Young Entertainer
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Posts posted by Young Entertainer
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thanks, my issue has been covered perfectly, i put a new one in 3 weeks ago, and the box failed after 5hrs, was told they have never seen that before, yet in talking to other owners it very quickly became apparent it is a well known issue, my box was replaced under warranty with a warning that i need to get the whole electrics on the boat checked as another failure would not be covered, will have that argument if the time comes, engine was installed by a volvo dealer and signed off with the 5yr warranty so until that time i dont want to make mods that void that such as shifting the box but i will mark it down to be done the day it comes out of warranty, given the new engines run so hot i am questioning the placement of the box directly below the heat exchanger.
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Anyone got comments on these engines, specifically anyone had one installed and had any issues with it?
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we have the same setup, pull the lines forward when we are sailing/racing, never leave them out when the cover is on, dont put them out to raise the main, but do put them out to lower, on my last boat (1020) i made them strong enough to hold the boom up for the drop and it saved having a topper. Current boat has a hard vang so not required to hold the boom up and do work slightly better when a bit looser. We will strip the boat for racing but somehow the lazy jacks get to stay
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the delivery i ordered today doesnt have an ETA but wont be before the 25th March, hence the reason we ordered, might be another holiday on the boat if we run out!
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we are tank water also, average about 500l a day in summer with two preteen kids, so i guess 125l per person per day. our 50k of storage is at 25% and i ordered water today for the first time in 15years of being on a tank so it is definately a dry year.
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Currently in the boat and can be seen running, seatrialled.
Will be removed as part of a repower, freshwater cooled, includes instrument panel, saildrive and kiwi prop. Runs perfectly, needs real seal done when it is out of the boat and mechanic advised that the heat exchanger should be cleaned at last service in October
Just motored 20hrs back from Bay week no issue, and happy for you to be involved in removing from the boat if you want, I am working towards a repower mid May/June
Looking for 5k for the lot
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I put electric into my 1020 a few years ago, but did the cabinet at the same time and had the copper fused to the back of the stainless, worked exceptionally, and was great as i had shore power so ice stayed there 24/7 but be aware you cannot reuse the existing stainless box if it has been for a compressor as you need to remove the brine tanks, this could have been 5k on its own, luckily I didn't have brine tanks so reused and the whole job was about 4k including a digital controller so the freezer stayed at -15 constantly. used about 3amps an hour for 100litres so was pretty efficient. New boat has compressor, no where near as good as i have to start the motor even when it is sunny!
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yeah decided to push the marina and got a slot on the hard for 4 days pre xmas to the old one can come off and i can put a new one on properly, always mange to find a rush job pre holidays!
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it is a corner of my saildrive rubber, not mission critical but would like to stick it back to the hull for the break, no time available on the heard stand, but i am up for a half hour next week so i though dry it up as much as possible and put something on that will set underwater. Only has to last a month then I can do it properly
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last one i did i just went out, anchored, hoisted main and jib with the tail round the winch and then back to the cockpit and pushed the up button on the anchor, seemed to work remarkably well, and I stayed in the same place the whole time
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any good ideas for some form of glue/adhesive that can be applied underwater, will be short term fix over xmas to glue a piece of rubber onto fibreglass, save me a separate haulout just to do this dry.
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managed to break the normal volvo throttle so thinking about replacing with one that will take a winch handle, anyone have recommendations or advice. So far mr Google seems to be pointing to a spinlock option
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I have a aqua pro, probably 15+ years old, have taken it from boat to boat, lives outside on a dinghy rack uncovered, finally admitted it needed some love last xmas and got it retubed, 3rd the cost of replacing and hopefully will see another 10 years out of it with the same abuse. best thing is it takes the entire family and supplies in a single trip an keeps my arse dry in a bit of a chop
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Specifically the plastic bit that wraps around the furling drum and is connected to a metal arm the then connected so the guide arm,
somehow it managed to get detached while out racing on the weekend!
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Golden Pond having a rest a Gulf Harbour then will be trialling the boat a launch tomorrow to get back to pine harbour
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he was so I imagine that was a tough day at the office if he did lose it, having to get it cut away solo
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Heard that Golden Pond Lost its rig but is back at Gulf Harbour
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interested in the 2 x shackles, is that because you cannot find one that fits from the anchor to the chain directly, I have the same anchor and chain setup and any of the rated galv shackles i have been able to find wont fit one or the other so I ended up with 2 but then kept getting them caught on the bow fitting as the anchor lifted so end up removing, currently using a stainless shackle that does fit both but the load rating is a lot less. Have been considering putting on a swivel simply to remove the 2 shackle need. It seems a bit of a design flaw on the Sacra 16kg that it does not easily mate to 8mm chain.
I currently have a mate with the same who is in the lifting equipment game who is trying to source decent shackle to connect these together in one go
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thats the new wharf for fullers (passenger ferry) apparently in the planning of the new wharf none of the designers thought about the fact that the tide goes out
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so after trying lots of options and getting no where the B&G helpdesk had me confirm the connection of each piece of the network, MHU was plugged into the first T but it was plugged into 90 degree part of the T rather than the the Cross Bar, apparently if not plugged into the Crossbar as it is a terminating end then it causes problems, and the autopilot needs to also be plugged into the 90 degree bit not an end so swapped these over and seems to have solved the problem. Just incase any one has the same problem
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and so this poped up on my trade me this morning
back in nolex 25 days we had a just a hole, and once the water had drained out we would put a stopped in it flush with the bottom
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thanks will try some testing tonight and see how i get on
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Got a Zesus2 with three triton displays, out sailing last Sunday and all the instruments stopped giving readings, boat speed, depth, and wind.
Back in the marina I unplugged and replugged in the data plugs from the bus? then it all started working again, but now when ever I leave it off for a day and then power the instruments back on the wind gear does not get any data until I unplug and replud in the cable from the bus.
Any ideas on what might cause that, it seems once it is running it is fine, but maybe not getting a data source on start up.
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Boom cover gone, cheers
Volvo Penta D1-30F
in TechTalk
Posted
Acccording to the book thermostat starts opening at 90deg and not fully open until 102deg, i have been told that 100 deg is not unusual and wont trigger the alarm, will check that part number next time i am down, i am also going to take an IR thermometer and check what temp the heat exchanger gets to