Pumbaa
-
Content Count
328 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Media Demo
Forums
Gallery
Calendar
Store
Posts posted by Pumbaa
-
-
No IT i'm talking about ignoring the 5 degrees of deviation not about holding a 5 degree course tolerance, I add up all the adjustments to the nearest degree (everything in true), heading,tidal offset, drift, var,dev and then I round the total adjusted figure up or down, normally to the nearest 5 degrees but at night I might make it to the nearest 10 degree line on the compass so it's easier to see for a compass course especially if you're having to hand steer.
-
a hand bearing compass will suffer deviation though - its just that it varies depending on too many variables to bother with a card.
Like a big chunky 1980's casio digital watch with calculator
-
If everything is in magnetic there is nothing to convert. The plotter reports Mag, the compass (all of them) report Mag, the weather I use is reported in Mag, just as easy to plot on a chart in Mag as it is true. What is there to convert, nothing.
I can't understand why you have one compass that needs correcting and one that doesn't. That's either a compass with a deviation issue which can be corrected or the compass is rooted.
No, compasses give uncorrected (deviation) magnetic, IT said his compass is less than 5 degrees deviation, for me 5 is quite a high figure to ignore. I take it all and then give a simplified course heading. I generally don't bother reducing the annual variation unless it's really bad.
A hand bearing compass doesn't have a deviation card.
-
If you're using magnetic then you still have to make an adjustment for your compass but not for a hand bearing one. I found it easier to stay and think in true, for the most part you only have to make a variation and deviation adjustment once, if you use only magnetic every action or plot requires adjustment. And for long courses using true the variation changes and is more likely to be accounted for by habit. Anyhow horses for courses as long as the fridge is cold.
-
And the reason for that was simplicity, keep everything written down as true then at the end you produce a course to steer which would be noted in the log. Now you get information from all sorts of pieces of equipment with different yaw rates and nothing reads the same at the same moment. GPS, back up GPS, the plotter, the laptop the phone the autopilot all telling you stuff. When I go somewhere I've never been that has a tide or current effect after I've done the planning I just use the plotter on my phone and the helm compass to keep me sane.
-
Everything in true, but I haven't really used a paper chart in years other than planning. I still use a hand bearing compass occasionally but for clearance bearings and such not for a running fix or triangulation.
-
Can you overtake on the left?
Dual carriageways and motorways
This scenario applies to urban dual carriageways and streets where there are two or more lanes.
There are no laws in New Zealand that prevent you from passing on the left (or 'undertaking') on a motorway. expressway or dual carriageway if the vehicle in the right-hand lane is going slower. Drivers who have driven in the UK might find this odd.
However, this doesn't mean that you are allowed to travel indefinitely in the right-hand lane on a motorway or expressway if you are not overtaking.
That's from driving test nz
However driving whilst using a phone is an $80 fine and 20 demerit points
-
1
-
-
The pvc glue is meant to be good for around 10 years plus or minus 5, the glue is very susceptible to heat but even a perfectly stored one will fall apart eventually. Aakron and Java are supplied by the same guy, he's friendly and approachable but his boats are not known for their longevity. Apparently he's now supplying a new line of welded seam boats.
This list of well built Chinese rafts is not all of them but some well known ones; Terminator, Maxxon, Quiksilver, Honwave, Takacat, some Zodiac. They all have glued seams so when the handles and fittings start to come off it would be a good time to start saving your pennies for a new boat.
-
IT made some good points about the water ballast bags underneath, blow it up in the garden or river bank and then cut the bags off with a knife. And the fittings are similar to an inflatable boat and they are easy to deflate. You've probably scored yourself a 20 year old waterproof torch (which won't work), a foot pump that looks useful but isn't, a blunt nosed knife and maybe some interesting charts and paraphernalia. All of which you'll dump in the bin eventually
. Also if you're going to go down a river in it take the bottle off as well, Two ten inch crescent wrenches will probably take the hose off at the brass valve on the raft. -
It's not that bad
6 weeks notice not 3 months
-
I apologise for the thread drift.
I only recently became aware of the travel restrictions with regard to your super payments. I can sort of understand the pension but surely the super is your own. Even a pension shouldn't have restrictions. When we go I was expecting it to be sortable when you supply a B5/U4 certified by a notary public in blue ink on red paper by the light of the moon and at least 3 planets. 3 months in advance.
-
A bit of an anthem and not the best song to play in your workshop whilst working on other peoples property.
-
Hey Pumbaa, I could do with your advice.
I have RED brand paddleboard where the foam deck has let go, it was a lemon from day 1 unfortunately but I was in denial and didn't give it back.
anyway , now the deck, the foam walk on/ decorative stuff is delaminating. A SUP guy here in akl says i can glue it back on with F2 , which would suit me , I have it.
Does that sound right to you , or do I need something more aggressive/ specialised. They are hypalon boards.
Pisses me right off of course. We bought one the first year and then bought a second of the same model the next year. The 'new' board is the lemon.
Hi John,
I'd use bostik 2405 with the desmodeur cross linking agent. Just because that's the stuff you should use for hypalon, F2 is useless. There would be an argument for not adding the desmodeur but if you don't want it to come off and you've got it, use it. Be careful of the foam I think was originally self adhesive and where it's stuck you can't use heat because it ruins the foam and if you're not careful sliding a putty knife under the edge it will tear easily.
If you get it sorted, having hypalon will last you for years. I have big doubts about some of the pvc boards I've had in for repair.
-
If you want the best inflatable brand and money's not a huge issue, get an Achilles. Japanese hypalon it will last you for decades. I've had one in the workshop that lives under a tree in a paddock and is rolled out once a year. 20 years old and it's still shiny.
-
One of the things I do is that I repair the damn things for a living, my advice would be the Zodiac Cadet it's nearly all welded but the glue they use where they use it is an environmentally friendly wall paper paste. Or the Southern Pacific's a good light weight boat but I haven't seen their new Shearwater Air floor yet which would be the only one that has a V shape to the hull. Air floors are great but if they're a glued construction once they start to let go they're on their last legs. I've got an Avon with an air floor but it's welded. Also Zodiac are doing a cheaper brand called a Zoom. These are Chinese and glued together, nothing wrong with them but they are what they are and they're not a "Zodiac". For a light weight roll up it's hard to beat the Southern Pacifics. As for a V shape in a small 2.2-2.4mt the benefits would be very small and they end up heavy if they have a ply floor. If you got a small S'Pac you'd be able to shorten your painter right up to the push pit or easily drag it on deck.
-
The yard owner gave the rebuild staff a month off! Good guy.
-
As far as I can see you need to use the "sail away scheme" the "retail export scheme" doesn't allow for car or yacht export. The berthon website has a good article on the position of the UK gov and it's new point of view regarding VAT. Since the global financial meltdown apparently they got a bit stingy and plugged a few leaky holes in the tax net.
It is years and years since I was In the UK boat business and if some one was really serious about going to the UK and buying a boat to bring back here and they listened to advice from a bunch of people from an internet forum you'd have to wonder how they accumulated the money in the first place or how they would find their way back home.
It was interesting in the berthon article how the UK government is asking for proof of paid vat on boats and accessories. I don't know how many yachts in the NZ fleet have the original receipt showing the paid GST and for the dinghy, the outboard, the new cooker, the epirb etc etc.
http://www.berthon.co.uk/berthon-blog/yacht-sales-brokerage-yachts/vat-and-all-that/
-
Yes. Tax paid in another jurisdiction is irrelevant. You are importing into NZ....
Not entirely irrelevant, you get to claim it back on departure. If you're exporting the boat from the UK you claim the VAT back and then pay the GST when you import the boat to NZ.
-
This is something I want to do. For some reason the destination appeals to me more than Fiji.
-
My vote is being tracked
-
Nice, good to see.
-
That is a beautiful boat.
"and get back into dinghy racing" - I wish I could get back into a dinghy
-
Hi, for my sins I mostly build and repair inflatables in my business, (just waiting for Bushman or Beau peep to jump on this thread). But for what it is worth this is what I think. Don't buy a boat from trademe older than 5 years. If you are going to buy secondhand buy a boat with welded seams, That mostly means Southern Pacific, Force 4 and Aquapro, Zodiac and other Zodiac derivative brands like Bombard and X-3. Aakron, Java, Maxxon, Honwave, Quicksilver and most other pvc brands are glued together and come from the same factory in Guandong province - Sun Selections. The quality is ok, but because the glue only lasts for between 5 and 10 years once the handles start to drop off the seams splitting aren't far behind and once that happens it is pretty much all over. With a welded boat as long as the fabric isn't toast from the UV damage you can glue floors back in or the tubes back on to the hull etc etc etc. I have replaced 2 transoms in Aakrons since xmas on boats about 5 years old, the ply used in China is not good, most European brands and NZ brands use marine ply and the transom can be repaired. Aquapro's with serial numbers ending 06 to 10 should be avoided as these are the years they were bringing in faulty boats, nice tubes but the fittings all fall off including the floors and hulls. They are now built in NZ by Southern Pacific but they don't do small roll ups, which leaves only Southern Pacific as the only brand that welds their boats, uses marine ply in their transom and floor boards and produce a small roll up. There are others but they would be imports and the inflatable boat industry is so incestuous they are some times hard to tell apart.
If you can find a hypalon dinghy in reasonable condition, particularly an Achilles grab it and don't let it go.
Sorry it's a long post I'm still at work at 6.30pm waiting for some glue to dry putting a new transom back in one of the Aakrons I mentioned.
. Also if you're going to go down a river in it take the bottle off as well, Two ten inch crescent wrenches will probably take the hose off at the brass valve on the raft.
Fan Worm in Opua
in MarineTalk
Posted
Stray Horse and Waikiore how do you guys "know" it is in the Te Puna and Kerikeri inlets? I don't doubt that it is, but this is the first I've heard of it being on this side.