Frank
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Posts posted by Frank
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3 hours ago, marinheiro said:
If you have a close look at your solenoid you will most likely find it is made by Bosch or one of the other big OEM suppliers. Should be able to find one that does not have a "green" price.
Good call, the update is the solenoid is confirmed as US, it remains "Sticky" even after some freeing, I reckon something has failed inside. Its a Shibura Motor so that will be the first search thread, I wont even bother looking up Volvo.
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Fush and Chups should be banned by the Guvmint
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This is a good watch and unlike my observations has a scientific basis
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Well, I was being sightly facetious naturally
I have heard of crays at Waiheke but have never looked, and probably wont, any cray alive on that coast today deserves a gong and should be left well alone. Seen some scallops at Hooks a few years back but the bed looked sparse, I've never bothered as there is a healthy bed nearby (for now)
Maybe in time the mussel farm will help with Schnapper breeding stocks, the ones at Fitzroy seem well occupied with fat specimens. My totally unscientific observations from diving around the gulf is that Crayfish seem a rather hardy species that if left alone will proliferate quickly, they seem to need the sea weed cover though.
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19 hours ago, harrytom said:
Came in to effect today. All for preserving our Kaimoana but unless Govt/Fisheries sign off it is unenforceable.
This imo is the start of very dangerous slippery slope. Everytime that IWI thinks a particular part of the coast needs protecting will the GOVT agree and sign off??
Is it the start of IWI control of foreshore/seabed.
Yes some parts need protecting/closure and certain species are in a collapsed state.
I hear your concerns but frankly sometimes it feels like "If not them then who ? MPI are hopeless. You want to see the fish life in Deep Water Cove due to the 2 year Rahui.
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15 hours ago, ex Elly said:
Yes there is now a rahui on Waiheke. You cannot take mussels, scallops, paua or crayfish.
Also a new rahui at Opito Bay, you cannot take scallops.
Wait ! there are mussels, scallops and Paua on Waiheke ?
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7 hours ago, lateral said:
Just checked my OEM Yanmar mixing elbow (new 2015) just starting to show scale on junction with mount plate.
Time to fit HDI one.
Ours arrived last week and we are very pleased, the DHL shipping was fast with regular email updates right to the front door. Its a shame they don't make Volvo D1-20 stop solenoids LOL.
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20 hours ago, AJ Oliver said:
All in good fun . . . There are a myriad of sailing dreams out there.
Glad Ms. Hill is making her's come true
Oh yes all jokes aside, the Junk rig has its place, a relative did a 7 year world cruise on a Junk Rigged boat and very successfully too !. He rigged a forestay on the otherwise free standing mast and had a small Jib which helped with going to windward.
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On 26/01/2021 at 5:40 PM, AJ Oliver said:
What's it rate ??
It rates under the old IOR rule, (Inordinately Odd Rig.)
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On 21/01/2021 at 9:11 AM, Fogg said:
Yes you have to be really careful around that point. And the problem I’ve found there (and other similar spots) is that over-familiarisation over many years can easily leave to over-complacency. Not saying that’s what happened here but I know I’ve given myself a few ‘wake up calls’ over the years despite being in home waters! 😳
Guilty as charged sir ! there is another nasty isolated brick in a rocky cove just around the corner towards the SW. I hit it many years ago in my old 1/4 tonner I was motoring out of the cove and seemed well out into open water when BANG ! . The stern lifted 3 ft clear (as witnessed by another boat) and my wife did a flying dive thru the companion way. Luckily we were not at full throttle as I was just about to wind the twist grip full open when we hit. It was a low overcast and near sunset with a spring low tide, as I reached over the stern for the throttle I looked down and some reptilian part of my brain said " I think that's a rock" another part said it was a trick of the light, that flashed through my brain in about 1/2 a second before we hit. Even though we were doing maybe 4 knots it felt like the keel had been torn right off, I frantically jumped over the shocked missus and tore up the floorboards to find no gaping hole or gushing water. the next day I dived and found a big gouge in the keel tip and a fracture in the dead wood, both easily repaired. Later my wife showed me the isolated little cross on the chart, it was totally my bad but luckily there were no injuries except to my pride. I must dive on that rock one day, probably filled with crays.
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You also need to have a decent butane torch and some unmelted lead to use as the lead cools. This is due to shrinkage causing a cavity at the top, you keep that bit ,melted with the torch and fill it with the remaining lead until you have a level top surface.
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I have a Volvo D1-20 Diesel with 30 hrs on the clock, It was new in the crate from 2010 and I purchased it from the owner of an unfinished project so I don't think the warranty is valid. This weekend it was cranking fine but would not start . I found there was fuel going the HP pump OK but none coming out, when I press the stop button there is no audible click from the stop solenoid mounted on the back of the HP pump. I'm assuming the solenoid is locked in the stop position thus shutting off any fuel flow. I will get down to the boat in the next day or so and see if there is 12V to the solenoid with ignition on, I think this is the first thing. The wiring from the solenoid goes to the MDI black box so who knows whats going on in that unit but there doesn't seem to be any fuse in the wring diagram. The agents say the stop solenoid is independent of the MDI. These MDI units are known to fault but apparently when that happens the engine just wont crank at all and basically the whole shebang is dead, ie instruments and everything.
Any help would be appreciated, particularly from those who have a D1 series motor, for info the engine core is a Shibaura (Japanese)
Chrs !
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On 24/01/2021 at 7:35 PM, Kick Ass said:
A trip to Tauranga to pickup wouldn't be an issue if the price was right.
1.3 Tonnes is not that heavy you should be able to move that with a half decent trailer and your mates ute.
A few years back I had a 1000 kg keel cast to replace an old concrete and steel punchings one which was useless but weighed the same when out of the water. I took the old one to the tip with my dodgy garden trailer and a 1300 cc car with no problem.
later I considered casting a Carpenter 29 keel myself but after hearing all the horror stories of DIY casting gone wrong I paid Terry Bailey to cast it. Yes it was expensive (even then) but it was worth it.
For DIY I was told to use an old steel or cast iron bath tub to hold the lead and just firewood underneath for heat. The plug trim was to be removed and replaced with an all metal valve of some sort. Any plastic or solder in the assembly would melt with possibly disastrous results .There should be a steel pipe leading to the mould.
The C29 mould was made of reinforced plaster (like plaster of paris) and I was told to bury it in a slit trench with lots of sand packed around it and two coats of house paint on the outside as a moisture barrier. Any moisture in the mould results in some sort of steam eruption, .... not good !. If you are using a steel mould it must be preheated or it will buckle but it does not need to be buried. To make a plaster mould you first need to make a wooden plug.
I'm sure these days there are lots of you Tube videos on this but my mate tried to cast a 3000 kg keel in an old bath tub where unbeknown to him the plug trim was soldered in. When the lead melted the trim came free and floated to the top, resulting in all the lead roaring off into the farmers paddock mixing with grass and cow sh*t. Two weeks of chopping it up with an axe and a chain saw and they had another go and all was well. The owner of the outfit that cast my 1000 kg keel said guys used to turn up with a trailer load of chopped lead mixed with grass, cowshit, gravel and/or dirt , saying "please can you cast my keel"
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The expelled raw water should inject on the downhill side of the riser like the diagram in this link (https://www.sbmar.com/articles/the-benefits-of-fresh-water-flushing-your-marine-diesel-engine/) In my opinion there should not be pooled water anywhere near the riser after engine shutdown, if there is then I'm sure its going to cause problems.
I agree with Fish that using off the shelf components is a good option but clearly they must be sized for your engine and the assembled configuration suitable for your installation. I'm sure most technicians will give you appropriate advice when purchasing from them, but its all on the web as well.
The reason I fabricated my own was that Volvo wanted $800 for a lousy cast iron mixer elbow for a 20 Hp engine ! A part that I knew from bitter experience would not be particularly durable. Stainless steel will not last forever either (crevice corrosion) but It should significantly outlast cast iron. The ANZOR fittings I used were cast SS which I think should outlast Seamed Pipe. ( I don't trust the seam) .
I melted my plastic muffler twice and in both cases it was because someone forgot to open the raw water intake valve ! Otherwise it never gave rouble so long as raw water was being injected into the the elbow. It caused the engine no harm as it melted way before before the engine over-temp sensor triggered. You are left with a filthy mess to clean up in the engine bay and the engine is inop until you replace the muffler box.
If time is on your side and you suffer from technical OCD use monel or inconel, it will out last the engine.
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I agree with Harry Tom, whatever you decide on avoid welding dissimilar metals., try and use a bolted flange where Cast Iron meets Stainless Steel.
I have fabricated exhaust elbows using threaded pipe elbows, nipples and such from ANZOR, they were in expensive, the range is huge.
A local fabricator welded the seams once assembled, the flanges were laser cut, good luck !
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Something else to be aware of is that the condition of the sails, a sailmaker will give you an opinion.
I had a mate who was close to buying a boat but the engine oil analysis showed a high moisture content and I think sodium (salt) so that might be worth doing as well.
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Something else to be aware of is that the condition of the sails, a sailmaker will give you an opinion.
I had a mate who was close to buying a boat but the engine oil analysis showed a high moisture content and I think sodium (salt) so that might be worth doing as well.
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Many years back a jetski went thru the side of a moored Towson 32 at Little bucks, made a very large hole, as I recall the rider was not badly injured. The actual owner then scarpered with jet ski in tow before the feds arrived.
If you think we have problems in Florida they take them on the freeway !
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Check this out its more boat on jet Ski than boat on boat but the AC 75 sounds like a jet engine
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For the tech geeks amongst you this analysis of the issues for team INEOS is fascinating, Ken Reads insights are quire thought provoking.
Hopefully I'm not breaching any protocols here.
https://www.sail-world.com/news/234275/Rigs-and-Remedies-How-can-INEOS-Team-UK-improve
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On 2/01/2021 at 9:11 PM, Sabre said:
One or two sails with someone experienced will give you the basics and from there it is just a matter of building your own experience and confidence. Practice reefing and give plenty of thought to contingency plans for various scenarios.
If you have the right aptitude and enough free time you could be "fair weather" coastal cruising in no time at all.
Buy a well prepared boat or be prepared to spend significant time and money preparing it yourself. When you are on your own you really need everything to work as it should or your confidence will be rattled.
I grew up dinghy sailing but had only been sailing on a keeler once before buying my own and sailing it solo from Whangarei back to Tauranga. In the 2.5 years since I have done about a thousand coastal miles all singlehanded.
Good advice from Sabre and just as important is knowing your boat, for me I have found this takes two to three seasons of regular cruising. By that I mean the way it sails together with all of its features and systems. Often you get to know a system best by fixing it when it breaks or malfunctions but you don't want to be doing that in a blow on a lee shore ! I have cruised the gulf and Northland coast for many years but I'm always a little jealous of new converts since you have the promise of discovering all those places anew for the first time ! take care.
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There is an NZ 41 or 42 on the tamaki river near the PYBC, I chatted to the owner briefly the other night, she is in fairly good condition by the look of her. He said the design was the basis of the Jim Young 43
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On 17/12/2020 at 6:27 PM, CarpeDiem said:
Gravity stops the water going up the riser. The water is pushed out the exhaust pipe. Because the exhaust riser is above the exhaust and inlet system.
Essentially then if there is any risk of the raw water system being submerged have an anti siphon loop (ASL) between the pump and the heat exchanger as well as an exhaust riser.
The ASL prevents a siphon effect creating undesirable raw water flow when sufficiently heeled. The Exhaust riser prevents the engine being flooded should water fill the exhaust from either issue ie
(a) A siphon effect as mentioned above or,
(b) Elevated pressure from very high sailing speeds forcing water circulation, which is presumably only a worry for fast multihulls.
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On 17/12/2020 at 10:33 PM, CarpeDiem said:
A picture is in order.... So long as the exhaust riser is above the exhaust system at all heel/pitch angles the raw water cannot get back into the exhaust outlet.
Some boats have a valve on the exhaust. Closing that could cause the water to come back up the exhaust riser.
Yep, I can see how that would work
Exhaust manifold & mixer
in TechTalk
Posted
I should add that I reinstalled it with the core retracted so the motor is back on line we just stop it with the mechanical cutoff lever for now, at lease we can go cruising again