rossd
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Posts posted by rossd
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I think that sub keel would be kauri like the rest of the boat. Built 1974, I don't think it would be tanalised. Getting molten lead in there to a vertical finish would be a mission, bit more than making a sinker.
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Well the holes quite big but the photos are huge! Thinking about this that keel has had a big whack in the past as there are repairs inside at the aft keel end so this probably opened things up at the forward end both between lead and dead wood (or whatever its called) and the laminate. This probably let water into contact with the bolt (although has always been dry inside) and started that galvanic action Wheels. Think I will put on an anode cannot do any harm? How do you work out what size? 400 kg each keel from memory.
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Photos didnt come up. Second attemp
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No, not when I brought it 7 years ago or since
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I am not to sure how to proceed here. I can understand damage history to the leading edge after 40 years but the hole is a bit of a mystery to me. Its about 20mm deep at deepest and the bronze keel bolt is exposed the lead is sort of powdery but I have got it mostly back to solid lead apart from one small hole going down. I was going to epoxy it up but not sure how to prepare the lead for epoxy. Also what has caused this and will it happen again? I was thinking of casting flaw or electrolysis.
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As they said there would be a lot less room in there with 4 or 5 cameraman as well !
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Probably not many mostly racing craft. But I do remember that one coming back from the Islands a year or two ago who tried to sail on without a rudder for a day or three and gave up so even a half effective rudder might have done it.
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Never really understood the theory of wind vane steering but am just now reading a book "Wind-Vane Self Steering" and its by a NZer as well Bill Belcher. although 20 years old now. The idea Digger20 of the self steering rudder to be of use in an emergency is probably an idea as no amount of electronics is any good without a rudder as some abandoned yachts have shown. In theory Cat 1 should have a emergency rudder but seems like rule not actually applied... Another interesting thing is why Jessica Watson had wind vane steering, a pretty good one like $8000 .
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One thing I have never figured out with multiple VHf s attached to one motherships call sign is the handhelds could become spread out all over the show. One could be on the yacht at anchor. one in the pub ashore one on a nearby hill lookout so when the person in the yachts dinghy in the next bay round gets flipped into the water and calls the coast guard and gives the yachts callsign can things not get a little confusing. If they are not to use the yachts call sign what are they to use.
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Would love to cruise up to Islands in the old tub but I dont think its going to happen Although my son was all charged up the other day , Dad, lets put it in the water and sail to the Whitsundays (he has a mate working there) If only it was that easy, So who knows>
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There was someone on here, i cannot remember his name, working in Vanuatu that used to post a lot but havent seen him since the cyclone. Are you there or gone to ground?
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Someone said on here a while ago which I thought was spot on. Dont second guess . Sail it for a season and it will all become crystal clear.
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Up to Insurers? I think the owners might want their boat back!
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Gee Old Girl. One thing about crew.org.nz there is always the potential for a good story!
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What!!??
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You are at a cross road here! Do you do what will amount to a botch up job or remove the whole engine for a proper recondition? With a few rags in the right place you could hone the bore in place with a risk of getting grit where you don't want it. It probably will not get rid of the score though and more important will need to get rid of any lip in bore above top ring.
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Got the injector out finally with a plate puller as L4 recommended. The pre chambers and spacers are still stuck so might just leave them as is. I see now they are just drifted from the bottom but don't want to break anything. Looked up that link re penetrating oil, pasted below. Might just make up a home brew.
A study done by Machinist's Workshop magazine in their April 2007 issue looked at different penetrating oils to see which one did the best job of removing a rusted bolt by measuring the pounds of torque required to loosen the bolt once treated.
If the study was scientifically accurate, it turns out a home brew works best!
Here's the summary of the test results:
Penetrating oil ..... Average load
None ...................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds
The Automatic Transmission fluid (ATF)-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. The home brew is Highly Flammable---Use Caution !!!
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For all these motors short comings I have sort of got attached to them. It has been surprisingly reliable and never let me down apart from battery once and big diesel bug problem once which is hardly the motors fault. They do have a reputation as having the loudest diesel knock of any diesel made! Being down below when motoring can only be described as unpleasant. The slow revs thump is probably its best feature! The fuel pump is impressive that it works at all, I understand there is a needle that wears and also the governor linkage is a bit delicate. As a 35 year old boat I have decided not to upgrade a lot of original equipment because whats the point, its never going to be a light or fast boat so am more in restoring mode. Had to redo the sterntube deadwood and after being tempted by a dripless system decided to stick with the old gland. Saving a $1000 had something to do with it! Original winches also staying. Also atempted to get the old Wasp propeller driven log going but to far gone unfortunately. Have gone electronic there.
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Yes there are 4 different sized holes in it so it would have to be aligned properly. I don't want to take it out IT but L4s suggestion of drifting the stuck injector from the bottom cannot be done with it there. I think a slide hammer with correct thread to screw into injector base is the only way to extract it.
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I have an idea there is a bit more experience there than they are letting on.
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What looks like a second liferaft is on deck!
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Thanks L4. Might invest in a socket and 3/4 extension. Have made pullers like that before, might have something lying around to do the job. Quite good to use big artillery now and again, sort of satisfying! The head is not so simple though, it has what looks like some kind of diffuser covering the pre chamber, I don't want to take that out or damage it as would be a bit of a disaster if it fell out later while underway. Maybe they all don't all have them or have been removed in the past. Not sure what its purpose is?
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I acquired this motor for parts but have been thinking I might strip it and see whats required for rebuilding. My motor has to clag out sooner or later and to have one in the shed to plonk in would be cool. Has anyone worked on these and got any special tools they don't want or can lend. Need a 54mm socket for flywheel and slide hammer as injector is stuck in the head. The heads off the good motor in the boat. If anyone is taking parts to the scrappy let me know as may be interested.
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Or even should I say, 26feet
raw water pump
in TechTalk
Posted
I replaced mine with a new Jabsco with same impeller size but different mounting which proved more of a problem than I first thought. In the end got a Johnson kit from Auss with new shaft and seal (cannot remember if it had a new end plate or not) and put the old one back on. If I ever have the motor in the workshop will make up proper mounting for the jabsco and put it on. At least they are current models and a bit more reasonable for parts.