clochmerle
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Posts posted by clochmerle
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I know some people find the idea of a TV on a boat abhorrent, but putting that debate aside for a moment I wondered what is thought of the following setup:
We want a smart TV since it can be a repeater for the chart plotter, but smart TVs start at 32" by the look of it, and that getting a little big for our saloon. The reality is that also is probably going to be more used for steaming media from a onboard mini PC.
How about a 24" monitor, with a Chromecast attached. That gets around the streaming issue.
Then, if ever I decided I really wanted Freeview, I wonder if I could get it to work with one of the USB dongles and stick it up a halyard???
Hi,
Don't know the best tv. I would use raspberry pi (good because 5 volts) with kodi installed for the media player, plug in an external hdd for the media.
the usb dongles don't have as good signal as a inbuilt freeview tv, I would try for a 12v tv somewhere.
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Hi,
Anyone seen a composite gas bottle for sale in nz? seem like a good option for marine, not too expensive, but cannot find anyone here that sells them.
http://www.southernseasmarine.com.au/composite-gas-bottle-cylinder
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Update on our solar setup, best thing i have ever done. Dont have to run the engine at all for power, the 50w panel generates more than we use 90% of the time so only running the engine 10mins a day for the freezer!
Everyone who cruises should have a solar setup for sure. I'm the same, everything led, blast the stereo, and know the batteries wont be going flat. Not that expensive, considering what some of the prices you pay for boat stuff. Fridge is only thing have to worry about, but usually have to motor every so often for a bit, so only problem if fridge on for a few days without motoring.
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I must say got a fair bit of input from my questions. I have made a decision not to furl at the moment. I spoke to a sailmaker about converting a number 1 genoa, he said you would convert the number 2, a number one would be saggy and what not, like people are saying. So I would have a number 2 max, dropping my speed in lighter winds. And any partly furled sail will perform worse.
I think furler only good for a big boat where you cannot handle the sails and you wont notice much of a speed drop. I think I will just have to get better at hanking in rough weather, or learn to read the weather better and make my sail choices better. Money would definitely be better spent on an autopilot that wasn't built in the 80's, thing I have now is a real pain to get right. ha.
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I have a Spencer 30 that came with a very similar furler as the Alado mentioned, loaded with a #1 head sail. Almost impossible (by your self) to change out, and absolutely useless when partially furled. With no knife edge on the luff and a bit baggy, when the wind got up I struggled.
Finally bit the bullet and removed the furler and bought a hanked yankee #2 high cut. Fantastic sail for the solo sailor, can be flattened up to 25kn before I need to drop down to a #3. Plus the bonus of the high cut gives great visibility.
I can see the advantage of a code 0 type furler, where the sail is furled and the complete assembly is removed, but the Alado type furler will require you to run a bolt rope up I think which is considerably more difficult than hanks.
Anyway, not trying to talk you out of your project, just sharing my experience.
Cheers
Useless when partly furled? I'm not experienced, I've never used a furler. Almost every single boat I see has a furling headsail, they can't be that bad partly furled? What do all these other people do when the wind gets too strong? Have a storm jib that fits on the furler and change it? They just loose a lot of performance when they furl? There's no way I can fit another forestay so I can hank on a storm jib, it will get in the way of the furler.
I'm not the best with judging the sails and weather, I've had a few troubles changing down sails in rough weather, thought the furler would be the way to go. And of course no way I can fold a large genoa by myself.
I saw a code 0 on trademe, so that is removable and uses rope? You would loose a lot of strength then?
Just want to make the boat easiest to sail by myself.
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Potentially off topic question, but why do you want a furler?
You mention it's a hassle changing sails by yourself.
If you are wanting a furler so as to part furl the sail to reduce sail area because the boat is getting over powered, they may be a different option.
I'm assuming a fair bit here, so apologies if I'm off.
Old sails get over powered easily. They are baggy and stretch to get baggier when the wind gets up. A logical response is often to think you need a smaller sail, or to get a furler so you can just part furl a little away. Generally, part furled sails have terrible shape and are not pleasant to sail with.
If your sails are a bit old, you will find a step change in performance with new sails. Specifically, I mean that they don't stretch when it gets blowey, and more so, you can flatten them out. This give depowers the sail, so the same size sail doesn't over power th boat. Being a spencer, which are a little tender, this effect will probably be more marked.
We have a narrow beam boat, and actually ditched the furler, as we never had the right sail for th conditions, always too small or over powered. We actually went for Hank on head sails, as nothing can go wrong short handed.
Depending on the state of your current sails, you may be better off spending the money on sails instead of a furler.
Of course, if you just want th convenience of rolling away you headsail, then ignore everything I've said.
I have a large genoa that is in very good condition. Just the hassle of changing sails when conditions change, and also effort in packing up. Pretty hard to fold away a large sail by yourself, I just end up stuffing it away, takes up space too.
Thanks for your reply.
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Check out Alado furlers. Fairly basic but do the job. There is another thread here where there is more detail. I priced one for the tri - about $1300.00 landed depending on exchange rate. A Spencer 28 would probably use the same unit (A1). If using an existing sail you will need to have the hanks removed and a luff tape sewn on and most fit a UV strip.
NZ agent is Len May sailfish.charters@outlook.com
Hi, yes I just found a trademe listing for alado and checked out their website. I think this might be a good option, the existing genoa is very good condition, I'll see about getting it modified.
Thanks.
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You should be able to get your current headsails modified to suit. I had mine taken back to hank on as when we got the standing rigging re-newed a replacement furler was quoted at 3k.
That's like nearly 1/2 the value of the boat
Thought I might be able to get a furler for around 1.5k? sail around same? Didn't think of getting head sail modified, I'll look into that. Really don't want to spend much, like you, boat isn't worth that much, but changing sails by yourself is a real pain. There is so many boats with furlers, sure there must be a secondhand one somewhere.
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Yes mine is an old engine: Bukh. Mono 30 is not a term I have come across yet, I don't think.
Is that the same as SAE30?
I was under the impression that synthetic oil for the bukh's was a major no no.. Also finding pure mineral oils using the SAE30 spec is getting expensive.
I have tried to stick to the spec's: SAE30, CD/CF, API, and 1st and foremost 20/40. It tends to get a bit confusing to someone that only buys oil once in a blue moon but the engine seems to be coping so far..
I have a bukh also, dv10. I read the manual says sae30, but this is a very old engine, I think oils have come a long way since it was made. I use mobil dieselmax 15/40w, i get it cheap and change often. I think any oil made these days would be better than the old 30w they recommend. By the way if you didn't know the ryco z418 fits the dv10, so don't need to spend heaps on the genuine filter.
a mineral oil will degrade and loose it's viscosity over time, a synthetic wont - so for instance the 15/40w will be more consistent over time and not go gluggy and give better protection. I cannot see any reason why someone would say don't use synthetic?
I cannot see any reason to worry, just buy known brand, best you can afford, change often you can, and keep eye on levels.
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So, I have a spencer 28, and no furler. On a budget, what would be best options? Any recommendations, anyone selling second hand ones? Price ranges? and of course would need a sail to go with it. Any types/brands to avoid?
Thanks.
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Yahoo! Summer's coming, and I'm getting slowly thru my 'to do' list. Change of filters and engine oil next. Of course, having read the blurb about 'liquid engineering' on the bottle, I'm going to use Castrol. But then, there's Mobil's advanced synthetics, not to mention Shell's engine life prolonging wonder-gunk.
Whatever bottle you pick up and read the label of implies you'd be a fool to use anything else. All the ships I ever sailed on seemed to have a preference for Shell Rimula, but talking with an old chief engineer of mine this preference was more related to Shell's dominance in the marine market than any superiority of product.
So what is the opinion? Are all diesal 15w/40s created equal?
Wow a lot of replies for this question. I did some internet research awhile back. 3rd party additives, forget them, don't need them, scam, good brand oils have the additives what you need. Synthetic will not degrade nearly as fast as a full mineral oil, so will offer much better protection as the hours build up.
Like everyone says, buy what you can afford - a good brand synthetic would work the best. If you just buy cheaper mineral and change often would probably offer good protection.
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Had a similar issue in the H28.
From the photo it appears that the gudgeon is bronze and the pintle is stainless steel. If this is so then almost certainly the wear is in the gudgeon. Is there is sufficient 'meat' in the gudgeon then take it off the rudder, drill it out and get a bush machined out of a bearing plastic - making sure its one of the non absorption plastics. You shouldn't need to replace the pintle.
This is what I did on my boat and it is still perfect years later. The advantage of a bush is that they are cheap so get a couple made. If the problem should re-occur in the future then its an easy fix to slip in your spare bush.
Seems like the way to go, doesn't seem like I'd be able to find a new pintle. Have to wait until it's out of the water and get a couple of bushes made then.
Thanks for the help.
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Hi,
I have a spencer28, the rudder has a lot of play, bangs about. The bottom gudeon has quite some wobble in it. Where would I get a replacement? or do people put a bush in there? or drill for a bigger bolt?
I'm in auckland, anyone know where to get a replacement gudeon?
Thanks, attached a picture..
Removing Sikaflex
in TechTalk
Posted
I have the answer, what you need are plastic razor blades. They are magical, you can scrape off almost anything and not damage the surface, then a scrub with citrus cleaner or meths to remove the residue.
I buy mine from aliexpress. Not sure who locally sells them.
I removed boat window sealant, and even a van roof with baked on vinyl wrap.