Neil
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Posts posted by Neil
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A great weekend up at Mahurangi for the Classics. While there I had a chance for a bit of drone air time early Saturday morning at Sullivan's Bay and thought you might like a look at the result. Some of you might even spot yourselves.
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Hoping to have Placido there. Juggling logistics and commitments etc. at the mo, but should make it. Will enter once I'm sorted
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Dowel from Mitre10, a finial of a short piece of larger dowel, varnished then a couple of brass bits for the hoist and cleat and hey presto. Mounted in a rod holder, cheap, cheerful and looks OK, I think.
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Agree with fish. Early this year had the same problem although took a while to realise what it was as the debris in the tank was blocking the outlet pipe inside the tank (and not all the time) and thus we didn't see the filter get messed up. Ended up taking tank out and cleaning it. We also put big inspection hatches on it so I could do the job in situ next time.
Here's the discussion: http://crew.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic/15234-air-in-diesel-lines/
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Yep, should be with corrosion inhibitor. Buy some ready to use from repco or super cheap, automotive stuff is fine. If your coolant hasn’t been changed for some time, change the lot. And, if it’s the turbo version, don’t forget to bleed the air from the little brass plug above the water tube by the exhaust outlet on the manifold.
IT a quick question: The project is making progress albeit in a fiddly, awkward and everything difficult to get at way. Installed the new tank and re-plumbed the engine (the freshwater for the taps still requires some further tricky plumbing). Once the engine was hooked up I unscrewed the brass plug marked in the picture and filled the header tank until water poured out of the hole then plugged it back up again. Is that all I need to do in terms of bleeding the coolant or will I get further air locks once I run the engine? Presume I just run at idle and loosen the plug until only water is coming out? I am a bit uber paranoid about the turbo not being cooled properly as I'm picking that is pretty important. I'll start the engine once I've got the rest of the plumbing done over the next few days.
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New tank on order so hopefully all put back soon.
Neil, you will lose some coolant. Unavoidable. It will drop to the heat exchanger level. No problem, except the mess. Just top it up when refitting. Above the coolant tube on the exhaust riser is a brass plug. Open that when refilling to remove the airlock, or better yet take it out and put it where the barb to the header tank hose is - swap them around to avoid airlocks in future.
IT, when I come to plumb back in what should I use to top up the engine coolant? I was thinking just plain old de-mineralised water same as I'd top a battery up? Or is there something else I need such as a corrosion inhibitor? Plenty of coolant still in there so only a top up really.
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General Marine services (GMS) do new ones, or maybe https://www.hotwatercylinders.nz/low-pressure/marine-and-motorhome-cylinders/superheat-marine-and-motorhome-cylinder-25lt.html#.W-O9UtIzbcc
no doubt there are others...
Yep, GMS is one of the many places on my list to go visit this week.
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Yep, its stuffed. What type of, and what % of corrosion inhibitor was in the cooling system? That's failed due to corrosion...
The engine coolant will have whatever they put in at the last service. However, I think the problem is on the fresh/potable water side that goes to the taps in the boat which will be just pure water from the marina tap.
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Great post. What do you plan to do with the old 2003T?
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Yesterday I did just that. The leak seems to be coming from the tank itself in the area of the white stuff (which I presume is some form of corrosion). The comedy moment was when I realised - too late - that the insulation inside the lining was thousands of bean bag beans. It took some time to get control of the garage back from the tsunami of little white balls!
Some pics and you can just about see the leak in the video:
Priscilla, thanks for the link, I'll contact those guys and see what advice they can give, not much hope for the tank though I think.
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If it wobbles fix it properly before you or one of your whanau wobble overboard.
Here's another vote for fixing it before you regret it.
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Tank out with surprisingly little mess
Now I'm setting up a test in my garage to determine the source of our problem. There is a leak from the tank which I thought might have been the relief valve but now think the tank itself is f**ked.
Any advice on buying a new tank/calorifier?
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For reasons I might discuss in another thread I have to remove the hot water tank (calorifier) from our Farr1220. On the tank there are 4 inlets/outlets as follows:
Potable Water (the water to be heated):- Fresh (cold) water in
- Fresh (hot) water out
Engine Water (the water doing the heating):
- Engine water in
- Engine water out
The first two are easy when it comes to disconnecting. For the first the freshwater tanks will be shut off before disconnecting for the second I’ll lose some water into the bilge that is sitting in the pipes between the tank and the hot water taps but that should not be much.
For the second two, I’m a little more cautious. The water from the engine comes from the fresh water cooling circuit on our VP2003T. See attached photo for the two connections on the engine that lead down to the hot water tank.
I do not want to disconnect the pipes on the tank and end up draining all the coolant out of the engine (the hot water tank is lower than the engine header tank). Should I be disconnecting at the engine end first? Note the two outlets on the engine are also slightly lower than the level in the coolant header tank. Once disconnected and caps put on the inlet/outlet on the engine will the engine still be ok to run?Also, I need to think about the reinstall later and making sure there are no air lock issues.
Thoughts?
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Spent Labour weekend and all the following week mostly motoring around the gulf, no sailing but very relaxing all the same. However, the complete lack of breeze did mean I got some good flying time in, here's Te Kouma after the crowds had left.
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Just a thought on the stats. Is it a case of (averaged over time and over many departures) more problems will occur in the first leg than in the subsequent legs of a long journey, particularly any unknown weak links in untested gear or crew? Thus NZ boats leaving are all (mostly) on the first leg of an off-shore cruise while the foreign boats have already been through that "first leg" test. Not saying it is the reason but it's a possible statistical anomaly.
A good comparison would be to know the proportion of UK boats leaving the UK and the proportion of UK boats needing rescue (or any other country for that matter).
Thoughts?
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+1 for Modern Plastics. I took in a long roll of baking paper with the shape of the window drawn on in pencil. Not a standard technique but they made them up from that no problem
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If you are looking for transport back from the coastal I may have an option for you. We need a car delivering back from the BOI to Westhaven after the coastal. It's not flash just an old Toyota station wagon but it'll get you home and you'd be doing me a big favour by driving it back.
There are only two conditions:
1 - You need to be over 25
and
2 - You need to be able to convince me that you are going to be able to look after the vehicle, drive sensibly and generally not be a danger to the good people of Northland and Auckland.
Anyone interested?
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Thanks all. Pedestal all back together with a generous coating of TefGel in the stainless/alloy joins.
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Having taken apart our steering pedestal to replace the bearings I'm now (thankfully and after a lot of swearing) at the reassembly stage. Both the top and bottom assemblies are held into the aluminium casing by stainless bolts which had obviously had some sort of greasey gunk in there as some sort of corrosion barrier (I guess). They are all clean now and I was going to use lanocote to coat the bolts before I reassemble.
The question is, am I using the right stuff? Is there something better I should use to stop any issues with alloy and stainless together? The overriding consideration on this job is that I never ever want to take this f**king thing apart again, so need to plan ahead now to avoid any issues!
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Slightly, off topic but at the moment I'm replacing the top and bottom bearing in the steering pedestal of our 1220. Standard ball bearing based ones "6210 2RS" and was simply going to replace with exactly the same. As long as the pedestal remains dry inside all should be good - it wasn't watertight at some point in the past (compass light wire I think) hence the bottom bearing corroding out. However, you've now got me wondering if there is a plastic equivalent I could use to avoid all future corrosion issues regardless of my sealing abilities. Any thoughts?
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Certainly the traveler on the cabin top, and out of the cockpit, was one of the things that the admiral really likes about Island Time.
Ditto our 1220. One of Jo's requirements was not having "that bloody traveller" anyway in the way. So in the interests of compromise, I arranged for a "bloody big wheel" to be in the way instead.
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At the moment I am replacing the bearings in our steering pedestal and I'm thinking that while it's off I would restore the finish on the aluminium pedestal itself. The surface has had plenty of dings over its life, it's looking tired and there is some surface corrosion around some of the fittings. I'd like it to look good and most importantly to last as I intend to have this boat for a long time.
So the question is should I just get it repainted or should I get it powder coated? Any thoughts or preferences out there?
Excuse the greasy mess but here is the item in question:
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I'm in India working at the moment but I just heard that the live-aboard couple on the boat next to ours were out in worst of it last night doubling up my lines and checking everything was ok with the boat. We're directly upwind of them and I think they were starting to get concerned.
It's great to have good neighbours, I owe them...
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Had a great weekend over at Te Kouma and back via Waiheke. Good sailing, good company, awesome. Poked our nose into Oneroa Sunday on our way back from the 'Mandel and have never seen it so busy. Rather than play bumper-boats in the night, we opted for around the corner in Owhanake instead.
Ultra Swivel
in TechTalk
Posted
Ditto with us, as soon as the shank comes up onto the roller, stop and it settles the right way around every time.
The bit you missed was having to gently drive off leaving the anchor swinging in the water for 5mins while the wake washes off the 5 tonnes of mud, sand and dirt that it comes up holding on to. Always a good sign it was well dug in
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