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Everything posted by Pecco

  1. I would personally replace any of the fundamental elements of the boat unless they had been taken care of already. About following seas, I am not sure I can agree....it does not feel that bad....
  2. I can confirm I fixed it myself for about $150. Checked some info in other forums and ordered the parts from the US. From memory the diameter of the seal is 12mm, not 13 like stated in the post. You can actually buy the all assebly and just stick it in. Check this guy's items https://www.ebay.com/itm/123359509860
  3. Unfortunately, I am no expert and when I looked at them, it looked like stainless. I have never seen money before so, I wouldn't know. What I know is they looked good. Water ingress was only shy of them so, it was all revealed in time...
  4. In my heart I new the answer to the peoblem....just redo what is there I suppose I needed a confirmation that hell grinding and vacuum blowing was the solution. It may end up not being to bad ...the whole process of dismantling the cabinetry, insulate the working space for dust, rebuilding everything, is actually more involving than the job it self. I tell myself that this is probably the last big job left....
  5. Sure I am all in for the pro advise! I ll let you know how this evolves. It may take some time before i can get someone to have a look though.... 100% work vs 0% lately......looking to stay the same for a while....
  6. Yes, tedious job for sure but, you I've got to do what you ve got to do to do what you want to do. I can hear how it sounds like over doing it but, I ll be going offshore so I feel that I need to asses/address all the structural element of the boat. K4309, thank you for pointing out how the bolts could actually cause troubles, good points! I need to be confident that with hard work, humbleness and knowledge the maintainens I do on the boat is emproving it, I could not own an old boat otherwise. I am wandering if an xray or eco sounding could help...? Ultimately using
  7. It is definitely proven to work over time. The concern I have with the design is that you can not inspect it and the environment you are creating for the chain plate is far from ideal...replacing in the future is hard. I finally got the time and courage to take off all the lining that always obstructed a proper inspection. The reason for wanting to change them is because there is evidence of water ingress from the deck. Bit of rust here and there, where the chain plate is exposed, no idea what s happening behind the fiber glass. Where the chain plate enters the hull, the glas
  8. Pls I need some help. Cavalier 32 50 years old encapsulated (glassed over) chain plates. Pls see the pics They reslly need to be replaced.... I really would not want to reglass them in. I am thinking of taking the old one off the hull. Re glass the void. Reproduce the same chain plate (with a knee and horizontal plates and going for the same deck exit location). Make a new matching plate to through bolt from the outside of the hull. Intuitively I 'd think I would need to through bolt in all the locations where the original chain plate were glassed in r
  9. It took a Lil more then a week end but.... New colors and name change... We did the bilge pee ceremony, that should keep us safe. More to do...
  10. Right, That epoxy is still on 3 of the 5 bolts. It looks like at some point someone changed the aft 2 with stainless. The two middle of keel are still original and are almost at the bottom of the keel, definitely strong! I did find a bit of water in those bottom slots hence my will to explore.....
  11. So, I owned a cavalier 32 for 6 years now. Researching the cav 32 keel bolts on the web always turned into a depressing affair. The answer was always J rod/bolts in the keel... meaning the thought of having a look in there always gave me nightmares. Making it short, I got the boat on the hard for other projects and noticed a slight dampness at the keel and hull joint. obviously I could not turn a blind eye and started digging around. To my biggest surprise I actually found the 5 slots in the keel where to undo the bottom bolt. Now, I ll probably will have to ch
  12. Done, Thank you for all your offers. Cheers
  13. I would want to use it offshore. I heard in the USA starlink cracked on people doing what you did and kind off told them they d interrupt the service If used inappropriately..... I am happy it worked for you and that you managed to get away with it, I don't know if I can be confortable relying on it like that...
  14. https://www.starlink.com/boats I think this is the price unfortunately....$4500 I also have some resistance on having internet on board...although convenient Dancing with the devil....I don't know...
  15. I ve looked into it briefly... Isn't the set up about$4000?
  16. Does anyone own a newish iridium go they wish to sell on? Cheers
  17. Is that still in the good old cav?
  18. Nice one! I did not hear of anyone doing it so, it made me wander. To me it is a reasonable time cruising and the wind should be steadier too. Great, thank you for the reassurance
  19. The regular departure for the islands (Tonga/Vanuatu) has always been around May. Due to time constraints I can only afford to leave in August, back end of November. I would imagine that given the right weather window it should be fine....a part from colder temperature and stronger trade winds??? Has anyone had experience with this? Cheers
  20. Hi Jon, Thank you, i thought so. Cheers
  21. I ve been looking at some charts but, I have not come across shipping lanes as such. Do I need to look again???? Have I missed them? Or they are just not marked?? I should add that I am planning a passage from Boi to Tauranga and I am wandering where i need to take particular care...
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