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Pumbaa

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Posts posted by Pumbaa

  1. No IT i'm talking about ignoring the 5 degrees of deviation not about holding a 5 degree course tolerance, I add up all the adjustments to the nearest degree (everything in true), heading,tidal offset, drift, var,dev and then I round the total adjusted figure up or down, normally to the nearest 5 degrees but at night I might make it to the nearest 10 degree line on the compass so it's easier to see for a compass course especially if you're having to hand steer.

  2. If everything is in magnetic there is nothing to convert. The plotter reports Mag, the compass (all of them) report Mag, the weather I use is reported in Mag, just as easy to plot on a chart in Mag as it is true. What is there to convert, nothing.

     

    I can't understand why you have one compass that needs correcting and one that doesn't. That's either a compass with a deviation issue which can be corrected or the compass is rooted.

    No, compasses give uncorrected (deviation) magnetic, IT said his compass is less than 5 degrees deviation, for me 5 is quite a high figure to ignore. I take it all and then give a simplified course heading. I generally don't bother reducing the annual variation unless it's really bad.

    A hand bearing compass doesn't have a deviation card.

  3.  If you're using magnetic then you still have to make an adjustment for your compass but not for a hand bearing one. I found it easier to stay and think in true, for the most part you only have to make a variation and deviation adjustment once, if you use only magnetic every action or plot requires adjustment. And for long courses using true the variation changes and is more likely to be accounted for by habit. Anyhow horses for courses as long as the fridge is cold.

  4. And the reason for that was simplicity, keep everything written down as true then at the end you produce a course to steer which would be noted in the log. Now you get information from all sorts of pieces of equipment with different yaw rates and nothing reads the same at the same moment. GPS, back up GPS, the plotter, the laptop the phone the autopilot all telling you stuff. When I go somewhere I've never been that has a tide or current effect after I've done the planning I just use the plotter on my phone and the helm compass to keep me sane.

  5.  

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Can you overtake on the left?

     

    Dual carriageways and motorways

    This scenario applies to urban dual carriageways and streets where there are two or more lanes.

    There are no laws in New Zealand that prevent you from passing on the left (or 'undertaking') on a motorway. expressway or dual carriageway if the vehicle in the right-hand lane is going slower. Drivers who have driven in the UK might find this odd.

    However, this doesn't mean that you are allowed to travel indefinitely in the right-hand lane on a motorway or expressway if you are not overtaking.

    That's from driving test nz

    However driving whilst using a phone is an $80 fine and 20 demerit points

    :razz:  :razz:  :razz:

     

    • Upvote 1
  6. The pvc glue is meant to be good for around 10 years plus or minus 5, the glue is very susceptible to heat but even a perfectly stored one will fall apart eventually. Aakron and Java are supplied by the same guy, he's friendly and approachable but his boats are not known for their longevity. Apparently he's now supplying a new line of welded seam boats.

    This list of well built Chinese rafts is not all of them but some well known ones; Terminator, Maxxon, Quiksilver, Honwave, Takacat, some Zodiac. They all have glued seams so when the handles and fittings start to come off it would be a good time to start saving your pennies for a new boat.

  7. IT made some good points about the water ballast bags underneath, blow it up in the garden or river bank and then cut the bags off with a knife. And the fittings are similar to an inflatable boat and they are easy to deflate. You've probably scored yourself a 20 year old waterproof torch (which won't work), a foot pump that looks useful but isn't, a blunt nosed knife and maybe some interesting charts and paraphernalia. All of which you'll dump in the bin eventually ;-) . Also if you're going to go down a river in it take the bottle off as well, Two ten inch crescent wrenches will probably take the hose off at the brass valve on the raft.

  8. I can't see what you have to lose, you've already bent them once so there's already damage that can't be undone but I don't think the damage would be significant for their use either. You haven't opened them right up, just put them back in and tap them down again. What is the worst that would happen any way- you'd lose 1 or 2 hanks in a race, they're just jib hanks, you could probably sail an entire race without any in at all. You're not lifting anything heavy or a person and If some do break then you know which need replacing. :razz:

  9. I can't believe you're thinking of selling it, I doubt if you've used it 10 times. Put some pictures up, is there an online reference for the magazine article about it?

  10. I apologise for the thread drift.

    I only recently became aware of the travel restrictions with regard to your super payments. I can sort of understand the pension but surely the super is your own. Even a pension shouldn't have restrictions. When we go I was expecting it to be sortable when you supply a B5/U4 certified by a notary public in blue ink on red paper by the light of the moon and at least 3 planets. 3 months in advance.

  11. Hey Pumbaa, I could do with your advice.

     

    I have RED brand paddleboard where the foam deck has let go, it was a lemon from day 1 unfortunately but I was in denial and didn't give it back.

    anyway , now the deck, the foam walk on/ decorative stuff is delaminating. A SUP guy here in akl says i can glue it back on with F2 , which would suit me , I have it.

    Does that sound right to you , or do I need something more aggressive/ specialised. They are hypalon boards.

    Pisses me right off of course. We bought one the first year and then bought a second of the same model the next year. The 'new' board is the lemon.

     

    Hi John,

    I'd use bostik 2405 with the desmodeur cross linking agent. Just because that's the stuff you should use for hypalon, F2 is useless. There would be an argument for not adding the desmodeur but if you don't want it to come off and you've got it, use it. Be careful of the foam I think was originally self adhesive and where it's stuck you can't use heat because it ruins the foam and if you're not careful sliding a putty knife under the edge it will tear easily.

     If you get it sorted, having hypalon will last you for years. I have big doubts about some of the pvc boards I've had in for repair.

  12. I used kiwigrip for the first time a couple of years ago. Friend of mine told me to pull the masking tape off soon after painting. I didn't get it off soon enough and it skins up quickly and leaves a ragged ugly edge. If I was doing it again I'd have someone following me around taking the tape off as I finish each area. If you wait for it to dry out is stronger than the tape and you can't get the tape up.

  13.  One of the things I do is that I repair the damn things for a living, my advice would be the Zodiac Cadet it's nearly all welded but the glue they use where they use it is an environmentally friendly wall paper paste. Or the Southern Pacific's a good light weight boat but I haven't seen their new Shearwater Air floor yet which would be the only one that has a V shape to the hull. Air floors are great but if they're a glued construction once they start to let go they're on their last legs. I've got an Avon with an air floor but it's welded. Also Zodiac are doing a cheaper brand called a Zoom. These are Chinese and glued together, nothing wrong with them but they are what they are and they're not a "Zodiac". For a light weight roll up it's hard to beat the Southern Pacifics. As for a V shape in a small 2.2-2.4mt the benefits would be very small and they end up heavy if they have a ply floor. If you got a small S'Pac you'd be able to shorten your painter right up to the push pit or easily drag it on deck.

  14. Here's the link to the service stations and their brands;

     

    https://www.maritimenz.govt.nz/Publications-and-forms/Commercial-operations/Shipping-safety/Liferaft-service-stations.pdf

     

    The number of persons in a raft is a YNZ rule not a pack choice. The raft industry is still a closed shop. So the raft has to go to the manufacturers approved service station that holds the correct ticket for that particular raft. If you have a car it can be taken to any qualified mechanic to have the ABS serviced or repaired or have the brakes fixed the air bag/sensors worked on or the seat belts repaired but a liferaft that is less complicated than a lawnmower has to be taken to the authorised center. They rely on everyones paranoia. :think:

     

    Just a little rant.

  15. The predictwind trackers seem to be a bit unreliable. Boats dropping in and out of signals. It seems a bit strong to threaten a 10% time penalty for a system that is less than reliable. I'm sure it's for refusal or deliberately turning it off for some advantage but still.

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