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Pecco

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Posts posted by Pecco

  1. Unfortunately, I am no expert and when I looked at them, it looked like stainless.

    I have never seen money before so, I wouldn't know.

    What I know is they looked good. Water ingress was only shy of them so, it was all revealed in time...

  2. In my heart I new the answer to the peoblem....just redo what is there

    I suppose I needed a confirmation that hell grinding and vacuum blowing was the solution.

    It may end up not being to bad ...the whole process of dismantling the cabinetry, insulate the working space for dust, rebuilding everything, is actually more involving than the job it self.

    I tell myself that this is probably the last big job left....

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  3. Sure  I am all in for the pro advise!

    I ll let you know how this evolves. It may take some time before i can get someone to have a look though....

    100% work vs 0% lately......looking to stay the same for a while....

  4. Yes, tedious job for sure but, you I've got to do what you ve got to do to do what you want to do.

    I can hear how it sounds like over doing it but, I ll be going offshore so I feel that I need to asses/address all the structural element of the boat.

    K4309, thank you for pointing out how the bolts could actually cause troubles, good points! 

    I need to be confident that with hard work, humbleness and knowledge the maintainens I do on the boat is emproving it, I could not own an old boat otherwise.

    I am wandering if an xray or eco sounding could help...?

    Ultimately using the same design could actually work. Inspection would fall back into the priority list given that I d be monitoring water ingress...

    Part of the doubts are that I don't know what happened in the decades prior to my ownership..

     

    As you said BP, I definitely need a pro looking at it....my daughter's magic wand is out of order:grin:

  5. It is definitely proven to work over time.

    The concern I have with the design is that you can not inspect it and the environment you are creating for the chain plate is far from ideal...replacing in the future is hard.

     

    I finally got the time and courage to take off all the lining that always obstructed a proper inspection. The reason for wanting to change them is because there is evidence of water ingress from the deck. Bit of rust here and there,  where the chain plate is exposed, no idea what s happening behind the fiber glass. Where the chain plate enters the hull, the glass is actually funneling inwads. Rather then making water go away it would have actually facilitated its ingress....

    lastly 50 years is a long time and it feels like a bet I wouldn't want to take.

    So, I may be overdoing it but, it would be a peace of mind kind of thing...

    I ve just redone the keel / hull joint seel because of some water ingress in the joint. Not fun but it needed to be tuckled properly, detach, inspect, re seal....again peace of mind, good for another 50 years.

    I guess I could reglass them in but, I am not too keen on the amount of grinding and dust, that is another factor.....lots of factors....mainly my inexperience and ignorance:-(

  6. Pls I need some help.

    Cavalier 32 50 years old encapsulated (glassed over) chain plates. Pls see the pics

    They reslly need to be replaced....

    I really would not want to reglass them in.

    I am thinking of taking the old one off the hull. Re glass the void.

    Reproduce the same chain plate (with a knee and horizontal plates and going for the same deck exit location).

    Make a new matching plate to through bolt from the outside of the hull.

     

    Intuitively I 'd think I would need to through bolt in all the locations where the original chain plate were glassed in right (vertical and horizontal)? This way I would be spreading the load to the hull the same way the designer intended to.

    Following this route would put some holes pretty low and close to the water line..maybe even under the water line. I need to measure properly. it makes me a bit doubtful and I am wandering if I can avoid bolting the lowest horizontal ones.

     

    Any suggestion would be very appreciated.

    Cheers!

    IMG-20240322-WA0002.jpeg

    IMG-20240322-WA0000.jpeg

  7. Right, That epoxy is still on 3 of the 5 bolts. 

    It looks like at some point someone changed the aft 2 with stainless.

    The two middle of keel are still original and are almost at the bottom of the keel, definitely strong!

    I did find a bit of water in those bottom slots hence my will to explore.....

  8. So, I owned a cavalier 32 for 6 years now.

    Researching the cav 32 keel bolts on the web always turned into a  depressing affair. 

    The answer was always J rod/bolts in the keel... meaning the thought of having a look in there always gave me nightmares.

    Making it short, I got the boat on the hard for other projects and noticed a slight dampness at the keel and hull joint.

     obviously I could not turn a blind eye and started digging around.

    To my biggest surprise I actually found the 5 slots in the keel where to undo the bottom bolt.

    Now, I ll probably will have to change this bolts and that's not an easy one  but, at list there is a way.

    So, if you have a cav 32 and had been led to believe you have J bolts, it may not be true...it s a good thing!

    I ve been trying to find what apear to be M20 bronze threaded rod. Is that the go? 

     

  9. 3 hours ago, Cameron said:

    I have installed the same as the link above on a boat... used it during Fiordland tour last summer. Brilliant

    I would want to use it offshore. I heard in the USA starlink cracked on people doing what you did and kind off told them they d interrupt the service If used inappropriately.....

    I am happy it worked for you and that you managed to get away with it, I don't know if I can be confortable relying on it like that...

  10. 8 hours ago, Jon said:

    PR, yes weather is actually more predictable by then

    May is just the first chance, can be rather wait and see some years, last year it was the best window mid to late May

    we left 10th June, traditional the correct time and had an interesting trip

    plus last year the weather was best in Fiji from mid July onwards anyway 

    Let me know if you need someone to do your Cat 1 if that’s what your doing 

    Hi Jon, 

    I ll PM you cheers

  11. The regular departure for the islands (Tonga/Vanuatu) has always been around May.

    Due to time constraints I can only afford to leave in August, back end of November.

    I would imagine that given the right weather window it should be fine....a part from colder temperature and stronger trade winds???

    Has anyone had experience with this?

    Cheers

  12. I ve been looking at some charts but, I have not come across shipping lanes as such. Do I need to look again???? Have I missed them? Or they are just not marked??

    I should add that I am planning a passage from Boi to Tauranga and I am wandering where i need to take particular care...

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