RedLine 0 Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 Hi am about to drop my boat back onto a new keel at the end of the week. I have made a nice flat landing pad from glass/hd filler. But want to be able to perhaps remove it again in future if it was ever damaged for example. Looked on the Sika web site and they recommend Sika 292. But it seems this isn't availble in NZ. But Sika NZ reckon the standard 291 would be ok for this application. I could join with a thickened epoxy mixture, but want something semi flexible, and able to be taken apart without resorting to an angle grinder. Is bog standard Sika 291 ok for an application like this. Note I will be filling the oversize keel bolt holes etc with thickened epoxy, but bolts can be removed later by using a blow torch or long plug cutter to remove them so its not irreversable. Any thoughts or suggestions on an approriate material for this sort of use? Cheers Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 whichever method you use it will be a sh*t fight to get it off. If it was mine I would release wax the keel then epoxy glue it on. the day you have to remove it heat will be you best friend, but you will still need to cut and chisel the nice flat you've made, and down around the internal stub. sika being very elastic will give you bolt torque issues for quite some time. On crusing imports there is typically enough suface area on the top of the fin and the vcg of the keel is typically way higher than what you have got, for sika to be ok. The j111 had its keel originally set with wax paper on the fin for it's sea trials in usa prior to it being shipped down here off the keel. Link to post Share on other sites
Changed 10 Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 Different topic by same thread. What shoould I put over freshly exposed steel on the keel fin before glassing the hull to fin joint. Also how wider tape should be used for this (weight, layers etc.). Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 If you can get it intergard 269 is the best ive used. Interprotect will do it. Idealy a non build type epoxy primer. Got a photo ? are you glassing fin to hull or flange to hull ? how bigger gap have you filled ..... typically 3 layers 400g to be safe lapped minimum 70/50/30 to clean hull or flange/keel. so if it was a 20mm gap the first layer would be 160 wide post a photo or sketch Link to post Share on other sites
Changed 10 Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 Thanks Gary. On CC the keel bolts are tapped into the top of the keel.The top of the keel and the hull 'flat were bogged before the bolts were done up. There is a cove and then glass 150 wide db tape(x3) staggered over the join. Unfortunately it has pull away where it covers the steel at the top of the fin. I'm going to grind it back and start again next week. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 Give me a yell when your getting lifted I'll try and meet you and alex, and give the keel a kick so to speak. to make sure theres no underlining issue Link to post Share on other sites
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