Farrari
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Posts posted by Farrari
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1.5 COMPLIANCE
This Standard applies to new installations, alterations and extensions commenced after its publication date or the date of adoption by the relevant
Technical Regulator. It does not apply retrospectively to existing installations, but any repairs or modifications to existing installations shall comply with the requirements of this Standard.The standard doesn't appear to apply retrospectively.
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My 14 year old son who is, already 6 ft tall is ready to move out of his P class . He is a bean pole presently weighing sround 53 kg. He is likely to be 6'2" or more by summer.
Question is do we go Starling next or just progress to a Laser. I would prefer to not be buying a boat now then another next season.
Anyone have a suggestion as to best way to progress ?
My only other comment would be to let your son sail what he is interested in sailing. That is likely to be the same boat type as his mates are planning on sailing. Don't look too far in advance as there seems to be a natural drop off point of about 16 years old where the kids start finding things other than sailing to interest them.
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From memory the optimum weight for a Starling is 65Kg with minimum entry weight considered as 55kg. When my daughter was sailing there were a few trying to sail at 50kg but they really struggled in the heavier conditions. Having said that the girl that was previously sailing my daughters boat was just over 50kg and had developed techniques to cope and was very competitive. They boys she was sailing against really started to become noncompetitive at around 70-75 kg depending on their skill level.
I don't know much about the Lasers other than there are three rig sizes - 4.7, radial and full. A quick google search shows the weight ranges for each as
Laser 4.7 - 35 - 55kg
Laser radial - 55 - 70kg
Laser (full rig) - 60kg +
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Is there such a thing as a gas WOF? Last time I went through the process of getting Cat 3 I had a gas fitter to check my boats gas installation. He said he could only certify a new install and there was no mechanism in the regulations to certify or warrant existing installs.
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I'm looking for one more crew to join us for the BBYC winter series on my Farr 1020. I'd prefer someone with experience but am open to consider a beginner who is passionate and wants to learn. There is going to be some good racing this year with early indications that we will have sufficient 1020's for our own start in open division.
The boat is moored at Halfmoon Bay Marina, Auckland with a departure time of 12:00 o'clock; race start 1pm. First race is 8th May (yes Mothers day!) and we race every second Sunday from there.
PM me or call/txt on 027 2888649 if you are interested.
Steve
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We are hoping to add at least two more Farr 1020s to the cruising division.
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We did have the chart plotter freak out on us at barrier this year for a few minutes, never happened before and not since. Don't know what it was , wasn't loss of signal , just a shift in position. I assume some sort of atmospheric issue( but I haven't heard of it happening to anyone else)
I had the same thing with my Garmin handheld GPS out at Barrier last year. We were comfortably anchored up and the GPS showed me anchored ashore about 50 metres away!
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You could try these guys
http://brookhouseonline.com/index.htm
I haven't used them nor do I know how economic they are but they are Auckland based. The have a SeaTalk1 to NMEA0183 converter.
Brookhouse email addresses
General: brookhouse@brookhouseonline.com
Sales: sales@brookhouseonline.com
Support: support@brookhouseonline.com
Postal address
Brookhouse
P.O. Box 38-308
Howick
Manukau 2145
New ZealandPhysical address
Brookhouse
208 Sandspit Road
(Sandspit Park)
Shelly Park, Howick
Manukau 2014
New Zealand -
Actually that is a good point. In my case the tablet has GPS with assisted GPS (A-GPS) meaning that it can use WiFi to locate its position faster and more accurately than with GPS alone. It takes time to lock onto the GPS and in many internal buildings or where there are lots of external structures there can be GPS signal reflections that lead to inaccuracies. A-GPS is a useful tool to help solve this. There are reports that some devices (not mine) must have a broadband connection (WiFi or 3G/4G) in order for their internal GPS derived location to function although I suspect this is more how the software is written because tracking you by location is a revenue generating tool.
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Using cell towers for an approximate location fix (instead of GPS) requires the phone to triangulate based on the received signal strength from multiple cell towers. My tablet doesn't have a cellular radio that can communicate with the cell towers so is completely deaf in that sense. I am always out in the great blue yonder outside cell coverage as far as it is concerned. The tablet could approximate location based on WiFi but I have disabled WiFi and confirmed location by GPS still works.
Steve
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See this is where all the conflicting information comes in. I was told that wifi only tablets gets assisted GPS , which is pinging off cell towers.
So if you're out to sea it doesn't work. That info came from various sources , anectdotal, a bit here , some other forums and talking to cruisers.
How far out Farrari?
Can you go right away out to sea and still get a full gps position. If its changed we needs to know.( insert smile face here)
My tablet is a WiFi only (no cellular) Samsung Note 10.1 2014 Edition and as IT says capabilities are likely to be model specific. I can use the Maps application for navigation with WiFi disabled provided I have downloaded and cached the maps beforehand. It does ask if it can use WiFi and cellular to improve location accuracy but I always decline.
Specs are listed as
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My Samsung tablet is a WiFi only model and it gets GPS perfectly fine with or without WiFi coverage. It has an inbuilt GPS receiver although I'm not sure I'd trust it for close quarters navigation.
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I have a Kiwiprop, a Volvo 120S sail drive and have been following the Kiwiprop instructions to leave the gearbox in ahead position while sailing. I tried reverse for a while but it seem to lock there and couldn't be freed manually without starting the motor while still in gear. It is an interesting point that Kiwiprops make that the manufacturer recommendations don't take into account the propeller type.
http://www.kiwiprops.co.nz/cms/index.php/resources-general/sailing-in-gear
Sailing in gearAuto rotation can be initiated by many things from fouling of the blades - barnacles etc to picking up a piece of seaweed on a blade.
It is for that reason we recommend leaving the unit in forward once feathered to prevent any further rotation.
Reverse should always be avoided because if the unit - or any type of prop - fixed / feathering / auto prop were to engage and slowly rotate the motor over as compression was lost in each cylinder in turn it is possible for the engine to suck back seawater from the exhaust lock … enough said.
They then go on to say how crap the Volvo 120S units are due to the cone type clutch .... great!
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Some details here. They are a big volume boat for their size.
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Adding to what everyone else is saying, I would also consider the possibility that you have multiple causes (one motoring and one sailing). As a random thought do you turn off the ingress and egress thru hull fitting taps for the toilet when you are sailing? In some boats the toilet bowl is lower than the waterline and you can get a siphon effect that lets water in (I am assuming you have a standard salt water toilet here). There should be a loop that is higher than the max waterline and a siphon valve but at high heel angles the loop can still be lower than the waterline and let water in. Some older boats don't have a siphon valve fitted that makes this worse.
Just a thought ....
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Does it make this sound when it's not in gear? My saildrive made screeching noises and resulted in loss of power when the SD rear shaft seal started to fail. Water was found in the SD oil (Oil was a white murky colour when you pulled the SD dipstick out).
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I'd question how well a DVSR would work in this scenario. The O/B alternator would be the only source to charge the start battery and the start battery is quite small relative to the house.
Take this scenario
Full start battery, depleted house battery - no OB running: The VSR will bridge the two batteries as the start has reached the VSR threshold. The two batteries will try an equalise meaning that current is going to flow from the start to the house thereby draining the start battery. The VSR will release the bridged connection once the disconnect voltage threshold is reached leaving a slightly charged house and more depleted start battery. Unless the OB is restarted the start battery will stay depleted. The house battery will continue to be charged by the solar.
You may also find that the alternator on the OB will be overloaded when the two batteries are initially bridged as it will be trying to charge the house. Unless the alternator is rated for continuous use you may also experience premature failure.
Personally I would leave the OB alt to charge the start only and use the solar only to charge the house. You may need to charge the house battery from 230V prior to going out but a 100W solar panel is going to provide a reasonable charge in anything but poor light conditions. The 100W semi-flexiable panel that Matt put me onto was still putting out power in what I would consider low light conditions. I have had no need to run the diesel to charge the house battery at all so far this summer (I do have a compressor driven fridge/freezer tho so need to run the motor for this).
My 2c worth.
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I thought about this but when i did the math it didn't looks so bad.
At 0.5 nautical miles the angle different from a boat behind is 1.4 deg going from 0.1deg to 1.5deg, This does increase up close at 0.1 miles from 0.6deg to 7.6deg but they should have done something by then if they have seen you from 0.5mile mark
I would have also thought there would also be little difference approaching from astern between a yacht under power using an all round white light and a yacht under sail using a tri-light. Having said that I would still prefer the lower stern light/steaming light/port starboard lights in the harbour as its easier for others to understand.
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As a test I'd suggest temporarily disconnecting the sun bug catcher as the smartcharger may be getting confused with the second power source. I only run one at a time on my boat.
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The V2/v3 manual I found showed solid red error indicated the float rate is set higher that absorbtion rate. There were two test points and a reference ground that you can use a multimeter to check. I'd guess either a faulty unit or maybe a dirty adjustable pot. If the latter you maybe able to clear it with a couple of turns on the pot. The voltage should change on the respective test point. Make sure you set it back to manufacturers specifications.
Sorry I'm operating from my phone out on the boat otherwise I'd include the URL references and pictures.
Steve
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Ray
As Scott mentioned, there are two entrances to the Tamaki Estuary to get to Half Moon Bay; one via Musick Point and the other via West Tamaki Heads. The area is well charted but I'd recommend you sticking to one of the two channels for deepest water. Musick Point has a CD of 1.2m at the lowest point and West Tamaki Heads has a CD of 1.8m so you will need to watch the tides if you draw 2.4m. Make sure you follow the channel markers as the channel does take a dog leg around a large sandspit that many a boat has parked up on trying to take the direct line of sight route.
There are two marina's (Half Moon Bay and BBYC) with separate entrances; HMB is the first entrance and BBYC is the second. You will need to follow the estuary down past little Bucklands Beach and past the marina hardstand area. Both marina's have a jetty with public access although it's not immediately obvious how to access the HMB fuel jetty from the roadside (see below). The BBYC jetty is theoretically meant to for club members but I don't think short term use will cause any issues. It also has limited turning space that is compounded if there are already other boats in there using the space.
To use the HMB fuel jetty take the first marina access and take a hard left turn and you will see the jetty. There is space to tie up if you are not taking on fuel or water a little bit further down if not already occupied. Public access is via a gate down by Bryant Marine but involves walking through the hardstand area. Take a left after the gate entrance and follow the pathway to the marina office, turn right and walk in front of the travel lift area pass the little sheds and turn left. You will see the jetty entrance. I must admit I haven't been down this jetty for a couple of years but last time I was there it wasn't gated.
To use the BBYC marina take the second entrance and turn hard right. This jetty is where the ferries tie up on the other side. There is plenty of water depth in both marinas.
There is a reasonable amount of public parking although it fills up fast this time of year.
Steve
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I watched Grant from Allvo marine replace my anode on my 120S the other day. Some of the observations I made
- He was meticulous about cleaning the surfaces where the anode butts up to the saildrive and used a cleaner that didn't leave a residue
- He used a lead based grease on the mounting bolts
- He went through a process of tightening the bolts, tapping them with a mallet and re-tightening three times over
- He used a punch on the anode where it butted up against the bolts to reduce the chance of them coming undone
I have had a number of people mention to use the genuine parts because some of the third party products don't last as long. There also seemed to be a couple of different anode part numbers that needed to be matched with the saildrive. Using the model 120S wasn't enough to determine what anode to use in my case.
My observation was that it didn't take that long to do and while I could easily do it myself, it didn't cost that much to get a professional to do it for me and I had the confidence of a job well done.
EDIT: Mine was a single piece anode that required removal of the prop.
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Very nice; now you are giving me serious boat envy.
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Jon thats all good to read , I'll have a look at some other 1020s and see what / how they have addressed the Holding Tank issues. As you say, maybe judicious use of bowl may be a way around the requirements. However l would like to have one fitted and electric toilet also
I have a manual toilet, a 60L holding tank fitted under the starboard V berth bunk, a Y valve for direct discharge out to sea and an electric macerator pump to empty the holding tank.
You a more than welcome to come and have a look if you are out HMB way or drop by if you see us out on the water. I chose the manual toilet because there is less to go wrong and if it does I can normally fix it out on the water with the spares I carry.
Next time I think I would look closer at either a Raritan system (Purasan or Electroscan) or possibly one of Matt's Airheads.
Steve
Laser or Starling ?
in MarineTalk
Posted
A mate of mine is considering selling his daughters Starling. It's an ex Wellington boat from the late 70's that was completely stripped down and rebuilt. It's been put through the jig and has the certificate to compete in the nationals. PM me if you are interested and I'll pass on his contact details.
Steve