mcp
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Posts posted by mcp
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Yes, but not the 200gm cloth.
Oh, sorry...I over looked that.
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I suspect a few tons of water propelled the liferaft into the windows which were probably glass.
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Thanks, but they have 1020mm only, some places seem to have 1270mm widths, hunting around at the moment (Will take longer to find then to just overlap and fair I suspect)
When I click on that link they were all 1270mm wide and I have purchased it off them at 1270mm wide.
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The one time i have been inverted i was down below and my ears popped
Pressure increase, rather than decrease?
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Can anyone tell me where to get wider pieces of boat cloth than 1m?
Everywhere I google has rolls 1m wide, I need a bit wider, and dont want a join.
http://www.adhesivetechnologies.co.nz/Products/Fabrics/Biaxial/
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Thanks guys. I have my new docklines via CRA. Sharp pricing compared to other companies as well.
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Yep, but the fiords are (like the sounds) usually very steep to, so you can get in really close. We used to often be with 2-5m of the beach/rocks...
What scope would you drop your anchor at?
Actually, could you describe the technique for stern too in a anchorage like this?
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Do any of the main sail makers use Hydranet as standard? and what is the premium?
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Cheers guys. So 3 or 8 strand nylon is the go. IT, you mentioned sizing, which haven't considered yet...are there any general guidelines there?
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Yes Meths will thin epoxy. But you do need to be aware that Meths absorbs moisture from the air and so putting it into Epoxy also puts moisture into the Epoxy. There are also a couple of other products in Meths that are not solvents and thus also contaminate Epoxy. As a cleaner, it is fine. Overseas, Methanol is often used as a poison in Meths. But in NZ, Methanol is no longer used. However, I am not sure about Oz, where Super cheap and Bunnings products come from.
Cellulose thinners will also thin Epoxy. But it isn't cheap stuff. The bigger problem is that it is has a very fast evaporation rate and you will likely lose 50% of it to the air before it dissolves the Epoxy.
Epoxy thinners is a mix of three different solvents. It does not evaporate as fast as the thinner above. Nor do they absorb moisture. It easily evaporates out of an epoxy mix leaving nothing behind.
The advantages of either the above thinners is that it will break down Epoxy that maybe tacky, but not fully cured. Which in this case, sounds to be the issue. So it should be the best to use in my view.
Meths does not act as a solvent to nearly cured Epoxy. So it may not work as well at removing the tacky stuff.
Acetic Acid (Vinegar) stops the cross linking process and thus stops the curing process dead in its tracks. However, it will not actually mix with epoxy. It will help in breaking down the sticky stuff on your hands. BUT DO NOT use it to thin epoxy.
What are they using in place of Methanol in NZ now? Surely its not pure ethanol?
Back on the main subject. You didn't mentioned Acetone in the above? I have used this for clean up and it does a great job. Is there a reason you have left this out or is one of the ingredients in the epoxy thinners? or?
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What is the general consensus on Dockline rope type and length?
A recommended product and outlet would be great to know also.
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The battery in your link is rated 120Ah at the 20hr rate. The hour rate is how capacity is measured and at 25 Degrees Celsius and more hours use will give you slightly elevated capacity. A true 120Ah would be rated at the 10hr rate like this battery https://waveinverter.co.nz/shop/deep-cycle-battery/fm120/
Also just something that seems to ring true 'almost' all of the time with common lead acid types, the heavier the battery, the higher the real world no BS capacity. A lighter battery with the same Ah rating is likely to have some marketing/ghost amp hours and we know we can't use those marketing/ghost amp hours.
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It is probably working perfectly. 14.1v is likely its upper setting and 13.3 its lower setting.
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lead carbon are better than both!
With the exception of high drain loads causing high voltage sag. I would still use an AGM [maybe the diesel motors battery] for the windlass and would have very short runs or over sized cables to high current consumers. They can be fussy with charging, as with most new battery types.
I really am on the fence about going Lead Carbon or Lithium Iron Phosphate.
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You are correct and this is more about how we are viewing the topic I guess. Yes there is a resistance and that resistance is needed for the circuit to work. But they do not take into their calculations the resistance of the battery to set a charge current. That is a factor of Voltage. In fact these smart chargers often will not work at all if the battery has no Voltage (total 100% discharge). The resistance state will be max and would normally take a non regulated charger to max current for a short time. For the smart charger, but there must be a voltage present to kick the charger off. No voltage, no work. In fact you can short the leads together and nothing will happen. That would be max resistance.
So in regards to your original comment, what I am saying is that the resistance is not a factor of how a smart charger charges. For instance, if you think about this, for a plain PS type charger, the charge current is constantly reducing as the charge is accepted and thus battery resistance decreasing. These type of chargers need a higher OC voltage so that via simple ohms law, they produce a current into the resistance. Which is what you are saying.
But for a smart charger( the clever ones), the charge current remains constant. These chargers use algorithims and the temperature of the battery is sensed and adjusted for buy calculation. The algoritims are complex and is why these chargers tend to be so darn expensive.
When a battery is charged or discharged, only the reacting chemicals, which are at the surface of the Plates, are initially affected. This is called Surface or interface charge. This charge enters the depth of the plate by diffusion only and that is a factor of time. This also in a way happens in reverse when discharging and is why Purkets Law is used to caculate correct dishcarge states of the battery.
Raising voltage above normal charge points is what causes gassing. In an equalisation charge, the voltage is lifted substantially and current dropped substantially to compensate. This causes the gas by electrolysys which stirs up the elctrolyte. If the voltage was increased against pure resistance, then the resulting current would simply boil the electrolyte in very short time. Heat kills batteries.
Wheels, you know an awful lot. No question! Some of what you are saying above is 100% correct but some of the links you are drawing and examples you are giving sound plausible but but are not correct in physics and that is ultimately the test for anything electrical.
I think if you and I got together with a whiteboard and some beers, we would soon easily understand what each other is saying. But continuing this on a forum is pointless as we are looking at this from different levels.
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Electro Motive Force (EMF) is the Force (voltage) of the electrons as they flow (current) through a circuit. That circuit can be as simple as a wire passing through a magnetic field (generator).
*sigh* That would be Electro "Magnetic" Force
MCP,
Battery EMF is the correct term and has been since I did my electrical technical education, many years ago. On technical matters, that is how think and speak. However, I.T. (Matt) is correct and terminology needs to be appropriate for the forum and discussion subject.
Yes, there is a chemical reaction at the electrodes isn't there? It does not describe voltage, voltage only describes its potential.
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When in regards to a very simple power supply, as in a Transformer and Rectifier (simple non regulated battery charger) yes simple Ohms law, (or resistance), would be correct.
But for a properly designed/controlled multistep charger, the Battery resistance does not apply.
And yes, there are some chargers out there that are more about marketing hype than actual "smarts", but there are also many chargers that are truly very sophisticated computer controlled charging devices.
Wheels no and sorry, I do not want to disrespect you as you are very knowledgeable in so many technical areas and have taught me tons about repairs and other little golden musings while reading your posts on this website......but without being a load the battery can not be charged. Also, because a battery heats and gases, this proves the battery is a resistive load to the charger. Ohms law applies to every circuit..always.
Multistage chargers are made out to be super technical devices and they really are not. Some of them that are running FPGA's [Field programmable gate array's - for IslandTime] where firmware can be updated and they can integrate with other systems are getting quite clever. But the charge circuits themselves do a relatively straight forward job and are not complicated. The stages are labeled so they sound fancy, 3 or 5 or 7 stages, they describe the stages that the battery is at. There really are only two stages of a multistage charger and that is charge and float. The rest is a description of what the battery is doing and what the marketing department use.
Luigi - EMF / Electromotive force is going to describe changing another type of energy into an electrical energy and describe its potential for work [in volts] ie: a wind turbine will convert wind energy into electrical energy, is where you would use emf in your example/description. A cell in a solar panel would be another great example.
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First of all, you cannot use ohms law to calculate the charge current into the battery.
Easy. Batteries resistance [at its current state of charge - this changes as it charges] / voltage = Current. I = R/V is ohms law and this is a prefect example of how it works. A battery changer can not rewrite the laws of physics.
I am very aware of how these chargers work but they are mostly a triumph of marketing over technology.
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This is a real pain in the A when you want the greater charge current to be the primary charge source. Someone needs to design a single charge reg that combines all source currents and feeds that as a single regulated output.
The batteries resistance dictates charge acceptance and ohms law would cause a higher current if available to be the primary source.
You could easily combine multiple different output voltages into a single static output voltage using buck boost regulators and feed the single regulated voltage to a single Mttp controller that could handle the combined amperage. I would exclude a wind generator from this though.
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So glad i just paid $300 in fees
Is Black Panther going to be entering in some rum races?
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Yachties are a soft target, not a lot of cohesion amongst them, for reference look at this forum,
;-(Regional council have no jurisdiction over commercial marine activities. So can only pick on recreational water users.
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What a joke. I read that an individual female fan worm produces 50,000 eggs. When are they going to give up and leave us alone?
Probably not until there is a well written email/letter to someone in the media, that picks up the story and runs with it. A half decent journalist will rip their reasoning apart with simple questioning.
Is there a wordsmith/spin doctor in the forum with contacts?
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My concern is that your are replacing one set or arbitrary requirements with a new set of arbitrary requirements. And these ones are likely to have a number of unintended consequences (more so than the current lot). Firstly the obvious question around a pathway for gaining experience. Then, the likelihood of taking large numbers of semi competent crew just to meet the criteria, as opposed to crew who work well together and can actually deal with problems. And the obvious disadvantage of solo and short handed crew (i.e. the majority of cruisers, going as couples etc).
I believe the fundamental problem is a prescriptive list of requirements. If you applied modern risk management protocols to it, the regs and outcomes would be entirely different. People have commented that the inspection itself is of value (i.e. an independent separate set of eyes). The complaints are around costs, the arbitrary nature of the requirements, and often the lack of relevance to a particular situation.
An effective risk based approach would look something like the following -
YNZ outline topic headings that must be addressed. The skipper can address them in any way they see fit. The overall boat / skipper / crew combo has an assessment via the current inspector arrangements.
Example risk topics are:
Fire
Lost comms
Damaged rudder
Sudden ingress of water
Lost mast
MoB
Navigation competency
etc.
The onus is put on the skipper to determine what is required, and then demonstrate that. I initially envisaged a written type document (similar to a Standard operating procedures manual or an H&S risk assessment) but to be honest, it is probably more value with the inspector doing it verbally, on the basis that topic headings are known beforehand, and there is a clearly identified outcomes. This way better solutions can be arrived at by interaction with the inspector and skipper.
Examples of this could be "skipper has considered night nav, including with boat wide power outage", instead of "thou shall carry a hand held compass"...This option gives the viking in you the opportunity to state that you will just steer by the Pole Star, as you do anyway, or your tablet based digital accelerometer compass unit on your smart phone, if your a tech geek kind of guy. i.e. solutions that suit the type of skipper and type of boat, and closely match the specific situation.
The key advantage here is it forces the skipper to consider their own set up, what they would do, and take ownership of it. It allows for situation specific outcomes, and allows for innovation and accommodates advancing tech. It will probably scare the crap out of bureaucrats, because it doesn't give a nice prescriptive arse covering but invisible protective coat.
In short, YNZ prescribe the outcomes required, not the gear carried etc. The trick will be in avoiding too much paperwork to make the system work. Ideally, YNZ's topic headings wouldn't be more than 1 page or risk areas on a boat.
I find it very hard to fault this post. So.... +1
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With your IT background, If you can do coding you will find work easily without a base.
Tef-gel or?
in TechTalk
Posted
So I have acquired some stainless mast steps that are in great condition, that I want to install on my aluminium mast. I had planned to use Monel rivets [happy for other suggestions] and my questions was....should I use some tefgel on the rivets or something similar? My second and similar question....should I use some tefgel or similar on stainless nut and bots on the new anode I will be sticking on my shaft?
Tips and alternative ideas are welcome.