rmiker
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Posts posted by rmiker
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Go for it. And as I have pointed out before, they must send you a second notice ( they cannot be sure you received the first as it might have blown away). Then you have the right to ask for it to go to court - and this applies to Govt and local Govt bodies. Wilson's I suspect operate under bluff and bluster. They normally can lock you in in a carpark situation - something that does not apply here.Then if you chicken out, pay the day day before the court case or turn up and argue. Could be a year away.
If you don't offer a dispute to the original fee (and I call it fee because as above I do not believe it to be a fine) and return to a wilson's parking area they will clamp you or detain you in some way! I would be wary of just doing nothing.. You must dispute it: then they must justify is my understanding.
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I think you Must reply to them and state that you "Dispute" the fee..
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So, I have a spencer 28, and no furler. On a budget, what would be best options? Any recommendations, anyone selling second hand ones? Price ranges? and of course would need a sail to go with it. Any types/brands to avoid?
Thanks.
You should be able to get your current headsails modified to suit. I had mine taken back to hank on as when we got the standing rigging re-newed a replacement furler was quoted at 3k.
That's like nearly 1/2 the value of the boat
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Older engines usually require a Mono 30. Mono 30 is in fact a very stable oil.
Yes mine is an old engine: Bukh. Mono 30 is not a term I have come across yet, I don't think.
Is that the same as SAE30?
I was under the impression that synthetic oil for the bukh's was a major no no.. Also finding pure mineral oils using the SAE30 spec is getting expensive.
I have tried to stick to the spec's: SAE30, CD/CF, API, and 1st and foremost 20/40. It tends to get a bit confusing to someone that only buys oil once in a blue moon but the engine seems to be coping so far..
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Without getting a sample sent for analysis you wouldn't have a clue.
On the flip side we goto brand name oils for our tunnelling gear for hydraulics, gearboxes, bearings etc. Never had any issues.
That is what I thought would be the answer
Will just have to keep buying the bigger brand names and hope for the best: which is what the previous posters have suggested.
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Do both, good quality oil is the cheapest maintenance you can do.
I agree 100% Good advice!
But how can I tell what is good oil? Currently buy branded oil that meets the spec's that I need. But how do I know it is good oil?
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Vacuum Oil extractor as above.. They work an absolute treat for jobs like that. My last chore for mine was to vacuum all the rubbish out of my diesel tank as it was very conveniently constructed with no drain
This however let me leave the tank installed for cleaning. -
Nope, and no secrets
There are some things you cant discuss on the open forum (like moderation - that has to be done privately) but how the site functions is not one of them,I recently changed the membership system to try to get rid of the spam - (I still get to see it -Yay! but it virtually all gets deleted before the members see it now) there have been some unintended consequences, and I'm working on getting rid of them. Ill look at the profile rights - should be the same for all registered members, with a couple of small differences about allowing name changes, posting HTML signatures etc.
Was there a specific issue re profiles that bothered you?
Nice reply and I accept it as offered
Keep up the good work Island Time! this is a good site and I like it a lot. Your job is not one that I would like to take up and apologies for making it more stressful (even as a flea).Only thing that bothers me is that some can see and do and some not: I accept and condone moderators have to be above the main group to maintain the order and structure of the concept: but one shouldn't be classified as untrusted for too long to maintain trust..And as you have stated you are addressing that so I am happy at this stage.. And hope to use and be useful here for a while yet.
Regards,
Mike.
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Editing rights are restricted after 10 mins. As you get promoted through the member system you get more rights and more time. This is to prevent users editing stuff that makes the thread hard to follow, or entering into he said she said crap. Sorry if that is inconvenient.
Hmmm That is why my profile now shows less info than yours! Good site but does seem big brotherish and secretive. Sorry for the topic diversion: does this mean I get a warning now
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Moored at Algies and raced with Sandspit yacht Club. Think we were anchored next to Starfinder for new years eve 1999/2000, round from Russell in what was a wet new year
You have an excellent memory me thinks
Better than mine anyway: I didn't own her then but she would have been back in the Auck area by then. She went to Whangamata for about 18mths after I sold her about 1997. -
I had a wooden Nova (Summer Breeze) for about 10 years.
Were you based in Pineharbour? That vessel name seems to ring some bells.. There was a Nova 28 Assoc going in the mid 90,s as well.
I agree: Starfinder used to dig in and the water would occasionally come green back to the cabin top. I don't miss that: However it is not dangerous as long as everything is tight and in good order. Been on more than one commercial fish boat where this is a normal state of affairs
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So you think Waimanu could be a home finished one?
Not sure. But I don't recall seeing the dinette layout in any of the production boats I looked at... Someone else will no doubt know a bit more..Mine was professionally built hull and deck: the interior finished off by the owner.
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This is the cabin layout what I was talking about.
Is anyone seen similar like this on Nova?
That is a Dinette layout and not that uncommon: but I think more common in the wooden nova's. So yours may have been a home build possibly.
Mine was dinette with the galley to port and the table/dbl berth: freezer was stb with a single berth. Head and v berth in the bow. We only had 1 quarter berth to stb as the port side space was used for a cockpit locker. The engine was mounted on the center line of the vessel under the galley sink. A very useful and workable layout in my opinion: and I miss it today. Unfortunately I don't have any pics I can share. Even your squab fabric looks very familiar to me
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I used to own a Nova. Great reliable design.. She was Dble diag Kauri with a non-standard cabin top. I preferred the wooden ones as they had a bit more room inside. One of things that put me off getting another one is they are all under powered in in the engine dept and you need a minimum of 15knots to get any decent sailing. And we had some fantastic trips in the 20 kn wind range.
Is Waimanu II glass or wood?
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On a slightly more serious note..
I have spent a couple of hours rowing the dinghy around the harbour here in Whangamata and I really like it. With a bit of effort I can keep up with my wife in her kayak (and she's a sea kayak instructor) so it rows and tracks well. We can both stand up in the dinghy without worrying too much about an unexpected swim - not the same amount of stability as a deflatable but by far the best out of any rigid dinghy I've owned. The photo a couple of posts back was for a bit of fun but also experimenting with assembling and disassembling the boat in the water. It as remarkably easy to do which gives us the option of launching and retrieving the dinghy from the mother ship in light easily handled bits.
I had intended to make my fortune by building and selling these dinghies so templated every single part in 3mm MDF but, plans change. So whereas I would like to retain ownership of the construction manual and templates, I would also like to make them available free to anyone who would like to build themselves a nice little tender.
Chris... I would love to build one of your tenders. We currently have the 8' deflatable at home for repairs (done) and are using a 7' pram. The reason I haven't switched back is we are looking for a better option and you have it. We are happy to pay our share.. I will pm you my email.
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Very very nice Chris!! An inspiration to anyone who sees her I am sure
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Wherever you get it done, I'd get a detailed written quote first - saves problems later. You might like to try
General Marine Services GMS
196 Pakenham Street West, Westhaven
309 6317
Andy Marshall 368 0938 0217 390 04
andy@generalmarine.co.nz
Thank you Kevin.. I will.
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Can anyone recommend somebody with engineering skills who may be interested in replacing a cutlass bearing, engine mounts and stern gland for me.
I can have the boat slipped at Pine Harbour, Halfmoon Bay or Clevedon river: whichever suits best or anywhere else suitable for a boat that only draws 3'.
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I would agree that the staff are usually helpfulish. But unless you are a berth holder they are not particulary interested in providing any services. I have found this at HMB and Pineharbour within the last 12mths. HMB being more amenable of the two. In 1996 when I rented a berth at Pineharbour one of the guys dived in and changed my prop for me no charge: and when the waste oil container got washed into the marina they hauled and washed my boat before I even knew it had happened.
Things are definitely different now I am a mere visitor: But I don't think the core business is really to provide service to private boat users any more: seems a lot more commercial orientated so people like me are not to be overly encouraged to use their services.
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I did do a day sail up to Long beach once to give the hulls a scrub and the distance from Panmure to Motuihe is about the same as from Westhaven, I just find getting on and off the pile mooring takes a little bit more time as sometimes I need to wait for the tide to change. It is very secure and sheltered though and I prefer to go out for a few nights as a minimum anyway so I don,t need to rush. A swing mooring would make it a lot easier getting on and off with just one line to pick up.
We use a "high line" to pick up the mooring lines on our poles. This makes it a breeze to pick up either end to suit wind or tide. I can do it solo on and off no problem. When all is secure I just unsnap it in middle and stow the ends so no chafe against the rigging or on the dodger.
Have also left the dinghy on it a couple of times as well..
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rmiker, what is the boat, and why is she out of balance to begin with? Most of us go out of our way to remove weight from our boats, not add it!!
She's a Pelorous 25 ex Compass Yachts. Probably one of the very 1st from what I can gather. However They were all ballasted with concrete and steel punchings as you probably know already. Most of that was removed because the steel had started to/was corroding and I replaced it with lead set in resin. Because the person who removed the original ballast forgot to weigh it we have had to rely on a gross recommendation from a noted designer and estimate what is left and I have had to do some educated guessing using the original waterline to decide how much to install. So anyway I left 200kg out so I could balance the boat when she went back into the water: Which I have finally done after 12mths. Not convinced we need all the extra kg's for stability but she did float a little bit bow high and is still high 2" on the original waterline.
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Finally put the last 200kg of ballast into the foreward bilge to balance the boat: Should finally get a good even sleep..
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Hey Wheels there is a floating footpath next to me at GH, so I asked him about insurance, says he only has 3rd party but that was easy to get.
12mths ago I wanted 3rd party for my old grp boat and no one would do it! I had to take out full cover or nothing.. Weird.
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Yes me too. If the HM did step in: I wonder then if you could invoke any public liability clauses?
Kaikoura Wharf.
in MarineTalk
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Smooth sea never made skilled Sailor.
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