mcp

No question, use Butyl tape and counter sink the holes a little and wrap a small amount around the top end of the threads before insertion. Tighten 90% and re-tighten/torque a week later. I have never had a leak with butyl tape. https://www.premiertapes.co.nz/butyl-tape-gp/

Nope, the MD2030 [like all the MD engines] is a perkins marine conversion based on a Shibaura engine. The 753 block first appeared in the 80's.

Why not 2 x large 12v AGMs? Much less hassle than flooded. Or even Lead Carbon?

Let me know if you need other parts as I have a list of a ton of interchangeable parts between all the manufacturers I mentioned above.

You can still use this in a LiFePo4 system to charge the start battery in a lot of circumstances. What matters is that they share the same end voltage and use a isolator.

There are many many different types of lithium batteries available, just stating that they are all bad in a sweeping statement doesn't make much sense. The battery types they are quoting are lithium polymer batteries, these have massive current draw capacity...I have seen Lithium polymer capable of a 100c discharge and have some of the highest energy v weight densities avalible...which is why they are in aircraft...But this amazing performance comes at a cost of them being extremely volatile and cell balance needs to be perfect. But they won't just catch on fire, something in the system n

Z158 from ryco. That engine is a Perkins 103-10, Perkins m30, Shibaura 753, ford 1220 tractor, new holland 1440 tractor, caterpillar 3001, it's found in hustler lawn mowers, bobcats, northern lights generators, refrigerated shipping containers. Very very common engine.

What type of boat are you building? Money no object, no question, Lithium titanate for any purpose. Otherwise for a cruiser/liveaboard Lithium Iron Phosphate or Lead carbon from a reputable manufacturer, and why I don't say one or the other, is because it depends on how you will use it. If you cruise only 3 - 4 weeks a year I would say a quality AGM, as it will take you a bloody long time to use 400-500 cycles if you system is set up correctly. If you are a racer and want super light, your boat can be setup as light as your chequebook wants it to be.

Nice timing sneaking into Milford Sound before the weather peaked!

Thats not totally correct. The first battery in your links above, the Narada has a cycle voltage of 13.8v and float of 13.5v @25 degress C on the spec sheet in the image, That will require a charge controler that is set up with custom charge profile, by someone that knows what they are doing. I would highly recommend a temp sensor if you went down this path. If you just want a good AGM then you are looking for a AGM deep cycle battery that weights a lot for its capacity. It's hard to get away from the physics with lead acid chemistry, this is a area where there are no free lunche

I agree its a brilliant technology and perfect in a lot of cases Lead carbon is very hard to go past and I was on the fence with my battery purchase between those and LiFePo4. The biggest issue with Lead Carbon is the charge requirements of the technology are less forgiving than LiFePo4, but also they quite specialized....no issue if you have a infinitly variable controller like a Victron smartsolar for example. However, the voltage drop when loaded with medium to high loads in 'MY' case was not going to be acceptable. If you are not going to run big inverters or winches or other high

LiFePo4 doesn't need temp sensors per cell. Below 0 degree Celsius you generally should not charge them or you will risk the formation on dendrites. You might have confussed that with AGM and other lead acid variants that should have temp compensation built in to their charging algorithms. Your other points are not well founded either to be honest...As there are huge charge efficiency advantages with this chemistry, it is vastly safer that flooded lead acid, Much higher discharge rates of efficiency and ability. There are many boats now running electric galleys using these batteries

I second this recommendation and you will find this in the cheapest of Pak'n'Save disinfectants as the active ingredient. I spray my boat, path, deck, roof, etc with it and it works perfectly from a pressure spray mixed 50/50. Takes a week or so to work.....much longer in summer. https://www.paknsaveonline.co.nz/product/5231715_ea_000pns?name=lavender-disinfectant

I don't have one, but these would be seatalk or Nmea compatable...there are many displays that would also work or is there a specific reason why you want these ones?

Hmmm, I suspect someone didn't fuse their wiring or some other act of stupidity near something combustible....or they actually had a cobalt/manganese variety of Lithium Ion, which has a electrolyte that is a hydrocarbon. The reason why companies like Tesla are moving to LiFePo4 are because they don't got into thermal run away and almost impossible to catch on fire. Yes I can measure this? Is this what you are asking? You are being rather vague in my interpretation of your post sorry?

Anyone that has charges this type of chemistry through a shunt with a coulomb counter can verify these are about 99% or more efficient. This post was not intended to be a tutorial or a how to in any way. While these batteries are far far more forgiving than most people say, these are not drop in replacements and require a certain level of knowledge to set up and manage. These are not set and forget and certainly not she'll be right, I know what im doing setup. I saying all that, I'm not sure how you would loose your boat if these failed, you would certainly loose yo

These are CATL cells, ex china. I will be using Victron MPPT chargers, Mastervolt smart reg.

I have a BMS that was less about $90 usd and the chargers I am using have a relay control.

If you are interested in the size differences and electrical differences of lithium Iron Phosphate and Lead Acid AGM batteries, I have started to put my battery compartment together this weekend. On the left is a Vision FM100 AGM battery, 100ah @ 12v nominal, which is my start battery [currently running the fridge and lights] and on the right are 12 x 150ah LiFePo4 cells, 450ah @ 12v nominal. On the left the AGM weight is 32kgs and on the right the LiFePo4 pack weights all up 34kgs. On the left we have 30ah usable @ the recommended 30% depth of discharge and on the right w

A three pin flasher is + and output + and also - . if you chassis ground with - & connect to - pin on flasher unit, then + on flasher unit with output + going to light fitting you can test without motor going. Make sure the bike ignition is turned on.

Ahh...its for a flasher unit, I would just swap out the flasher unit like IT mentioned above, otherwise go back to incandescent lights...You are not lowering the load by adding the load resistors. Unless the goal is a different look or something?

What type of light is this? And what does it do? What are the specs or do you have a link to the LED you have replaced it with? I ask as I suspect if might be a capacitance issue or maybe just a bad contact? If you are certain you need a load resistor, then based on a 10watt/12v globe, the resistance you are after is 14.5ohms. But that doesn't make sense at all because, why would you just throw away current as heat? when you are trying to save it by using a LED bulb?

https://www.samsung.com/uk/business/rugged-range/

If you have access to an oscilloscope and can use one? you could test it's output and input. There will be a common ground and a input signal with a AC signal that the unit is rated for ie; 50kHz, 80kHz, 200kHz, 235kHz, etc. The output signal will be similar frequency but the amplitude will vary a lot. If you have a frequency generator handy as well we can measure the impedance magnitude and series resistance. Those two figures should be very close if the transducer is working mechanically correct. But. You could also check that its output is working by turning it on briefly a

How tight of a radius could you do? I need to cut two 190 mm round holes.