrees) so have arranged to borrow a Garmin unit for the 10 minutes that will take. Stored in unit so once it's done it's done.

     

    As an aside the B & G triton 2 and Vulcan setup I have installed is pretty amazing for an entry level set-up, everything else is working sweet  with very visible displays and more options than I can use. very happy with it.

  2. Basically the mast was too tall for wireless and I wanted to terminate the backbone in the mast display box so couldn’t have it terminating at the Masthead. If it hadn’t been for the PBO article claiming it would work I would have gone all b and g drilled more holes in the mast etc. it’s done now though.

     

    I have a plan now so will try to sort it after checking in with Garmin.

     

    Thanks heaps!

  3. Anyone had any issues calibrating using triton 2 displays?

     

    I have a Garmin wind sensor and heading sensor both N2K but for whatever reason my Triton2 displays won't store calibration offsets. overseas reviews say the should work together fine.

     

    All the literature says N2K is N2K so was wondering if this was a b and g thing or am I missing something?

     

    Try to store offsets (heading and MHU) and the displays think about it for a bit then say failed storing offsets.

     

    Will call B and G tomorrow and Garmin but just wondering if anyone else had these issues - it could be a defective unit somewhere on the network perhaps?

  4. Twisted Sisters was a whole heap of work when I looked 12months ago, fittings mostly stuffed and a hole in the side that hadn’t had attention in a very long time. Would look at it if it was free as a project.

  5. Thanks,! DST 800 is too wide. The current tdx is a st850 speed -h. According to air mar the 2k st850 will retrofit. Unfortunately they are not all that common. I’ve ordered one, just hope it arrives in a timely fashion.

  6. Nah, it's definitely all coming through,I think the Triton can only calibrate smart transducers, there's processor on the network now. I'm hoping there's a way to calibrate in display but if not it's try to find a retrofit smart insert. If not that it's a bloody haul and fit a new TDX.

  7. Have a couple of questions regarding electronics. I've just uninstalled a b and G H2000 system and replaced with NMEA 2000 Tritons and Vulcans. I went to a 2k wind setup and heading sensors but to avoid a a haul out ran the B and G analogue Speed and depth transducers (2 seperate transducers) through a DST-2 to convert to 0183 and then AT10 to 2K.

     

    The depth works fine but I can only set offsets in display, no biggie. The tritons are refusing to calibrate speed, and there is no in display option.

     

    So questions: Is there a trick I'm missing?

     

    or:

     

    Is there a speed only 2k option that will fit in the housing? 

     

    In the frantic dash to get her sorted for Coastal Classic so would appreciate any advice!

  8. Yep, I have a Vulcan 7, fed wind and depth/speed via Advansea 0183 gear running a tp22.

     

    At the mfd I can set course, steer to wpt or to wind (app or true), I can also set tack/ gybe angle and initiate tacks or gybes.

     

    Also on the network is a Garmin unit downsteers where I can set course and wpt but not wind. Can see wind data and trends etc though.

     

    Easy to switch between sailsteer and ap control. Awesome piece of kit the Vulcan is.

  9. As a FYI, I've put 55k +/- into my little project so far and think I have around 15 more to go, mostly on a couple more sails.

     

    Of the original boat I have kept the bare hull less some of it's transom, 1/2 the cabin top/foredeck, the mast, the boom, the keel, the bottle opener. Everything else is new plus I've added some nice fruit (and some wank for wanks sake, just because I can) on top of that which she didn't have when I started.

     

    But in that sum is a nice amount that went to R&D and 'wank for wanks sake just because I can!!', like the 4 galleys I've built before settling on the one now in there, making and testing lots deck connection ideas, blowing part 4 rope jammers while testing all the brands to see what I'll fit, imported carbon fibre hinge for Nav table and a bit too much fecking around like that. These actions also added a tad more time that originally planed.

     

    There is no yard/storage costs in that sum. Watch for those as they can add up fast. 5 hundy odd for a truck to and from the water.

     

    So I am thinking your number is not an unrealistic tweaking budget for what you're thinking about. That is very good as that tweak budget is the one that usually catches most people out.

     

    I'm not planing on a monster refit but am thinking rigging, blocks, clutches, halyards, Nav gear, Cat 1 gear and maybe one or two big items (bottom Job, engine, mast) maybe deck paint and vinyl wrap. Will strip my current boat for parts before selling as theres a heap of new stuff on there that can be swapped for the servicable but not so new stuff in my garage and doing that won't effect performance or resale very much at all (but is probably going to save $5-10K at  the chandlery. Quite a bit will be DIY and can be done on water at a work berth. 

     

     

     

    Keep sailing the boat as that will probably prove more valuable for cruising the islands than having it parked up getting a pretty paint job. More planning to tweak away as we figure out what works.

     

    I still think by doing it that way I'll get a boat that works better and will do more sailing than waiting till I can buy a fancy euro boat.

     

    Really like the look of the Farr 1104 "Revolution" on Trademe, anyone know anything about it? Sounds like the Farr's have been offshore plenty.

     

    Will look at D35's too.

  10. Agree with marinhheiro on Lotus 10.6 Also a couple of Contessa 32 on tme are well known offshore performers

    Seen the Contessa 32's - probably a touch small and while I understand they are impressive vessels offshore for the size, They look a bit cramped inside and I do want to still be A division in the club racing, while i get ready to go.

     

    A S34 or Farr 1104 will do that.

     

    Anyone have any advice on Farr 1020's or 38's too. Few of them could be options.

  11. From what I can see boat prices are still falling or boats aren't moving. For the right boat stretching the refit budget to $100 odd K would work. I just want to get a boat and sail it then chip away at getting it right.

     

    Seen a heap of the fancy AWB's with stuff like TV's, full size fridges, 2 heads etc which I don't want.

     

    Revolution on trademe has got me interested as a boat to start with haven't got too far into it but it may need a new engine at some stage.

     

    Wild Thing is up here now and is why an 1104 has my interest. 

     

    If I didn't have a wife who would join me once up there I'd be looking at Squealer but not sure how that would work with two kids, surfboards and kite boards onboard in Tonga for a couple of months.

     

    There's also a Mick Elmes Magic Carpet in Keri and the S 34 "Palmyra" with a new engine and paint job that look good but an S34 could be a challenge offshore.

     

    Don't want to take 930 up there, that much I know.

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