mcp

https://www.mecca.co.nz/Products/Marine-Hardware/Fairleads/

No question, use Butyl tape and counter sink the holes a little and wrap a small amount around the top end of the threads before insertion. Tighten 90% and re-tighten/torque a week later. I have never had a leak with butyl tape. https://www.premiertapes.co.nz/butyl-tape-gp/

Nope, the MD2030 [like all the MD engines] is a perkins marine conversion based on a Shibaura engine. The 753 block first appeared in the 80's.

Why not 2 x large 12v AGMs? Much less hassle than flooded. Or even Lead Carbon?

Let me know if you need other parts as I have a list of a ton of interchangeable parts between all the manufacturers I mentioned above.

You can still use this in a LiFePo4 system to charge the start battery in a lot of circumstances. What matters is that they share the same end voltage and use a isolator.

There are many many different types of lithium batteries available, just stating that they are all bad in a sweeping statement doesn't make much sense. The battery types they are quoting are lithium polymer batteries, these have massive current draw capacity...I have seen Lithium polymer capable of a 100c discharge and have some of the highest energy v weight densities avalible...which is why they are in aircraft...But this amazing performance comes at a cost of them being extremely volatile and cell balance needs to be perfect. But they won't just catch on fire, something in the system n

Z158 from ryco. That engine is a Perkins 103-10, Perkins m30, Shibaura 753, ford 1220 tractor, new holland 1440 tractor, caterpillar 3001, it's found in hustler lawn mowers, bobcats, northern lights generators, refrigerated shipping containers. Very very common engine.

What type of boat are you building? Money no object, no question, Lithium titanate for any purpose. Otherwise for a cruiser/liveaboard Lithium Iron Phosphate or Lead carbon from a reputable manufacturer, and why I don't say one or the other, is because it depends on how you will use it. If you cruise only 3 - 4 weeks a year I would say a quality AGM, as it will take you a bloody long time to use 400-500 cycles if you system is set up correctly. If you are a racer and want super light, your boat can be setup as light as your chequebook wants it to be.

Nice timing sneaking into Milford Sound before the weather peaked!

Thats not totally correct. The first battery in your links above, the Narada has a cycle voltage of 13.8v and float of 13.5v @25 degress C on the spec sheet in the image, That will require a charge controler that is set up with custom charge profile, by someone that knows what they are doing. I would highly recommend a temp sensor if you went down this path. If you just want a good AGM then you are looking for a AGM deep cycle battery that weights a lot for its capacity. It's hard to get away from the physics with lead acid chemistry, this is a area where there are no free lunche

I agree its a brilliant technology and perfect in a lot of cases Lead carbon is very hard to go past and I was on the fence with my battery purchase between those and LiFePo4. The biggest issue with Lead Carbon is the charge requirements of the technology are less forgiving than LiFePo4, but also they quite specialized....no issue if you have a infinitly variable controller like a Victron smartsolar for example. However, the voltage drop when loaded with medium to high loads in 'MY' case was not going to be acceptable. If you are not going to run big inverters or winches or other high

LiFePo4 doesn't need temp sensors per cell. Below 0 degree Celsius you generally should not charge them or you will risk the formation on dendrites. You might have confussed that with AGM and other lead acid variants that should have temp compensation built in to their charging algorithms. Your other points are not well founded either to be honest...As there are huge charge efficiency advantages with this chemistry, it is vastly safer that flooded lead acid, Much higher discharge rates of efficiency and ability. There are many boats now running electric galleys using these batteries

I second this recommendation and you will find this in the cheapest of Pak'n'Save disinfectants as the active ingredient. I spray my boat, path, deck, roof, etc with it and it works perfectly from a pressure spray mixed 50/50. Takes a week or so to work.....much longer in summer. https://www.paknsaveonline.co.nz/product/5231715_ea_000pns?name=lavender-disinfectant

I don't have one, but these would be seatalk or Nmea compatable...there are many displays that would also work or is there a specific reason why you want these ones?