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cep32

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About cep32

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  • Location
    Nelson
  1. So I have to install a gennaker halyard block on or in the mast of the Javelin. Ideally I'd like to go internal as there are a couple of internal blocks at the bottom of the mast for the halyard to exit from. I'm worried about the size of the hole I'll need to cut in the mast though. The mast is about 40mm in diameter at the hoist point. Do I need to be worried or should I just install the smallest through block I can find (275kg odd MWL and 1000kg BL for an RF20711HL)? Cheers, Chris
  2. cep32

    Forestay cleat

    Thanks everyone. I plan on doing the pulley and cleat thing next summer when funds are available. In the meantime, stay adjuster it is.
  3. Wow, that looks awesome. Looks like you had a bit more work to do than I did. It's always good to see older boats being given a new lease of life.
  4. So after the disaster of having my Javelin blown across the concrete at the yacht club during a storm a couple of years ago I have finally got the motivation to get it up and running again. Last night was the final top coat so it finally feels like the hard work is done. Work done: Add prod New gennaker retrieval chute (to fit around new prod) Replace all aluminium bracing with carbon fibre tube Add extra bracing at back of centreboard case Remove traveler bar and replace with low bracing frame on cockpit floor Sheath side tanks in glass Add two way pressure release valves to ta
  5. cep32

    Forestay cleat

    Thanks everyone. I went to have a look at the FD's but they all have on-the-fly rig adjustment which is a bit complicated for a simple soul like me. I'm a bit nervous about an aluminium hook rack as I've seen one fail in spectacular fashion. I've narrowed it down to two options: 1. An Allen Brothers Highfield lever (if I can find one) 2. A mast hound mounted upside down with a stay adjuster attached (easy to find) Cheers, Chris
  6. cep32

    Forestay cleat

    Hi Matt, Yes I'm still in Nelson. It would be great to have you over sail when I've got the Jav up and running. The complicating factor is I run a jib furler when I sail with the kids so there is no room for a separate forestay. When the jib isn't up I have a bummy stay that I unclip from the bottom of the mast and attach to the bow before dropping the jib. I'm not looking to adjust anything while I'm sailing, just to allow me to use different jibs depending on who I'm sailing with. Another idea I had was to use a boom slide in a track but I'm not sure if that will handle t
  7. cep32

    Forestay cleat

    Oh, and if an adjustable Highfield lever is the only way to go, anyone have any idea who might stock on in NZ?
  8. cep32

    Forestay cleat

    I apologise if this is a stupid question but I haven't been able to find anything online. I'm rigging up my Javelin to allow me to raise the jib with the forestay. The jib also has wire in the luff so the wire will go from the bow, up to the front of the mast, down the mast and then needs to be anchored at the base of the mast somehow. Ideally it would be good to have some adjustment on the mast as well to allow for raking the mast more or less. I've seen the Highfield lever option but is there a cheaper way? Could I use a small bull horn cleat and a short length of dyneema between
  9. Does anyone have an older Javelin jib with a shorter foot that they would be willing to sell? Cheers, Chris
  10. Thanks for the feedback. I've been puzzling a bit over this and have decided that I'll fit a bob-stay and see how it goes. If I run it loose and it doesn't load up I'll remove it.
  11. Having completed the job I figure I should feed back the result. I used turtle wax like you would use on your car. 10 thin layers with drying time in between. Polish once hard. Then glass straight over top. For the first layer of glass I wet the glass out on a plastic plate first then laid it on the mould. This was to avoid any chance of the wax contaminating the glass weave. The result has been good. The mould released easily without the need for PVA release agent. Keep in mind this probably only works if you are destroying the mould when you remove it. Cheers, Chris
  12. I've put a carbon prod on my old Javelin and am wondering whether I can get away without a bob-stay. The prod is the bottom section of a 49er mast which is 64mmOD and 3.5mm wall thickness. Does anyone have any experience with what sort of size the prod sections are when unstayed in the Javelin fleet (their Google Groups site doesn't seem to be used much)? Cheers, Chris
  13. I'm prepping a mould for fibreglassing. The shape is very complex and as a result I have decided to destroy the mould to remove it from the fibreglass part. If I'm cutting the mould out, do I need to use PVA release agent on top of the 10 or so layers of release wax or can I get away with just using the wax? Cheers, Chris
  14. Thanks for that. Looks like I have a plan.
  15. Sorry for the delay in getting back. The board is about 15mm thick and I would be standing about 1.2m out from the hull. For those of you that have carbon tape on the centreboard, does it cover the whole width or just a strip down the widest point on the board? Cheers, Chris
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