Incognito 86 0 Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 We are trying to replace an existing heavily corroded ignition switch. The existing switch starts a Daedong TD1400 diesel engine and has off, plug heating and start functions. It has six terminals which have various markings which we cannot work out. We have bought a similar switch that seems to be able to be used on out board or diesel engines in that it has a three position key and a push function. The new switch has, we believe, standard S, A or I, two M terminals, B and C. What we cannot work out is which wires go to which terminals on the new switch as the wire colour coding is non existant. (needless to say we did not wire the original switch) The wires we have are a thicker red(which seems to be marked R on the old switch and black (marked S on the old switch) both attached to the engine. The black has a spade terminal and appears to be attached to a solenoid(?) and the red is attached by a nut onto another part (? plugs). There is a red from the engine log and a red from the instrument panel. There are two linked brown cables which also seem to go to instruments(?).One of these seems to be marked + on the old switch. The only definite seem to be that the engine log goes to A or I. Where the other cables go is only guess work for us. Any thoughts on what goes where or ideas where we may get a wiring diagram much appreciated ! Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 OK, first step, It's best you identify what wires go where, and label them. Second step is to identify the switch connections. I also suggest you go buy a cheap multi-meter and learn how to use it. It can solve so many problems. Sounds like you have a Key switch for an outboard engine with "Letter coding" as follows. Bor "Batt" is the live positive supply that comes from the battery. Probably (hopefully) goes via a fuse/breaker. I is the terminal that livens everything needed for the engine to operate. If the engine is stopped by the key also(not a pull stop) then you may have a stop solinoid and possibly a fuel solinoid on the engine, which goes to that connection also. The sense wire from the Alternator may also go to that connection, along with the instruments. S is the start solinoid, which is on the "start position" of the key. That's the position that the key springs back from, so it engages the starter solinoid when you turn to it. M is for outboard engines with magnetos. The other M, would go to earth in an outboard situation. Cis for electronic choke. That is the terminal that becomes live when you push the Key in. You could use that for the Glow plugs providing they do not draw too much current for the switch. I hope this helps, but if you are confused or more confused now by all this, then I suggest you get a Marine sparky to sort it for you. Link to post Share on other sites
Incognito 86 0 Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share Posted October 22, 2012 Thanks for that, what you said makes perfect sense and we are OK with the switch positions. The difficulty we have come up against is that the origin of the wires doesn't appear to adhere to any system that I can identify. for example None of the inputs seem to go to an earth anywhere and there doesn't appear to be any direct connection to the battery! The ignition did work prior but how its wired is beyond me. Just wondering whether we had missed something obvious As you reccommend it may be time for the experts. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Can you trace the wires you have and identify what they connect to? I could then tell you what to connect them to on the switch. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Thanks for that, what you said makes perfect sense and we are OK with the switch positions. The difficulty we have come up against is that the origin of the wires doesn't appear to adhere to any system that I can identify. for example None of the inputs seem to go to an earth anywhere and there doesn't appear to be any direct connection to the battery! The ignition did work prior but how its wired is beyond me. Just wondering whether we had missed something obviousAs you reccommend it may be time for the experts. Thanks Unless the installation is a total trainsmash that has been "modified" by past owners there should be 1, and only 1, positive feed to the switch. Determine this by disconnecting each wire in turn & checking with a voltmeter to earth. It will generally be the largest diameter wire and will go to the energised terminal of the starter rather than straight to the battery. There will be no ground terminal on the switch. How many wires in total do you have? Link to post Share on other sites
Incognito 86 0 Posted October 24, 2012 Author Share Posted October 24, 2012 Hiya Thanks for the help We have 6 wires and seven terminals on the back of the new ignition. A ‘thick’ red that leads to the starboard side of the engine. From what pwederell said I assume this is the positive now – Thanks A thin red from engine hours log to ignition A thick black which leads to the port side of the engine (? Solenoid) Thin brown with two linked terminals at ignition end which splits part way with one end leading to a log switch and the second to the instruments (temp gauge, oil pressure etc.) Thin red that leads directly to the instrument panel (temp gauge, oil pressure etc.) The old switch was a three position, off, momentary to warm plugs and Start. The new switch is a four position with Off, momentary, On and push in for Choke (Is this function not required in this set-up and designed for petrol outboards??) Any ideas well received - Thanks Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 Mate, you have to Identify 100% each wire. You can not assume anything just because of it's size and what side of the engine it is leading to. The only thing I can say 100% is that yes the push feature of the switch is for a Petrol outboard. So what you have to identify. One wire (maybe the heavy red...maybe) will have +12V on it. This will go to the main terminal (Batt) on the switch. While the switch is in normal run mode, one terminal will be linked to the input terminal and so will always be live while switch is on. This will connect to the wires to all instruments and anything else yoiu want running while switch is on. Does the engine have a pull stop or key stop? Does the engine have an electric fuel stop? One critical thing you need to know. The heaters may be connected via a solenoid, so you are only switch a low current with the switch, or it maybe direct to switch. The switch needs to be capable of handling that current. So you need to find that out also. Link to post Share on other sites
Incognito 86 0 Posted October 25, 2012 Author Share Posted October 25, 2012 Thanks for the info. Have admitted defeat and took a marine sparky 20 mins and a bit of re-jigging but all done. Appreciate the help Link to post Share on other sites
raz88 96 Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Any chance you have the details of the sparky you used? Particularly if you're around Westhaven? Link to post Share on other sites
Incognito 86 0 Posted November 2, 2012 Author Share Posted November 2, 2012 We are out at Half moon bay so used Half moon bay electrical based at the boat yard. Always been pretty good in the past Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 I've mucked up my ignition light. I have a wire coming from the ignition switch which gets active when I turn the key either on or backwards for the glowplugs. I just can't figure where to put the other side of the light. I understand it needs to be somewhere that is negative when the engine is off and positive when the engine starts. I tried one spot and let the SMOKE out! Link to post Share on other sites
rigger 47 Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 I've mucked up my ignition light. I have a wire coming from the ignition switch which gets active when I turn the key either on or backwards for the glowplugs. I just can't figure where to put the other side of the light. I understand it needs to be somewhere that is negative when the engine is off and positive when the engine starts. I tried one spot and let the SMOKE out! Definition of electricity - smoke contained within wire Screw with it and the electricity escapes - hence you seee smoke.... Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 And so far no one has worked out how to get the smoke back in. It has also been suggested that there are different types of electricity, based on the many different colours of smoke seen from different components and wires etc. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 Agreed, yeh I had 5 wires attached to the back of one post on the ignition switch so attached a plastic joiner block and moved all the wires to there with loops to carry the current through, the loops were in smaller wire as could not fit the larger stuff in and of course the smaller wires were the ones that let out the smoke. So a late night re wiring the smoke generator! The alternators a bosch 100 amp and using one of these external regulators from trademe. Simple linear type regulator that has a control to turn the volts up or down. I found a post on the alternator that I thought may turn positive when the motor goes but it went neg so a dead short thus smoke! Woopsy. Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.