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bazzathemammoth

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Posts posted by bazzathemammoth

  1. 3 hours ago, wheels said:

    Just the Kit? You mean a bag of plastic ball bearings and a couple of Races they sit in is $2K?
    I believe that even though they are " sealed" some have found they can be pulled apart (although it could be the LS series, or Drum type furler) and a good clean and lubricate has fixed the issue for some. It's going to have to be removed to work on of course. Worth a look. Even if it is the LS series I have heard about, I see no reason why the Flatdeck can't be dismantled. Unless some part is swaged, my view is that if it went together, it must come apart. Then just replace the Delrin ball Bearings.

    +1 to this. I managed to sort our old code 0 facnor furler by stripping it down, cleaning and relubing everything. It's still working fine some years later.

  2. On 7/04/2022 at 4:46 PM, CarpeDiem said:

    Out of curiosity is it a straight linear increase if you run (same length) cables in parallel?

    Eg, is two 35mm2 cables between contacts the same as one 70mm2 cable?

    Cause AWG2/0 is a seriously FAT cable!

    Yes.

  3. 3 hours ago, NoMaker said:

    Howdy all! 

     

    You may or may not remember me asking for advice about buying a boat and living on it last year- well I've just finished sailing around Northland and Great Barrier and Im now living aboard in Auckland. Life is much better when your outboard isn't almost dying every time you try to get home. The outboard ran great for the last 3 weeks but has now developed oil fouling on the spark plugs. I've changed them twice in 10 days already, I was hoping it was just an issue from maybe leaving it on its side but I would have thought the oil would have burned off by now. I only use it for about 3 minutes at a time going to and from my boat. its a '08 Yamaha F2.5 4 Stroke. Any advice on what to try next would be really appreciated. 

    Is it definitely oil fouling and not fuel?

    What's the oil level like? Could the piston rings be buggered?

    If fuel: Choke on for too long? Starting on open throttle?

  4. I support a total ban on scallops until their numbers are back up. Something has to be done.

    I like the idea of research into why they have decreased so much. I would love it if this research investigated the efficacy of a total ban on dredging too. 

    I've said for a long time that we need scallops to be freedive only, like paua. Then the deep scallops seed the shallower ones and the beds can't get decimated like they do now. I know this is unlikely to happen unfortunately.

    If anyone (commercial or customary) can take a particular seafood, then every nz resident had a right to take home a feed of it as far as I'm concerned. Size limits need to be the same for all.

    • Upvote 5
  5. Good to hear. When I install a stereo I normally wire the first speaker in, then add the rest in one at a time.

    For the other speakers I figure out how to wire by playing a bass heavy song and changing the polarity to figure out which way sounds better. I find the best way to do this is to use the fader/balance adjustment - if bass goes up as speaker brought in then it's good if not it's bad. Sometimes it's not that easy to tell. Acoustics is a really complicated topic and this is a basic way of getting the best sound from a budget system.

    If you have the coin then a full time alignment and 16+ band eq system will knock your socks off, but I don't know of any marine versions. Most of my 12v audio is from cars back in the day.

    • Upvote 1
  6. On 26/11/2021 at 8:24 AM, aardvarkash10 said:

    Yeah - its all fine except that the two speakers face each other across the cockpit.  If you sit exactly between them its like headphones.  Anywhere outside that sweetspot its either silence or some degree of frequency cancellation.

    No offense, but that's not how it works. When both speakers push out = high pressure, when both speakers suck in= low pressure. If one pushes out when the other pulls in = no pressure. Swap the polarity to one of the speakers and I'll bet you will get your bass back.

     

    Plenty of boats have speakers facing each other and sound ok (mine included).

  7. 10 hours ago, Young Entertainer said:

    are there any brands that do decent 6x9s still? the problem i have is that the holes in the cockpit are already cut so to change to another speaker size means filling, painting etc. so at this stage i replace with cheap marine 6x9s out of the states as they are the only option i can find but i know that they will only last a coupe of years max and then i will have to do something

    I believe that fusion do 8.8" speakers. That could be an option if they fit? 0.2" is only 5mm so most likely would be a straightforward swap as long as you had the room for the extra height. They would crank too!

  8. On 21/11/2021 at 12:12 PM, aardvarkash10 said:

    Older fusion head unit feeds two very poorly placed speakers in the cockpit (hint to anyone setting these things up - do not put a speaker each side of the cockpit facing each other, noise cancellation is a thing). So old its running an AUX cord set-up.  No Bluetooth.

    Using the RCA-out from the Fusion head unit to feed a little 25w D Class amp that powers two small speakers from a Sony 5.1 surround system, bought for $5 from the local Red Cross shop.  These are at the front end of the saloon in each corner facing the length of the saloon.  Corner placement emphasises what little bass response they have and they are surprisingly balanced.

    Music is Spotify playlists and all sorts from Dave Brubeck (Take 5 fame, 1950's jazz) to King Missile (of Detachable Penis fame) by way of 1960's, 70's, 80's 90's and 2000's alt-rock and alt-country and pop and EDM and most stuff in between.  Radio includes BFM, RNZ but you probably already figured that out.

    Have you checked that the polarity is right for the speakers? 

    Also +1 for the signature range fusion. I installed 2x7.7" and 2x6.5" with amp and new bt remote into mates fizz boat the other day. It cranked hard enough that he decided not to buy a sub 😁

  9. We love our manson supremes. Had one on Jetstream and one currently on pork chop. Digs into sand like crazy and resets quick as. 

    We bought a new one last year (35lb with 20m chain) and when sussing options the boys at CRA reckoned the rocna wasn't as good as it used to be. 

    Oh and you couldn't pay me enough to put a plow on my bow!

  10. 3 hours ago, Fogg said:

    Yes I think dredgers are a lazy relic of the past and should be banned. Go diving or go shopping.

    Personally I don’t want the hassle of scuba diving so I free-dive for them when I can - which serves the dual purpose of keeping most scallops safe and me fit.

    I reckon that's how it should be - freedive only, and then the deeper beds seed the shallower beds. For now banning dredging is a good start.

     

    6 hours ago, armchairadmiral said:

    Yeah...we get around there occasionally and would also support. BUT...it's OK for divers but how about those boats who don't ,can't ,won't dive. Is that fair ? I've seen the damage dredges to the beds...So a total ban is good while the powers that be work on the fairness and equity thing for non diving recreational boaties

    We could say the same thing about paua, is it fair that the only divers who can get them are the ones who can hold their breath? If you can afford a boat you can afford to buy some scallops.

    Seafood gathering is a privilege and one that needs to be enjoyed sustainably. That at least as valid for the commercial crews/customary fishers too IMO.

    • Upvote 3
  11. Hey all.

    We are starting to plan a trip to the 3 kings next summer. Do you have any advice about this? When is the most settled weather? The plan is for some fishing/spearfishing/diving. I need to shoot me a 30+kg kinghy :) TIA

    • Upvote 1
  12. That's a good idea

    The link i shared showed a snake that won't bend, they are designed to go through large diameter duct and physically couldn't double over itself in the mast. They have a large bend radius and would need a big force to snap.

    Can you not take the sheave out and then push the rod in from the top?

  13. You could use that, but those have a tendency to wrap around while being pushed down a large diameter tube, YMMV. A vac can work really well if there aren't any significant holes between vac and entry point.

    Failing that you could try a fibreglass snake, eg https://firstchoicecomms.com.au/product/fibreglass-snake-100m-reel-4mm/. if you know a linesman they might be able to loan you one for some beers.

    Years ago I used to hire them from the likes of hirepool, but nowdays I use a vac + bag + stringline for long pulls through big ducts. If I was you I would try the vac option first.

    Good luck

  14. Hey guys. Just checking in.

     

    We are chilling out, anchored outside russell. There are going to be fireworks and the kids are stoked as. This has been our first boi trip and we love the place. How are your new years?

  15. Thanks for the replies. The boat had just been serviced by the yanmar agents, so I think that insurance would have a hard time saying that we were negligent. Also I would rather base my decisions on actual risk instead of hypothetical situations. Some other brand sail drives only use 1 seal and seem to be surviving ok.

     

    After having a further look today I think that the inner diaphragm was never installed properly as I cant find the inner steel band. I'm not sure if this contributed to the tearing, but we have carried this risk since buying the boat and it has been ok.

     

    Regardless, I think the boat was repowered in 2007 so 12 years life is reasonable for what is supposed to last 6 years. I think I would rather know that the outer seal is 100% so that I can feel confident in taking it up the coast this summer. It scares me a bit that the only thing in these saildrive boats between floating and sinking is a bit of rubber that is attached to a hunk of metal with explosions and rotating parts inside. 

     

    After having a look into it, the pros reckon its a case of pulling the saildrive out from above, giving it a birthday and putting it back in. Ill do a few other jobs on it while its out and then at least we should get a few more years before having to worry about it again. Good thing we were planning on hauling out for antifouling next week anyways.

     

    Oh well, we didn't really need that $1200 and spare weekend before Christmas I suppose....

  16. The inner seal is the one that is cracked. I assume its purpose is some kind of backup for the outer seal.

     

    I haven't checked the alarm yet, but there's no water to trip it at this stage. We are hauling out next week to anti foul, so that could be an ideal time to do it.

     

    Is it a case of pulling the prop off the sd, then the sd off of the engine, then sd out of the boat, fix it and reinstall?

  17. Hi guys

     

    We have recently discovered that the diaphragm B in our yanmar sd20 sail drive has split (see pic). It isn't leaking any water, so I assume diaphragm A is still solid. I have a few questions:

     

    Have any of you replaced these diaphragms? If so how much did it cost and how difficult was it? 

     

    How risky do you think it is to continue using the boat like this?

     

    Do you think the local Yanmar dealer should have picked this up in their recent service?

     

    Thanks

    diaphram sd20.png

  18. I agree that makita is not what it used to be. I would never consider it with the many stories i have heard from multiple people lately.

     

    I have found ryobi the best value for money, and i use an older lithium brushed 18v. Its not very powerful for a 18v drill but far less expensive than the others. I have done plenty of tough work with it drilling into steel, stainless, and hardwood. My first one broke after 5 years and it's replacement is still going strong 4 years later. At just over $100 fof just the drill it is a no brainer for me. Their chucks are their main weakness though, and my one is now pretty buggered.

     

    Milwaukee is generally the most powerful and I think they have now sorted their reliability issues. AEG seems pretty good too, I havent heard anything bad about them and have worked with a few guys who use them. I'm sure u know that brushless is worth getting.

     

    This is my experience as a sparky over the years.

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