jim s
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Posts posted by jim s
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Yeah but you are never going to get that Beer down to a few degree's here in the summer BP
If you want to do some serious cooling down in BP's sock you can pour whiskey over it - the latent heat (cooling) is much better... hmmm - wait a minute something doesn't seem right with this idea ...
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If the clutch cones have been consistently wearing their friction material away they could (must) have been frequently creeping / slipping a little...too much torque or the oil is too slippery to let them "lock" in to their neighbour. the helical spline that the cones run on would clamp up the clutch more with increased torque (up to a point) but if there is super slippery oil involved they may not . the other thing of course is the linkage adjustment but thats been double checked. ponder ponder.
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2 strokes - simple, light and reliable - especially if its a yamaha
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If ever you need to re-use an old copper washer (or gasket) i've found the best way to anneal them is to carefully heat them till they are a medium red then drop them into a fairly strong salt water - they come out immaculately clean and soft. Years ago i bought a new oil filter (very common nz brand) and found curly thread cutting swarf inside it (down stream from the filter element and so directly upstream from crankshaft bearings etc) while waiting in the check out ...of course i created a bit of a fuss and other customers started opening packets of filters and shaking swarf onto the counter too - the shop manager became quite difficult and pretty much stopped anyone going near the filters. I've always checked inside filters since then and actually they've always been clean. once bitten though...
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I reckon 90% of little outboard trouble can be traced to old fuel in the carb (much more so than in the tank) turning into a jelly-ish laquer that partially blocks the jets.It is quite difficult to clean too and i usually have to use solvent and compressed air. If you know you aren't going to be using the outboard for a while it can be a good idea to run the carb dry or drain it. This problem arrived when our fuel make-up changed back in the 90's - possibly something to do with jenny shipley - i certainly blame her whenever i find jelly inside a carburettor!
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Depending on many things including the shape, sectional variation, total mass and how contaminated it is it can be a piece of cake or super tricky welding castings... There are quite a few crusty old welders around that would give the little honda a good shot i reckon.New Plymouth should have a good quota of them
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Hmmm I wonder if the last photo might have anything to do with it...was it running well (not overheating) last time you used it ? If so and then its been frozen its possible that the water jacket may of been full still and ruptured the casting as it froze . a bit of a long shot but weird stuff happens sometimes. welding it is a possibility if another block is expensive.
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I like the idea of blasting Co2 via a vent ...aircraft and some industrial equipment have a similar concept. I've had to put out fires on a few occasions and i've been lucky to have had enough extinguisher(s) to hand - if you need one you don't care what it costs...this thread has reminded me to upsize the one onboard.
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Hence my question about starting. All the other possible causes of Fuel getting into the oil would result in hard starting and poor running and likely a lot of smoke. If the engine starts well and runs well, it kind of rules those possibles out. And it takes some time to raise the level as well. Shane has said it goes up a lot in a short period.
i've seen belt driven injector pumps leaking big time out the shaft seal all the while the engine starts and runs beautifully - i'm not familiar with shane's type of engine but it appears to have a gear (or chain) driven pump in which case if it had a faulty shaft seal it would leak into the engine oil...Next time i,m in Picton i'll go visit him and see if i can help.
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Its a bit left field, but i've had a diesel engine with a bent exhaust valve push rod that steadily (albeit slowly) had the oil level go up and smell like diesel...
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Epic storytelling! If ever you lose your day job i reckon you'd do ok in entertainment!!
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hmmm - it could be the springs on our bracket have lost some tension ...two of them are almost new though.
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Yes we are talking the same thing - we have a 9.9 yamaha 4 stroke on our t.s. .the weight of it overpowers the springs and it is a real backbreaker leaning over the transom trying to lift it.lowering it isn't much easier because it wants to take off...actually lifting it off / putting it on the bracket isn't too bad because i can give it a decent bear hug...
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we have the stainless double arm type with extra springs and with a 4 stroke 9.9 its near impossible to lift .the 4 strokes are so heavy compared to the two strokes of course.I've set up a 4:1 pulley system to make lifting pretty easy now and lowering is nicely controlled too. if you had a twenty something kg motor i expect you would be able to balance it nicely with the springs
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holy shite - she's getting wild now...steel n concrete house moving around a fair bit .we're about 10k inland from ohope
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a good read alright - Tough guys back then ...
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a couple of years ago in the outer pelorus sound it went from idyllic to 35 kn + in about 2 minutes - we were on our moderately tender 20 foot trailer sailer and i was surprised at how rough the sea got and so quickly . There was shelter not far away and the mercury earn't its keep with alternately the prop coming out then the cowling going 90% under. its a longshaft too. It didn't put off my lady from sailing thankfully.
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longshaft or extra-long has helped us a lot in those situations
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Yes that would work too although if it ran well with the choke say half closed you might be getting only two ponypower - so long as that didn't affect your judgement. certainly you would hear the little engine improve or not and it would help diagnose it.
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An easy way to find out is to get it to the point of hesitation and turn off the fuel - if it goes better just before it runs out of gas then it was too rich but if it just gets worse then probably it was too lean. you need to close the throttle and turn the fuel back on fairly swiftly if it indicates too lean as we don't want to badger a lean two stroke... there are other possibilities but turning of the fuel will narrow the field down a lot
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I guess this is one for Wheels... I'm just about finished a major overhaul of the centre board for our trailer sailer and the new lifting gear for the board has seven pulleys in total within the sheave assy. All the sheaves have tufnol bushes and i'm keen to reduce friction as much as i can - any recomendations for a lube? I understand they can run ok dry or in water but fiddling with the spare sheave in the workshop shows normal oil makes a huge difference...thanks
Hose clips
in TechTalk
Posted
Ouch!! Sharp edges and snags have no place in an engine bay... unfortunately a lot parts these days have sharp edges including things like radiator caps, pre-built brackets ,hose clamps and just about anything made in china ... but anyway if the clamp is sized correctly the tail wont be too long and i use long nose pliers to slightly bend the last 15mm or so inwards a bit so the tail rests against the clamp with no snag waiting for a soft bit of human