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raz88 last won the day on December 10 2022

raz88 had the most liked content!

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About raz88

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  • Birthday 16/12/1980

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  1. Yep it's got a self adhesive backing. I also went around the edges with this stuff. https://www.marine-deals.co.nz/vetus-self-adhesive-tape-roll-aluminium-30m?q=Vetus+tape&h=14
  2. I found the same, however it turned out not too hard to make a decision in the end. Vybar sounded good, but found sopac so hard to deal with that I gave up. Foreman insulation have been bought by flectures and seem geared up to sell house lots of batts but couldn't figure out how to sell me 1 sheet of marine insulation. Had poor feedback/reviews on the burnsco product. Had a quick look into the dynamat suggested above. it seemed that for marine engine bay installations you should use two of their products laid over each other, which seemed more complex to install and more
  3. As said by a couple of people above, I've recently bought a stainless one for my yanmar from hdi marine. Haven't fitted yet, but looks better and much cheaper including shipping than oem from the local agent and was here in a week.
  4. Thanks T. Will give them a ring tomorrow. Although if there's a lightweight version which does close to the same job it would be preferable.
  5. Needing to replace a sheet of insulation under my engine box lid which is crumbly and horrible. Is there a go-to product people would recommend for this? I see burnsco have this - don't know if anyone has tried it out? https://www.burnsco.co.nz/softsound-engine-insulation?gclid=Cj0KCQiAzeSdBhC4ARIsACj36uFE2MErP1wzrrM1b-MuRwm4UQzXOR6tCN-rkXHjKNhTTnsbK5rnMdsaAtLsEALw_wcB
  6. One thing I've found with rope work is a cheap ceramic knife from aliexpress does a better job and doesn't seem to blunt as quickly as a metal one, particularly on dyneema. Plus they don't rust.
  7. Probably the best thing to do is to go on Facebook and join the crew finder pages for rnzys and Richmond yacht club. Or the "nz sailing" or "women who sail nz" groups.
  8. The article says steering damage and taking on water, presumably if taking on water it'll sink rather than drift.
  9. My read of the article is that they're saying there may be circumstances where you'd favor a regular pfd over/instead of an inflatable. Not to literally wear an additional lifejacket over the top of an inflatable one...
  10. Or when we imported one from aus a few years back, on an aus built one. The closer economic relations au/nz treaty means aus built boats also exempt from duty here (gst still applies).
  11. I agree with psyche, but am concerned about category inspection or pre race safety inspections by clubs if the manufacturer specifies your lifejacket needs pro servicing and you've self serviced it. The baltic material is still ambiguous. Refers to the ability to self service but that they 'recommend' professional servicing.
  12. Interested in where this info comes from? Particularly re Baltic, which I have, as the information on the Baltic website says that you should have it serviced each year by an authorized agent OR you can do it yourself. Is the above from ynz? Or just something collated from what you could find?
  13. Need it for coastal too. Not all the boats do both SSANZ and coastal but plenty do. Not sure about gold cup, maybe need it for that too?
  14. To be fair, they also don't consider their own races - the last date they tried was during their own 3 kings race.
  15. Not sure that anyone has directly answered the questions so here goes. 1. Between $200 for an hour on the floating dock and $700 for an out, in and clean somewhere like pier 21. 2. $20 - $30ish a day depending where. 3. $1000-2000 depending who, where, what covering etc. 4. Been discussed above, around 3k. Depends if just replacing wire or whether the rigging screws need replacing as well. 5. Ballpark $1000/year but varies depending on risk so where you keep it etc 6. Couple of grand if you can find a friendly delivery crew. Generally done by the day so depends
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