rossd
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Posts posted by rossd
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Took me a while to master the starting.
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I have a rather old Avon. Its as good as. Had a couple of patches when i got it but seems a thick strong fabric. Rowlocks no problem . Got a seagull for it this year , reliable? Time will tell. Just oars up till now, had a couple of probably dodgy catches of the mother ship on a fast tide. Did at times carry a little lie flat anchor to deploy if the boat missed , but never required for that purpose.
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Yes replacing a post fuse wouldn’t be that simple or quick , getting the box cover off Is a bit of a mission in itself, mind you if the fuse is blown there’s bigger problems elsewhere! How would a magnetic breaker work if not heat?
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Beccara. Would go that that way if redoing the whole area but trying to find something simple. Fat chance!
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Yeah i used one of them only with glass 20 amp fuse on my camper fridge rewire. used 8 gauge/ 6.5mm2 wire which fitted them perfectly.
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Big difference $4.50 to $40 plus a post fitting. Well thats yachting Thanks for the info.
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I have been concerned for some time that my battery feeds have no fuses. Some threads on here went into this in some detail .Island Time especially been quite blunt about it! I found it not that simple to retro fit a fuse as finding a place to mount them and then measuring up for remaking the HT leads at an auto electrician , . They are fat welding cables. While at Jaycar today I found these;
https://www.jaycar.co.nz/battery-terminal-fuse-200a/p/SF4184
Problem is I couldnt figure out how they worked and neither could the 2 guys who worked there!
It appeared to need an insulated washer under the bolt head thats not supplied.
So, once I get that sorted is this a way to go? I think there biggest is 200 amp which should do starting a Yanmar YSE12?
My 12 volt bible is a book called Caravan and Motorhome electrics by Collyn Rivers who says fuses shouldnt be in battery boxs. I guess thats because if a fuse blows it might blow up the battery box! I think I will take that risk.
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That’s actually a good thought. Mounted up in a box . Just thinking the drill speed probably to slow.
What tool would be high speed?
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20 nm NW of Cape Brett is the Cavilli's, but 20 nm due north is the 500 m contour. I wouldn't be surprised if the sea state around there 'coming onto soundings' was nasty with this easterly and deep low pushing in.
Sounds like a terrible ordeal.
Dont know much about this sort of detail but are you suggesting at 500 metres deep the bottom is still effecting the sea state? If that is the case at what depth does it have no effect? or I guess that depends on a whole heap of factors.
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I guess there are a few hazards in the ocean but to have your yacht sunk by a ships mooring rope must be pretty rare
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Yes that Tahitian navigator had been pretty much ignored or at least his role downplayed in the history of Cooks exploration in these parts.
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Neil C . How simple, I could have thought of that!
Matte . Interesting about the anode. Hopefully the mussels will get spun off! Yes the gloss is going.
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In business at Maramarua 2 weeks to custom make prop
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Bit the bullet and got a new one. Surprised they said a geared one is no more efficient than floppy so floppy it is. What’s the E 19 mean? Also with prop speed it says sand 80 grit so does that mean sand of that nice polished surface?. Do you propspeed the shaft anode?
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What’s wrong with the bow lights ? Are they to low?
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Why I thought it had been glassed was reading reports at the time and one from an “expert” in the US who knew the yacht said in his opinion the reason it disappeared was because it had been thin glassed. Someone above said they looked at the hull and could see the plank outlines, that doesn’t necessarily mean it wasn’t glassed as planks would show through glass anyway especially after a few years.
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The problem with the Nina was not the fact it was carvel but that it had been glassed over. The glass cannot handle all the movement going on.
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3 blades would be cool. Unfortunately 380 or 15 inch will be to big I already have a clearance problem with rudder on full lock.
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Found this listing but wrong hand also boss suspect
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Razz88. Sail drive quite different. A spline rather than taper.
Wheels. The blades are as sloppy as. It would need a new pin, rebushed and machined blades etc. could be done but also times a problem as no facilities here other than putting down on the boat ramp between tides. I think the shaft, stern tube and gland are ok. It’s the oddball setup where the shafts off the centre line off the boat and has a seperate support strut , which is what took a beating.
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For the last little while only 1 blade has been coming out and have had to blip the throttle to get the other one out. But few days ago it wouldn’t come out even after a couple of rev sessions. In the end stuck it in reverse and then forward and all ok. I think the vibration did some damage to the shaft strut as leaking a bit now. The lesson as always is lack of proactive maintenance will always come back to bite you on the bum. Need another prop, geared folding 2 blade should do the trick. Yanmah 25mm shaft. Existing is 13.5x9 LH , handbook says 13x8.5 and previous paperwork mentions 14x8 so some wriggle room. Anyone got anything or know likely prospects? Thanks
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Good on them. Have there own company to make it as well, and local. Rare way of operation these days.
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Good story
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Shows how much I know about the latest yachts I didn’t know twin tillers were a thing. Is this somehow preferred over wheels?
Kiwi rescued after 2 days adrift in Dinghy in the Med
in MarineTalk
Posted
By starting I mean one pull as winding the rope around again is unprofessional! How many lawnmowers start in one go?