rossd
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Posts posted by rossd
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That is a generous offer from Harrytom, if I were you Shane I would take up his advice and offer.
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In my view 1kg Dry powders are to piddly. If you miss the seat of the fire in the 1st 2 or 3 seconds you are done for. 2kg would be a better minimum. Cat one says 5 kg in total. Also wheels Foam is totally different to Foam Spray which is what KM is talking about I would think. Foam Spray comes out as water spray that has an AFFF additive to apply a film. A foam extinguisher just applies foam and Cat one says 9 litres which is physically far to big for most boats
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When Firewatch first started in NZ they only sold Foam Spray which had met UK requirements for use on electrical as well. Gave in to industry pressure and only really sell them on request now and are a lot dearer. Its what I have for the boat and wouldnt have powder. Would have CO2 but only in a sealed engine room and auto or remotely operated.
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Agree if you have a full BCF, keep it and dont let anyone say you cannot have it.
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Thames marina is pretty good at at getting boats out with a tractor and an assortment of privately owned haulout trailers,(not road going) once you are on the hard you could then get the mast down and if you can jack up a road trailer, hyab cranes are in the yard sometimes who would soon plonk it on a trailer. Will still cost a bit.
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This guy has been making and selling chutes and drogues on trade me for years .I have never brought anything (other than a bosuns chair) and not sure of quality or anything but they look the gears. Ron from Coromandel . Selling under the name Threecheers.
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He also said that plane could have come from the Islands or Aussie. but would have to refuel before heading home. So where would he land at that time of night. and refuel without border control getting excited or do they only get excited with incoming yachts not planes?
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They were not sideways?
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Took these photos on the Ghats in Varanasi India. The shed in background was used as a weight after soaking planks one end was stuck undereath and other end bent up onto a strut and left overnight to bend. Impressive lack of tools.
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I build a Joansa a few years back now, only draws 90mm , still havent build oars , my advice now is to build the oars first ! Clipper that looks like a Welsford "Roofrack" I am building one as in theory it will fit the foredeck. I am making the short light model 1850 long 4.5mm thick ply. I have made the top panels over height so I can scribe the foredeck shape on it when upsidedown so it can be tied down snug. The gunnel might look a bit odd in the water but who cares. Weather there is in reality room for it practically on the foredeck time will tell.
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Further to your tri colour lights Isand Time. Whats this strobe light business about, what is its purpose? , is this some kind of overseas regulation as not a requirement here and no doubt increases the price. I take it you dont have a tri colour/anchor without the strobe? I am keen on your lights and I saw somewhere you have some wiring that would do the job here.
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John B ,so you mean there is a harder cover on the top 11 metres and a softer one on the part that is handled . But the entire line is still 10 mm diam.
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That prestretched polyester might be a cheap way to go
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I thought replacing my main halyard and pensioning the old one to the main sheet would be a simple and cheap operation, sadly mistaken. Like $200! I measured my ancient halyards and they are 13 mm, I looked up Donaghies line size chart and main halyard for 26 to 33 foot yacht is 8 to 10mm .. 8mm!! my stiff old fingers would hardly get enough grip on that to pull a skin off a rice pudding especially after handling a line the size of a small eel. And this is the problem , between strength and some thing nice to get hold of.To get some thing without stretch in 12mm besides costing a fortune can take 10 tonnes!! From a load bases I think 6mm would do it if not 4mm. So wouldnt the logical thing be to go back to the old type system and splice some stretchy nice fat cheap 12mm to some 6mm fancy stuff and have the best of both worlds.
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When they started, the Hamilton company Seal Imports used to have a cool big billboard of a seal above there entrance. When they moved to a typically boring new building they had lost their sense of humor and the sign didnt come with them.
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Ch 16 during day and its not that annoying not like coastguard channels. As someone said ext speaker to cockpit bulkhead would be good. Off at bedtime as sure to get woken up with something not important, is it Maritime NZ that notifies a forecast at 1 am!
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I timed that and from go to stop was 10 seconds. So maybe your whole life or definitely your whole boating life is changed forever in those 10 seconds. Is that whats meant by living on the edge? No worse then a car accident i suppose.
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Yes decided to give the pumps a clean as probably havent been done for years if truth be known.Part B pump cleaned up nice in warm water and soap. The resin pump didnt really and is still not quite right. I didnt have any epoxy thinner or whatever its called. Am antifouling the yacht and have decided to use coppercoat with 2 coats of epoxy going on first. I was freaking out about doing the resin with the possibility of runs all over the show but it actually went OK. I used a 110mm roller and 206 part B . Didnt use as much resin as I thought, about 20 pumps for one coat. The problem now is how the hell do I know where i have been with 2nd coat? The hulls pretty low to the ground so hard to see. Is there some tint or something to use? Thanks for you tech posts wheels.
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Sometimes reading instructions is helpful. On the hardener it says 5 to 1 either volume or weight.
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I am sick of my measuring pumps burping especially when only used now and then so was going to make a weight balance but then read this: When epoxy mixing ratios are given, they are for volume, not weight. Part A and Part B do not weigh the same therefore the ratio changes if you want to mix by weight. And to further complicate the issue, the weight ratio changes by epoxy manufacturer. Mine worked out to be 1.68:1 for the 2:1 epoxy I used. You could use a kitchen scale and weigh equal amounts of your Part A and Part B to determine the weight ratio or email the manufacturer and ask for the data. To build the balance, I took a piece of scrap ply 18" x 4" and drilled a cup size hole in each end. I put 100 pennies in one cup and 168 pennies in the other. Then I found the balance point and routed a 'v' groove across the board for the fulcrum. I had less than 3 oz resin left over after mixing 3 gallons of epoxy in batches as small as 2 oz. I then got fancy and added a microswitch and light that indicates when to stop adding hardener.
This involves to much thinking for my liking. Has anyone done this and what is the distance to each end from the fulcrum?
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Yes I understood they used non payment to not send paperwork which is fair enough I guess unless the account is in dispute in which case they have you over a barrel.
However I paid my account on 9th Sep.
If they have gone bust that may be a problem, local Coastguard are waiting for paperwork as well and usual excuse is bossman Keith is in Fiji working and unavailable.
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What experience have people had with Quayside Marine? We had our moorings redone by them in Raglan and certified at the same time by a third party whos name I cannot recall at the moment.(was it Hauraki ...........?) After months we have not got paper work and specifications which in my case is getting urgent as have had to get an extension of time on resource consent renewal. This despite follow up e mails etc.
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Dont get Knot Me started on Rocna!!!! My excuse is I have a NZ made one. With the chain making machine , no wonder there are so many unemployed in the world!
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Reminds me of the time I lost a boat hook over the side and took about 5 goes to keep it in sight and retrieve it by myself. At least was good practice and showed me how something that looks simple can in reality be so hard.
Fire Extinguisher Advice
in MarineTalk
Posted
That chart Beccara posted needs to be viewed with a bit of flexibility. It is for the ideal situation in there view, like a fish and chip shop may have a wet chemical. But powder would be OK as well and would knock it down quick but as noted can re ignite . Foam spray would put it out a bit slower but not likely to reignite. Foam spray is not wet chemical,foam spray is not even in that chart. As for electrical rating and foam spray, rather a long story. When Firewatch set up here about 27 years ago the English owner brought in UK Thorn Foam Spray extinguishers. These were certified under UK standards as well as ISO for use on fires around live electrical equipment. The test they passed was 25000 volts AC at a distance of one metre. The reason they can do this is they have a small rotating disk in the nozzle that atomisers the stream. Foam spray was not in the NZ Standard and infact probably still isnt and firewatch set about getting it included as well as recognizing the UK electrical test. It never happened. Standards are a bit of a strange thing in that they are basically written by the big players in the relevant industry. Ones like Wormald at the time had a lot of power and didnt want this foam spray in the standard especially with a electrical rating and so blocked it. They had been taught since babies that water based extinguishers are no good on electrical. Firewatch gave up on the battle and subsequent owners didnt bother with it and went on to selling mainly dry powder. Because Foam spray is not in the standard it doesn't find its way into recommendations which is why it is not in that chart above or even mentioned in YNZ Saftey regs. However i am sure a cat one inspecter would pass them especially if you have around 6 litres total, no doubt KM will find out in due course. Just a thought I am not saying all foam spray brands and models sold here have an electrical rating you would have to check.