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cj!

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Posts posted by cj!

  1. Pity NZ doesn't copy Australia on this, a one-off fee of $1,544 valid until a change of ownership and it's a register of title as well plus no Cat 1. They also offer a temporary pass at $333 one-way, transfer of ownership is $444 and a replacement certificate is $222. Doesn't make NZ quite so attractive.

     

    Anyone know what a tonnage survey would cost in NZ?

  2. I know it is easy enough to register a yacht offshore but looking at the Ship Registration Act 1992 I was wondering what is the situation when a New Zealand citizen or resident owns a foreign registered yacht and wishes to depart New Zealand waters on it?

     

     

    Registration.png

    Registration_2.png

  3. If it's still a nice tight fit it should be fine to use it for a pattern. You'll want to use the same stitch lines too. Use some tailor's chalk or pins along the stitch lines as a guide to follow.

  4. IT, I think it was your wording of putting a 10kg load on top of the mast being equal to 150kg on the deck, as an additional 10kg load bearing down is still only 10kg, rather than referring to it as the increased leverage as the boat heels that caused my reply. I wonder how much of a buffer designers allow for considering all of the additional things cruisers add all over their boats? 

  5. Just thought I'd add these links to a two part series 'The Science of Hybrid Propulsion' by Nigel Calder comparing series and parallel hybrid propulsion options with diesel and the efficiency crossover points. With the continuing drop in LiFePO4 pricing, the potential is starting to look a little better as that should bring the crossover point up a bit again, especially if you're not chasing high cruising speeds.

     

    https://www.passagemaker.com/technical/hybrid-science-part-1

     

    https://www.passagemaker.com/technical/the-science-of-hybrid-propulsion-part-2

    • Upvote 1
  6. I agree that the more panel capacity that can be fitted the better is always going to be a good starting point then it's how can it's output be maximised and how can power usage be minimised. Shadowing of the panels is an unavoidable issue but some items could be masthead mounted to reduce the effect.

    windgen mast mounted 1.JPG

    windgen mast mounted 2.jpg

    windgen mast mounted.JPG

  7. In the electric propulsion thread it was suggested that collecting rainwater could be a worthwhile option to running a watermaker thus saving power. So I've done a little searching for ideas and this is what I've come across but I'd be keen to see what else others suggest. 

     

     

    raincatcher awning_drain.JPG

    rainwater_1_.jpg

    rainwater_catcher 1.jpg

    rainwater_catcher2.jpg

    Rainwater_harvesting_2.png

  8. I also came across this adjustable solar panel that has a heat exchanger behind to provide hot water while also cooling the panel thereby increasing its efficiency which is useful as a replacement for the hot water generated by IC engines.

     

     

    Back of Panel - Black Heat Exchanger - Insulation and Tubing.jpg

    Solar hot water 2.jpg

    Solar hot water.png

    Solar_hot_water 3.jpg

  9. I've been giving some thought to systems for a boat with electric propulsion and recharging it. Obviously using solar panels is a pretty common solution for charging the battery bank but as most panels seem to mounted in a fixed position they are very rarely at the optimum position for maximum output. One option would be to mount the panels that would normally be fixed to an arch on tiltable and rotatable poles instead. It may mean less total panel area but would the efficiency gains of adjusting throughout the day be worth it? Here's a couple of examples and some anecdotal evidence from the panel on Kapowai that indicates the potential.

     

     

    Solar pole.jpg

    Solar pole.png

    solar stik.jpg

    Tilt 7.jpg

    Tilt 2.jpg

    Tilt 6.jpg

  10. Still working the numbers but so far it is appearing that new for new sourced locally from dealers, it is still cheaper to replace a diesel than doing an electric conversion although one offshore dealer has a comparably priced kit but if you put your own kit together and source it from overseas it should be cheaper to do the conversion but the onboard power generation requirements still need to be considered v buying fuel and ongoing maintenance. There are some benefits to be had from going electric that some may feel worth paying extra for if electric suits their needs. You also need to consider the other systems needs on the boat such as electronics, electric windlass, hot water, refrigeration, heating, etc. and how you use them or what you could replace them with and at what cost. It's certainly an interesting exercise to see what's currently possible. 

  11. KM, you could also look at from the perspective that the total cost of the actual Uma setup is only USD$1,400 including motor, batteries and solar panels, they use it for no more than 30mins at a time as they like to sail, they have a slightly less than 9hp electric motor that performs closer to an IC engine of double that hp, have reduced maintenance, noise, vibration, smell, complexity of systems, no need to purchase fuel and increased their maneuverability and pleasure in a trade-off for less motoring range which with the savings they made could add a small portable generator and gain back a lot of range if they wanted and still not have spent NZD$3,000. Horses for courses.

  12. I agree with BP that I wouldn't just rip out a working engine to do a conversion but I started this thread due to the number of dead or near dead engines I have come across and was trying to work out where it might become a viable option to consider. There are plenty of case studies where people have done electric conversions but it will depend on YOUR requirements and the way YOU expect to use it. It certainly isn't a solution for everyone.

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