bazzathemammoth
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Posts posted by bazzathemammoth
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Haha they must be getting that heaps atm. I need a good stereo, so just bought the 750ud for the boat and had a barrage of questions for fusions techo man. Hopefully I will be getting it up and running this weekend, and eventually I would love to hook up my old sub for when we are in summer cruise mode.
The 750UD seems like a pretty solid unit, although I was a bit disappointed that it doesn't do VHF receive like the previous model, however I will just dodgy up some leads to hook our VHF up to it. Its gonna be really handy having radio control from the cockpit for VHF volume during races.
Today was also my introduction to the raymarine rape fest. I still cant believe they charge retail $100+ for a 400mm ethernet cable with special plugs at each end to hook the fusion radio to our MFD.
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Hey all
These are ex Tauranga city council. 5 years old and used in a UPS that was responsible for maintaining power to instruments and computers until the generator kicked in, so not deeply discharged. 40Ah 12v and $40 each, pickup in otumoetai tauranga. I might be able to get them to rotorua/hamilton as an alternate pickup spot but no promises. Sold as is, no warranty.
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Pork chop (Elliott 10.5)... Heaps of fun, but lots to learn now
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We have bought a faster boat and now have Jetstream up for sale. Its been a great boat and we will be sad to see her go. It is very similar to a Y88 and will get up and boogy when the conditions are right. We have mainly used her for harbour racing in tauranga but have done a bit of coastal racing/cruising as well and I have recently singlehanded her from tauranga to great barrier island and back. We have kept her in good running order and she comes with heaps of good gear:
Racing Main new 2014
Cruising Main
#1 Spinnaker
#2 Spinnaker
#1 Genoa
#2 Genoa new 2015
#3 Genoa
#4 Genoa
New windows 2014
Fill and fair hull 2014
Nexus instruments new 2012
15hp 2 stroke yamaha new 2014
st2000+ autohelm new 2016
LED nav lights, anchor light and main cabin lights (upgraded in the last year)
105ah battery new 2014
25# Mason supreme anchor
25# Mason plow with spare chain
Bosuns chair
Harnesses and life lines
30w solar panel and controller
Sea anchor
Inflatable Dinghy
Assorted galley gear
Squabs in good condition
Various spares and tools
$55,000 for boat and berth (C46). PM me or Addem if interested (note pic shows old main)
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Dont forget that fully discharging lead acid batteries will wreck them. Also it takes a long time to charge from 80-100%. This means that running a typical cruising battery discharge cycle of 30-80% will leave you with only 1/2 of the batterys stated capacity as usable.
Also not all ah are equal. You will need to consider the ah rate with the amount of amps the outboard requires. Higher currents mean less ah due to internal resistance of the battery
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Yes but nothing particularly clever. Pretty much what willow said as well as polishing the solar panel on the wireless wind transducer to make it charge again. Good luck!
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Build one of these. No one will ever steal it.
http://m.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-a-Boat-out-of-Two-Sheets-of-Plywood/
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Looks great, although i imagine equalising could be difficult/amusing depending on whether you were doing it or watching someone else!
For a way less expensive option try being towed behind a boat with snorkeling gear on. I did that once through a boil up and it was incredible! Was easy to control depth and had some side to side motion.
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I would be keen to crew as well if anyone has space. Ill help whatever way I can and am handy with most things, especially a multimeter. Also can scuba dive/spearfish which comes in handy sometimes!
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+1 for rust-o-leum
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As mentioned in the earlier thread in the racing section we have been wanting to have a faster boat. http://crew.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic/12456-upgrading-boat-opinions-wanted/
After sailing on Meister (thanks again!) we have all but decided that the Meister upgrade is the way to go. So I thought I would once again tap into your collective wisdom and see if you had any more useful ideas to help us plan/organise the upgrade. The main things we are changing are the reshaped bow, new keel and re-rigging for a mast head kite.
We have found an engineer who is sussing out the viability of installing a new bulb keel, but we don't have a builder lined up. Do any of you know of a builder in tauranga or auckland that you would recommend for this type of work? We are happy to do most of the grunt work ourselves and just get the builder to do the more technical bits.
Also what are your thoughts on vinyl vs paint? My main concern is price and longevity. How easy is it to spray a boat? I have access to a commercial airless sprayer, would that be the go?
Thanks in advance!
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We have all but decided on the Meister upgrade. I have created a new thread in the Tech section for this. Thanks for all your help!
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We have been having similar discussions about our boat. Here are a few points that I think are worth looking into
- The best quick charge solution that I have found is the outback battery charger, basically a 55a alternator connected to a small 4 stroke motor. https://www.macfarlanegenerators.com.au/products/c113/Outback-Battery-Chargers
- It is easier/cheaper to minimise consumption than to provide more power. As you have done, have LED lights on all regularly used lights, especially the anchor light. How much do u really need that fridge?
- Also dont forget that discharging a FLA battery below 50% shortens its life, and below 30% damages it irreparably. Also it is difficult to get a battery back above 80% unless on overnight charge. This means that you effectively have 1/2 of a batteries rated capacity as usable. We have 115aH and only run the basics (no fridge or autopilot). I think you might need more batteries.
- Most battery chargers will lose their warranty if run by generator (was told not to do it by the boys @ burnsco)
- The output of an alternator on an outboard is lower at idle than its rated output. you might get 5a out of it if idling to charge (and only from 30-80% charge.
- Simplicity is good. We have a one two both switch for our batteries with the outboard connected to the switch and the solar panel connected to the house battery. This means that we can charge either battery by outboard. Connecting two dissimilar batteries together, even by VSR seems like trouble to me. I think that you would have more than enough CCA if you bought 2 115A house batteries and dropped the start battery. Your batteries would probably last longer as well.
I hope that helps!
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The phones/tablets use a mixture of Cell Tower triangulation, what WiFi networks it can see, and GPS. Some devices do not have a GPS chip (iPADs with no GPRS functionality for instance) & rely on the first two, the others would use whatever mix is available with you would hope a preference for GPS.
At least with iPhones/iPADs they upload a list of GPS coordinates & visible WiFi networks so via a data connection a device can figure out where it is in the absence of GPS.
Recently we moved house, WiFi moved with us with the same ID, then looking on "Find your iPhone" one or two devices still showed as being at the old address even thought they had GPS chips in them, so they were reporting their location back based only on viewable WiFi networks rather than consulting their own GPS data. Although at some point the coordinates of the network must be reported & it did correct after a few days. Would expect that Navigation apps use the GPS chip all the time, would not like to think they were using the boat next door's WiFi ID that was updated a day or so earlier!!
On android phones there is a GPS only setting for location. I assume the same is available for iphones?
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Definitely a real gps. Try using a gps app when in flight mode to prove it for ur phone.
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Yea i looked into that, but it would cost too much apparently.
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Pmd willow and ptown.
Pawn broker has been converted to fixed keel. Extreme is not really cruisable.
Meister mate u have done a great job on ur boat. Tbh we are more interested in racing than modifying so are pretty keen on getting a good to go boat.
Whats grunty chicken go like?
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Yea that's pretty much top of the list at this stage. Looks like heaps of fun.
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Thanks!
I fell in love with prawn broker then realised that its keel is too deep to fit in our berth. Was so gutted.
High spirits looks good but maybe not as high tech as desired. Ill mention it to the others.
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Hey all
We have decided to upgrade our boat. We have been sailing a Challenger 29 (will be up for sale soon) and are looking to move to something a bit faster/ more technical while not compromising on a basic level of cruising comfort. We race mainly in TGA harbor and a bit of coastal stuff.
Basically we want a boat that is:
Faster, especially into the wind.
In good order
Has a solid sail wardrobe and all the go fast bits to suit (eg prod, full hoist spinnaker halyards, code 0 furler etc)
Around the same size to fit into berth
Can sleep 5 people, even if a bit crammed.
It would be nice if it was setup for single/shorthanded sailing
Also would prefer outboard engine for simplicity and weight
We are happy to pay good money for the right boat
We have been looking at some semi modified ross 930s that seem to fit the bill, but I would love to know if there are any other boats we should have a look at.
Cheers!
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I've got an old laser on road legal trailer. Prob not what ur after though.
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Its a great idea to change the date. I've only done one Auckland tga and hated it. We drifted for a large proportion of it and I got pretty seasick. It was enough to put me off entering again. I hear this year was pretty bad for it as well. If it was moved to a time when it was more likely to be windy then I would definitely be more keen to race. I'd rather be sailing in 40knots than nothing!
Freebie Stereo
in MarineTalk
Posted
I do find stereo systems fascinating and have been resisting the urge to jump in on this discussion.
I will just mention that the reason car/marine speakers are 4 ohms is because of the voltage required to drive them, which is 1/2 of the voltage required for the same power output for an 8 ohm speaker. This is important because a good hunk of a car/marine amp is the DC-DC converter, which is cheaper and smaller when converting to lower voltages. Also as far as I'm aware, efficiency has nothing to do with impedance as efficiency is a measure of spl per watt @ 1m. A 91db 4 ohm speaker with a 4 watt marine amp will be as loud as a 91db 8 ohm speaker connected to a 4 watt home amp.
Ill have to admit that reading this makes me want to go and spend stupid money on a kick ass stereo for the boat. I had an awesome car stereo once and I've never really gotten used to having an average stereo again