cep32 4 Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 There seems to be more Javelin sailors here than on the Javelin site so here goes. What diameter should a gennaker retrevial chute be for a Javelin gennaker with two retrevial patches? To go with that question, has anyone used bags instead and are there any plus sides? Cheers, Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cep32 4 Posted March 5, 2016 Author Share Posted March 5, 2016 Thanks heaps for the offer but the Auckland to Nelson transport thing is a problem unfortunately. The current shute tapers from 140mm diameter at the bulkhead to 170mm near the bow before widening out when it rises up to the foredeck. I haven't tried to drag the gennaker through it yet but figure its a fair bit too small. If I have to make a new one I was just going to make the mold out of cardboard and foam as I'll only have to use it once. The other issue I have come up against is that if I want to put a prod through the front tank (bow stem to bulkhead) where it will exit the stem is really low and likely to be under water when sailing in any swell or chop. This is to avoid the current shute so maybe making a new one offset would be the way to go. A stayed prod is looking like the simplest option at this point. I hate the tensioning issues with the side stays so was hoping to avoid it if possible. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ScottiE 174 Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 I'm sure KM-m will be able to get it to you pretty cost effectively. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RushMan 31 Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 I'm sure KM-m will be able to get it to you pretty cost effectively. The cost might increase to a rum if freight is involved! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cep32 4 Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 I suspect even for me freighting would be easier than suggesting to my wife she was wrong about something and I know nothing about freighting anything. One of those universal things I imagine. I put a stayed prod on my last Jav and used Dynex Dux but found that the creep was too much and we were forever having to retension it. I'll take your advice and if the gennaker drags through the shute OK I'll do a fixed prod with stainless stays this time. One thing I struggled with last time was find a way of getting clearance between the hull and the tang to fit a shackle. Did you guys use one of these instead http://www.ronstan.com/marine/product.asp?ProdNo=RF43A If the gennaker doesn't drag through shute easily I'll have to make a new one so might as well go the whole hog. The idea is to have a receival tube running from the stem to the bulkhead with a stop in the tube at the bulkhead end. The prod will then just slide in and a bob stay be shackled to the bottom of the stem. I have all of the carbon tube to do this courtesy of Killwell. To do this I need to move the shute out to the side as I need the centreline for the prod. If I try to position the prod under the existing shute it exits the bow stem too low and will be under the water every time we go through a wave. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cep32 4 Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 Thanks heaps for the offer. I have a couple of things to work through to check how much work everything is going to be and what is actually going to work at all. So the gennaker seems pretty hard to pull through the existing chute so a new chute seems in order. With that in mind I figure I might as well do all the bits I want to do but figure I should at least check with someone with some experience in these things first. One thing to keep in mind with all of this is my wife, while enjoying sailing the Jav with me, hates any faffing involved with setting up beforehand. On top of this I'm keen to be able to sail with the kids without the prod on ideally as we'll typically be looking for small steep beaches, estuaries, islands and the like to sail to to camp or explore so don't want the boat to be that long. Happy to be told not to worry about it of course. This means removing and installing the prod needs to be super easy and quick. Your description of rigging the stayed prod gives me hope that we could go with this option but before I do the diagram below shows what I was originally hoping to do. The idea is that I can just slide the prod into the receival tube and then attach the bob-stay which wouldn't need to be super tight as it is just there to take a bit of load when the prod bends up. I realise that this layout means extra weight but it does give me the flexibility to do a retractable one later on in say 5-7 years time if the kids are wanting to get a bit more adventurous. It would also be super simple and quick to rig. I am a bit worried that the bow stem and the front of the hull won't be up to handling the loads even with liberal application of some carbon fibre scraps a mate has offered me for the job. I'm not sure about the off-set retrieval chute either but it seems to be needed otherwise the point where the prod exits the bow stem is too low and will scoop water into the cockpit with every wave. I have all the materials for the above set-up as a result of Killwell having a cosmetic second 49er mast. Any thoughts? Cheers, Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cep32 4 Posted March 17, 2016 Author Share Posted March 17, 2016 Hmmmmm. Lots to think about. As a test I bought a spray can of silicon sailcote and after liberal application to both gennaker and retrieval chute the gennaker slides in pretty easily. I think some more thinking time is in order. I'll leave the prod until last as I have a new centreboard to make (the old one split on the first sail) as well as all the hull and side tank repairs to do this winter. Depending on what option I go with I might come back to you. Especially if I can steal a few carbon cloth scraps that you might have hanging round. I've been meaning to ask, any updates on the Jav at your end? Cheers, Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cep32 4 Posted March 18, 2016 Author Share Posted March 18, 2016 Where did you get the DM20 from? By the time I pay someone to make up some wire stays it might cost more than me getting some fancy fibre and splicing it myself. I did my trapeze lines with 4mm dyneema (whatever Nelrig do for $2.40/m) and enjoyed doing the splicing. All the posts I read tell me you do this sort of thing but you really need to put a link to your website in your profile so I can at least spend my money in the right place. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cep32 4 Posted March 20, 2016 Author Share Posted March 20, 2016 Just answered my own question after a bit of online stalking. Have asked about DM20 on your website. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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